I'm installing my pistons rings, and they seem to be a little bit out of spec of what the helms says.

1st/top ring measures out at .018in. and the second ring at .022in. The helms says .006-.012in. for the top and .012in.-.018in. for the second. Do you think it'll be okay to run it at these measurements.

I used a feeler gauge. This is for my D16z6 using new stock size pistons w/ nippon pis. rings on stock bore with a new hone.


Modified by methos713 at 11:56 PM 9/4/2007


Modified by methos713 at 11:57 PM 9/4/2007

 

nobody's ever done ring gap measurements? I'm sure some builders here don't just slap on the rings and have a go.

 

Never done an OEM rebuild before. I have a y8 w/ CP pistons and I went with .018/.020. Then again CP's are high expansion pistons - I'm not sure how that comes into play.

 

I'm using nippon pistons and rings.

 

You should be good with those gaps.

 

I was thinking I should be okay. Anyone else?

 

Those are very large gaps for an NA motor!! I wouldn't run a gap that large, it probably wouldn't make much of a difference but you might lose some compression. On a 12:1 d16a6 with SRPs and a 75.5mm bore I used:

Top: 0.015"
2nd: 0.016"
oil: 0.030" +

These were hand filed rings, I did each cylinder the same. Some guys have even told me that my gaps were large-ish. Motor has great compression and power.

 

Initially, I thought the gap might be large, so I call Hastings Tech support and they said it would be ok.

 

make for SURE that you have the ring squared up in the bore. you will be fine with those gaps but like stated above they could be tighter. i would have probably gone with something around .010 and .014 on that bore with those pistons.

 

 

is it safe to take the pistons back out once you've already installed it into the cylinders? Some of your responses makes me want to recheck it. Better now then later when its already running.

 

yes, you can take them out and reinstall them. just be careful taking the rings off the pistons and also make sure you have them clocked approprietly upon reinstallation.

 

how are you checking the end gaps? Your method may be faulted.

 

I'm using a feeler gauge and following what the helms says.

 

are you using the piston to push the ring half way down the cylinder so you know its in there flush? could be cocked is why your getting a reading like that..


EDIT: dammit.. i did it again... posted on an old thread..

 

did you have the cylinder walls to make sure they are in spec for ''out of round".
that may cause some variance. if they checked out then i would run with what you got