I just clayed my motor, and both IN and EX valves are hitting the piston in cylinder 1, I clayed cylinders 1 and 4 cause im super paranoid. Should i have the valve reliefs in the piston shaved down or have the valve seats shaved down so the valve sits higher or shave the face of the valves or what? I clayed the motor w/ the used oem H.G. which is 0.029" I have a custom cometic 0.06" on order, but still that means at the most i will only have 0.03" V2P clearance, don't you need at least 0.06" on the exhaust valves?

 

wow what ultra milled setup is that?

and btw yeah deeper valve pockets will help you. remember to check clearance for the Y axis as well not just the X... where X is the deeper and Y is the bottom of the valve relief.

 

ls crank and rods in a gsr block, itr usdm pistons, gsr head milled 0.015" block decked 0.01" who do you reccomend machine the pistons?

 

ure in CA i bet there are lots of good reputable machine shops around... mostly any machine shop can do it.

 

is it safe to remove 0.03-0.04" from the valve reliefs, is so, can i get away w/ doing it myself w/ some 120 grit wet sand paper? Would it be safe to remove 0.03-0.04"" from the valve seats?


Modified by all-mtr-teg at 1:28 PM 9/2/2007

 

i personally have never taked more than .03 out. never had a need. and i wouldnt recomend doing it yourself unless u know how to operate a milling machine and knew the correct angle to actually cut them.

and with milled heads etc the most i have seen gone wrong is the measure to the actual piston floor... not much with the actual floor of the valve relief.

 

why would only the intake valves on one cylinder be hitting the pistons? where they not installed at the correct height? All 4 pistons are 0.008" out the block but only cylinder 1 intake valves hit.

 

it can range from uneven head milling, ridiculously bad valve job to extremely bad valve lash while u clayed. try setting valve lash to 0 and retry.

 

i had valve lash to 0.07" IN and 0.08" EX

 

u should set the lash at 0

 

why do you set valve lash to 0? Don't you want them to be at the clearances that you would run them at as if the car were running?

 

when u set the last to 7,8 cold thats cause when the motor heats up every thing expands a little if it were at 0 cold imagine how it would be when it heated up. when your claying your not worried about heat and expansion u just want the lash at 0 to get the most accurate reading

 

okay, makes sense, thanks for clarifying