Okay, I have a 1990 Accord EX manual transmission. SOMETIMES, when I start the ignition, it cranks, the car shudders as the starter turns it over, engine "starts" to about 300rpms-ish, then immediately dies, after which it will not "start" at all. IT IS Cranking, so not an electrical problem as far as the starter. New distributor cap & rotor, new internal coil, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new battery, new ground wire, alternator tested at 77 amps output, regular maintenance and oil changes/air filters, I can hear all injectors clicking with the "stethoscope" method, and even if I floor it while starting, it usually will not start until I mess with it for a good 5-10 minutes, which I am sure is putting undue stress on my starter, which I will for sure end up replacing before this is over with. All I can think that that leaves is an intake issue of some sort, a fuel pressure regulator, or maybe the injectors are working but overly corroded or leaking or something, not sure, hopefully someone reading this will have a better idea so I don't have to buy all new fuel system components. Thanks for any advise!

-Ryan

 

Grabbing at straws but have you checked your clutch switch?

 

I had a mechanic tell me the clutch was fine and dandy, but he could have been wrong. Hes also the one who said that the ground wire on the battery was corroded and replacing it would stop my issues.How would I check a clutch switch? (Popping the clutch at rolling speed *sometimes* will get it to start, very forcefully however, like a vacuum that was clogged and suddenly unblocked (surges).

 

its the cold solder joints in the ecu, read up on this its a common problem. I read you can fix this easy! My accord does this from time to time, I just wait 5 min and it allways starts, knock on wood!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H2290 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Grabbing at straws but have you checked your clutch switch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It would not start period if the clutch switch was bad. The clutch switch does not allow the starter to engage.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jstall7543 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its the cold solder joints in the ecu, read up on this its a common problem. I read you can fix this easy! My accord does this from time to time, I just wait 5 min and it allways starts, knock on wood!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you referring to the main relay? That is a common problem on those Accords.

Does it shut off as soon as you release the key? If you can hold it at just the point where the starter disengages and it will stay running then it is a bad ignition switch electrical portion.

 

It shuts off regardless of key being held to the *Start* position, and doesn't always do it, just occasionally, sometimes after being off for 10 minutes, sometimes after being off all day, regardless of anything. The main relay would make sense as I have heard that is a common issue, but why would it work most of the time and only once or twice a week have the on/off problem? I am fairly certain at this point the electrical is fine, taking it to the Honda dealer soon to see if the fuel system checks out, will update accordingly hopefully they can tell me whats wrong without me having to sell a kidney to pay for it. Thanks for your advice, I will check the main relay out.

 

Coil or igniter can cause that type of problem as well, does it occur more often on hot days?

 

Yes, but I have a brand spanking new Honda coil, and the problem has been occurring since before I replaced it. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryancachilli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, I have a 1990 Accord EX manual transmission. SOMETIMES, when I start the ignition, it cranks, the car shudders as the starter turns it over, engine "starts" to about 300rpms-ish, then immediately dies, after which it will not "start" at all. IT IS Cranking, so not an electrical problem as far as the starter. New distributor cap & rotor, new internal coil, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new battery, new ground wire, alternator tested at 77 amps output, regular maintenance and oil changes/air filters, I can hear all injectors clicking with the "stethoscope" method, and even if I floor it while starting, it usually will not start until I mess with it for a good 5-10 minutes, which I am sure is putting undue stress on my starter, which I will for sure end up replacing before this is over with. All I can think that that leaves is an intake issue of some sort, a fuel pressure regulator, or maybe the injectors are working but overly corroded or leaking or something, not sure, hopefully someone reading this will have a better idea so I don't have to buy all new fuel system components. Thanks for any advise!

-Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryancachilli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, but I have a brand spanking new Honda coil, and the problem has been occurring since before I replaced it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, I overlooked coil on that list.

So is it a problem that is affected by weather? Such as occurring more on hot days?

 

Now that you mention it, it seems to occur more frequently on hot days, like 80+ although it is just now getting cold, and it has happened at night before when it was relatively cool. It also is not affected by time since last driven, as it happens sometimes after the car has been off just a few minutes, and other times it has been off for hours.

 

I've had a similar problem on my 90 accord. When you turn the key to II position (so you get the lights) do you hear a click that goes off as soon as the check engine light goes out? If you don't hear a click it's a problem with the fuel pump relay. Keep turning the key until you hear the click on then click off when the check engine light goes out... Chances are if you don't hear the relay click in, it's the fuel pump relay.

 

I just talked to a guy on JustAnswers site, he said that this symptom is almost 99% of the time the main relay. I will replace that and see if it continues to happen, hopefully not because the answer just cost me $15. HAH.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryancachilli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just talked to a guy on JustAnswers site, he said that this symptom is almost 99% of the time the main relay. I will replace that and see if it continues to happen, hopefully not because the answer just cost me $15. HAH.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it started out occurring mostly when it was hot out it is usually the main relay. Once they start getting really bad it will happen anytime but when they first start going it is normally on hot days.