GM Synchromesh Tranni Fluid
i remember reading something about using GM Synchromesh Tranni Fluid to fix the grinding when gear shifting ... can someone who has tried this comment on this ... thx
GW
GW
hmmm i've heard mixed reactions when it comes to redline. Some people said that the prelude trannies need some friction and that the redline is too smooth. I've stuck with honda MTF but i still get a 5th gear grind when i shift at higher RPMs.... has anyone here tried that GM stuff?
i remember reading something about using GM Synchromesh Tranni Fluid to fix the grinding when gear shifting ... can someone who has tried this comment on this ... thx
GW
GW
just to verify ... this GM Synchromesh stuff is ok to put into my 97 prelude SH?? ... into my transmission?? ... thx for the responses ...
GW
GW
so is this ok to put in an SH? my friend is starting to get that damn 3rd gear grind, and i wanted to make sure this is ok. i dont know if it has any affect on the atts or anything else, preludes not my area of expertise.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
yes it's fine.
make sure you get the regular syncromesh and not the friction modified or whatever.
people say good things about, i'll prob throw it in when i take out the tranny this week.
make sure you get the regular syncromesh and not the friction modified or whatever.
people say good things about, i'll prob throw it in when i take out the tranny this week.
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From: Tampa, FL YAY and Mystic/Groton, CT BOO, USA
I heard mixed reviews about using this, saying that it'll really only make big differences in GM trannies. Regular tranny fluid already has additives in it, this stuff thins the fluid out even more.
Damnit, I was at a shop yesterday and the guy was explaining exactly why the gears grind and said that adding this wouldn't help it because the gearing is already fucked up from when the driver powershifts.
When powershifting, its okay to pull it out of gear w/o using the clutch but its when the driver tries to put jam it in the next gear w/o that really hurts it; making the spacing between the synchros more farther apart, making it harder for it to go into the right gear and thats what causes the grindage.
he said that the best way to fix this problem is to have a shop take out the tranny and look at it. don't low ball and put in fluid meant for other cars in.
Damnit, I was at a shop yesterday and the guy was explaining exactly why the gears grind and said that adding this wouldn't help it because the gearing is already fucked up from when the driver powershifts.
When powershifting, its okay to pull it out of gear w/o using the clutch but its when the driver tries to put jam it in the next gear w/o that really hurts it; making the spacing between the synchros more farther apart, making it harder for it to go into the right gear and thats what causes the grindage.
he said that the best way to fix this problem is to have a shop take out the tranny and look at it. don't low ball and put in fluid meant for other cars in.
the gm synchromesh isn't gonna mess anything up
mine still grinds into fifth if i'm high in the rpm band
so if i'm powershifting into fifth (which i rarely do)
i just double clutch it and it goes in smoooooth
mine still grinds into fifth if i'm high in the rpm band
so if i'm powershifting into fifth (which i rarely do)
i just double clutch it and it goes in smoooooth
GM Syncromesh is GOLD!!!! I really recommend it!!!
I have been running it for arround 2 years and i have had nothing but GREAT luck with it! It took away the 4-5th grind!!! 1st is much smoother....
GET IT AND BE HAPPY!! it is SO worth the $10.
I guess that penzoil has a "knock off" of the GM stuff... I have not tried it so i have no experience. Splurge on the oil
I have been running it for arround 2 years and i have had nothing but GREAT luck with it! It took away the 4-5th grind!!! 1st is much smoother....
GET IT AND BE HAPPY!! it is SO worth the $10.
I guess that penzoil has a "knock off" of the GM stuff... I have not tried it so i have no experience. Splurge on the oil
ok now ive read different things.... should you use gm synchromesh w/ modified friction or the regular gm synchromesh?
Hey prelude styl what do you mean by penzoil knockoff? is there another just like it that i could purchase at say.. autozone?
Thanks
Hey prelude styl what do you mean by penzoil knockoff? is there another just like it that i could purchase at say.. autozone?
Thanks
Prelude Styl is accurate in that GM synchromesh is produced by Pennziol/quakerstate. Here is a link for anyone not convinced, this link is from pennzoil/quakerstate. This stuff was designed for GM and Chrysler vehicles for complete seal compatibility. I am not conviced enough to use this stuff on an 'import' vehicle as this formula addivitives comprise seal integrity, this formula is essentially motor oil with a few additives for GM and Chrylser vehicles. Just because you can put it in your car does not make this stuff good. It is like putting power steering fluid in your honda that is for a GM, Chrysler (non-honda) it is not compatibale because of the additives it contains, and comprimises seal integrity. I am also not for Redline as this garbage accelerates synchro wear. I have seen this many times over firsthand. See the problem with Redline MTF is that the coeffiecient of friction (the friction modifier) is too high, the fluid is too thin about the same as ATF. Now if you put ATF in you MT car your tranny synchros are going to wear prematurely. The reason Redline gives the illusion that it shifts better is because the fluid is thinner than the Honda MTF. Fluid too thin and friction modified spells accelerated synchro wear, The friction modified synchro mesh lies in the same boat the redline as it is too thin and is friction modified. You are better off sticking with the OEM MTF and changing it more frquently, or simply put motor 5W30 motor oil in your tranny.
http://www.pennzoil-quakerstat...d.PDF
Modified by Gerhard_001 at 7:01 AM 11/3/2003
http://www.pennzoil-quakerstat...d.PDF
Modified by Gerhard_001 at 7:01 AM 11/3/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostindrvr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok now ive read different things.... should you use gm synchromesh w/ modified friction or the regular gm synchromesh?
Hey prelude styl what do you mean by penzoil knockoff? is there another just like it that i could purchase at say.. autozone?
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
regular
Hey prelude styl what do you mean by penzoil knockoff? is there another just like it that i could purchase at say.. autozone?
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
regular
Makes you wonder just how different the seals can be. Seems like they would use similar materials in creating transmission seals industry wide. I have seen a couple of posts from guys who have been running the synchromesh for a couple of years without any trouble.
Kwik Kar Lube & Tune here in The Colony, Texas will drain your fluid and refill it with GM Synchromesh for $35 out the door. Took the guy about ten minutes to do the whole job on my Si. Saved me from making a mess and from laying under the car. Normally a manual trans flush and refill is $25 so it's an extra $10 for the synchromesh.
Call around local lube shops to see what they charge. They buy the stuff in large quantities so it doesn't cost them $12 a quart.
Steve
90 Si
Kwik Kar Lube & Tune here in The Colony, Texas will drain your fluid and refill it with GM Synchromesh for $35 out the door. Took the guy about ten minutes to do the whole job on my Si. Saved me from making a mess and from laying under the car. Normally a manual trans flush and refill is $25 so it's an extra $10 for the synchromesh.
Call around local lube shops to see what they charge. They buy the stuff in large quantities so it doesn't cost them $12 a quart.
Steve
90 Si
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by texascivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Makes you wonder just how different the seals can be. Seems like they would use similar materials in creating transmission seals industry wide. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You would be really suprized how many differnt types of Rubber that are used for seals. I design differentials For Polaris ATV's and there are countless different types of rubber... Alot of what a manfactur choses is dependant on price.
And yes different oils are more "corrosive" than others.
You would be really suprized how many differnt types of Rubber that are used for seals. I design differentials For Polaris ATV's and there are countless different types of rubber... Alot of what a manfactur choses is dependant on price.
And yes different oils are more "corrosive" than others.
I'm no tranny expert so it would not suprise me about the seals. Sounds like you have had more experience with them than I have.
I guess the question is, how fast will this possible corrosive effect take to degrade the seals in a transmission. If were saying that a tranny seal will break down after 80k miles instead of 100k miles of use...or is it a case of the seals going bad after 10k miles???
I sent an email to Quaker State's tech group to see if they had any opinions. I'm sure they will give me the usual..."this product should only be used in GM and Chrysler products" to cover their rears.
In a situation like mine, my tranny has 125k miles and grinds in third. As I see it, my options are...live with the grind, have the tranny rebuilt, take a risk on a used tranny, or spend $25 at Kwik Kar for the GM SM.
I guess if all the seals blow out then it will be a good excuse for a rebuild.
Steve
I guess the question is, how fast will this possible corrosive effect take to degrade the seals in a transmission. If were saying that a tranny seal will break down after 80k miles instead of 100k miles of use...or is it a case of the seals going bad after 10k miles???
I sent an email to Quaker State's tech group to see if they had any opinions. I'm sure they will give me the usual..."this product should only be used in GM and Chrysler products" to cover their rears.
In a situation like mine, my tranny has 125k miles and grinds in third. As I see it, my options are...live with the grind, have the tranny rebuilt, take a risk on a used tranny, or spend $25 at Kwik Kar for the GM SM.
I guess if all the seals blow out then it will be a good excuse for a rebuild.
Steve
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gerhard_001 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Prelude Styl is accurate in that GM synchromesh is produced by Pennziol/quakerstate. Here is a link for anyone not convinced, this link is from pennzoil/quakerstate. This stuff was designed for GM and Chrysler vehicles for complete seal compatibility. I am not conviced enough to use this stuff on an 'import' vehicle as this formula addivitives comprise seal integrity, this formula is essentially motor oil with a few additives for GM and Chrylser vehicles. Just because you can put it in your car does not make this stuff good. It is like putting power steering fluid in your honda that is for a GM, Chrysler (non-honda) it is not compatibale because of the additives it contains, and comprimises seal integrity. I am also not for Redline as this garbage accelerates synchro wear. I have seen this many times over firsthand. See the problem with Redline MTF is that the coeffiecient of friction (the friction modifier) is too high, the fluid is too thin about the same as ATF. Now if you put ATF in you MT car your tranny synchros are going to wear prematurely. The reason Redline gives the illusion that it shifts better is because the fluid is thinner than the Honda MTF. Fluid too thin and friction modified spells accelerated synchro wear, The friction modified synchro mesh lies in the same boat the redline as it is too thin and is friction modified. You are better off sticking with the OEM MTF and changing it more frquently, or simply put motor 5W30 motor oil in your tranny.
http://www.pennzoil-quakerstat...d.PDF
Modified by Gerhard_001 at 7:01 AM 11/3/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's wrong about the Friction modified....it works great, just like the non-friction.
http://www.pennzoil-quakerstat...d.PDF
Modified by Gerhard_001 at 7:01 AM 11/3/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's wrong about the Friction modified....it works great, just like the non-friction.


