foolin' obd 2 ecu ???
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: OuterSpace
foolin' obd 2 ecu ???
i had this thread on the fi section but i also wabted to see if you guys could help!
ok i don't have a honda so i can't use crome, hondata and whatever other kind of ecu management honda has so i need to "fool" my ecu into thinking that everything is ok with the fuel trims on my toyota since i'm going turbo.
the ecu will need to see a good mixture a/f(14.7:1) so it doesn't go into limp mode or tries to lean out the fuel when adding boost. now the qestion is how can i do this?
i saw the o2 sensor simulators but the only ones i was able to find were only for the secondary o2 sensor to fool the ecu into thinking that the cat. converter is working properlly, just in case you have a bad one or a test pipe.
i need both o2 sensors simulated for the ecu to see a perfect working engine and then add the fuel with the piggyback computer(emanage, yeah i know you hate).
so does anyone know how i can do such a thing?
ok i don't have a honda so i can't use crome, hondata and whatever other kind of ecu management honda has so i need to "fool" my ecu into thinking that everything is ok with the fuel trims on my toyota since i'm going turbo.
the ecu will need to see a good mixture a/f(14.7:1) so it doesn't go into limp mode or tries to lean out the fuel when adding boost. now the qestion is how can i do this?
i saw the o2 sensor simulators but the only ones i was able to find were only for the secondary o2 sensor to fool the ecu into thinking that the cat. converter is working properlly, just in case you have a bad one or a test pipe.
i need both o2 sensors simulated for the ecu to see a perfect working engine and then add the fuel with the piggyback computer(emanage, yeah i know you hate).
so does anyone know how i can do such a thing?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 12,176
Likes: 2
From: Tucson, AZ
Re: foolin' obd 2 ecu ??? (joey1320)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joey1320 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had this thread on the fi section but i also wabted to see if you guys could help!
ok i don't have a honda so i can't use crome, hondata and whatever other kind of ecu management honda has so i need to "fool" my ecu into thinking that everything is ok with the fuel trims on my toyota since i'm going turbo.
the ecu will need to see a good mixture a/f(14.7:1) so it doesn't go into limp mode or tries to lean out the fuel when adding boost. now the qestion is how can i do this?
i saw the o2 sensor simulators but the only ones i was able to find were only for the secondary o2 sensor to fool the ecu into thinking that the cat. converter is working properlly, just in case you have a bad one or a test pipe.
i need both o2 sensors simulated for the ecu to see a perfect working engine and then add the fuel with the piggyback computer(emanage, yeah i know you hate).
so does anyone know how i can do such a thing?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
your AFR at idle/part throttle should remain relatively unchanged. your o2 sensors only have an affect on those times. wide open throttle USUALLY does not use any inputs from your o2 sensors. i say usually because i dont know toyota, but for the most part cars under heavy load run in open loop, not closed.
ok i don't have a honda so i can't use crome, hondata and whatever other kind of ecu management honda has so i need to "fool" my ecu into thinking that everything is ok with the fuel trims on my toyota since i'm going turbo.
the ecu will need to see a good mixture a/f(14.7:1) so it doesn't go into limp mode or tries to lean out the fuel when adding boost. now the qestion is how can i do this?
i saw the o2 sensor simulators but the only ones i was able to find were only for the secondary o2 sensor to fool the ecu into thinking that the cat. converter is working properlly, just in case you have a bad one or a test pipe.
i need both o2 sensors simulated for the ecu to see a perfect working engine and then add the fuel with the piggyback computer(emanage, yeah i know you hate).
so does anyone know how i can do such a thing?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
your AFR at idle/part throttle should remain relatively unchanged. your o2 sensors only have an affect on those times. wide open throttle USUALLY does not use any inputs from your o2 sensors. i say usually because i dont know toyota, but for the most part cars under heavy load run in open loop, not closed.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Westerly, RI, USA
on most newer obd2 toyota's the front bank o2 is a wideband set up from the factory, this has been a horrific issue for me on my shop truck (02 tacoma 3.4l sc'ed) no matter what I have done the afr through the entire rpm range, light throttle or wot, the afr stays at a constant 14.5,
not knowing the vehicle model all I can say is look into Unichip, that was the only company I could find that would allow for fuel and timing control (for my truck) and may be the only company that is making anything for your vehicle (unless it is a tacoma)
my big issue with the Unichip is that is can only be tuned by a Unichip dealer and is not end user tunable...which is unacceptable for me because I am not willing to become a dealer and why would I bring it somewhere else to tune it when I have a dyno in house!
the only other thing that I have tried was to make a voltage "clamp" so that the ecu was only able to see the o2 voltage for 14.5 afr, but as of yet I have been unsuccessful in making that work, so unless there is a way to go back to obd1 I think your stuck with the Unichip option
not knowing the vehicle model all I can say is look into Unichip, that was the only company I could find that would allow for fuel and timing control (for my truck) and may be the only company that is making anything for your vehicle (unless it is a tacoma)
my big issue with the Unichip is that is can only be tuned by a Unichip dealer and is not end user tunable...which is unacceptable for me because I am not willing to become a dealer and why would I bring it somewhere else to tune it when I have a dyno in house!
the only other thing that I have tried was to make a voltage "clamp" so that the ecu was only able to see the o2 voltage for 14.5 afr, but as of yet I have been unsuccessful in making that work, so unless there is a way to go back to obd1 I think your stuck with the Unichip option
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