whats the difference between a slave cylinder and a master cylinder and a clutch release cylinder? my clutch wont disengage and when i was driving it a few dayts ago the clutch was grabbing fine it was just hard to put in gear.. now i push the pedal all the way down and it doesnt even come back up.. not to mention disengage so im pondering its something to do with the hydraulics but im reading my haynes manual and on here and im hearing all the clinders whats what and what do they do?

 

Here goes. The clutch master cylinder is next to your brake booster. It's the small one with one hydraulic line coming out of it. Omni power offers a larger bore master cylinder for about $175. This should be more effective if you plan to, or have a short shifter. I'm looking into one as I have the short shifter already. A stock master cylinder runs about $110-125, so the aftermarket (omni) master cylinder may be the way to go. From there the fluid is pushed to a clutch slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is on the transmission next to your exhaust manifold. I haven't priced one, but I'm thinking about $75. That's it, those are your hydraulic components. The master cylinder is connected through the firewall to the pedal by a special pin and cotter pin. It's bolted through the firewall with 2 nuts under the dash. IMPORTANT! Use a flange wrench (line wrench) when loosening your hydraulic fittings. If you strip one you're going to create a ton of unnecessary work for yourself. The slave cylinder is held on with 2 bolts that attach it to the transmission. Yes, you can go through tests to diagnose one or the other, but if you've got some miles, just do them both and be done with it. As for fluid, you don't need 'clutch' fluid. Manufactures con people at the gas station and put DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid in a very small container that says 'clutch fluid' and charge a bunch of money for a few ounces. Just use a brand name DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid and you'll be fine. When you've got everything together pour some fluid in the reservoir and then (using a friend) open the bleed valve (nipple) on the slave cylinder about one half of a turn. Have your friend push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold. Close the valve. Lift the pedal. Open the valve. Push the pedal to the floor and hold. Repeat until no air or sputtering fluid comes from the valve. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LET THE RESERVOIR RUN OUT OF FLUID AS YOU WILL INDUCE AIR INTO THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM AN HAVE TO START THE PROCESS ALL OVER. When you are all done start the car in neutral. Push the clutch and try to engage a gear. E-brake on please and no one/nothing in front of you for safety reasons. If it goes into gear with no issues, take it for a local test drive using all gears including reverse. If this doesn't work you may have another issue. The distance inside the transmission where the clutch assembly is located has a fairly tight clearance. I have seen part of someone's friction disc come apart and wedge itself between the rest of the disc, flywheel and pressure plate, though this is rare. They would push the pedal, all hydraulics working correctly and still the car remained in motion because this piece of the friction was joining the assemblies. Like I said, it's rare. Start with your hydraulic components and you should be fine.

 

if that doesn't help you, i don't know what will. lol.

 

RIZOBIZERT you are the ****

do you happen to know what size flare nut wrenches i'll need?


Modified by A08 at 10:43 AM 8/31/2007

 

Just a 10mm will do. Usually they come with a 10 on one side and an 8mm on the other. I use craftsman myself, they have a lifetime warranty. The bleeder on the slave is an 8mm. If you get into doing a lot of brakes, clutch bleed downs etc., you may want to invest in a vacuum bleeder. Don't get the one with a hand pump, but the real one that hooks up with compressed air, then you won't need a buddy to help you bleed the fluid.

 

i had the same problem last week. turns out my clutch fluid was all gone. dont know where it went but it wasnt in the clutch master cylinder and i couldnt find any leaks. bled the system and refilled with DOT3 fluid and that solved the problem. check that first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem last week. turns out my clutch fluid was all gone. dont know where it went but it wasnt in the clutch master cylinder and i couldnt find any leaks. bled the system and refilled with DOT3 fluid and that solved the problem. check that first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol thats what i got on here to ask lol.. you beat me to the punch.. im going to get all the stuff in a little bit.. hopefully walmart has the tool.