air dam to cool rotor
Anyone know of any product or anyway to direct air from the front onto your rotors for extra cooling?
I know it's really not needed esp. if you're not pounding on your breaks but it would be just really cool to have and do.
Any ideas of how you would run it?
I know it's really not needed esp. if you're not pounding on your breaks but it would be just really cool to have and do.
Any ideas of how you would run it?
buy some NACA ducts and the flexible neoprene hose they sell for them, get a fitting welded into the backing plate so you can direct the air at the back of the rotor, run the hose.
Why you'd need it on a street car, is beyond me.
If the brakes are running hot, cut the backing plates off.
Why you'd need it on a street car, is beyond me.
If the brakes are running hot, cut the backing plates off.
i'm not really thinking of putting one on right now. I was just thinking how would you do it. I've seen others have a tube running from the foglight area to their intake which is rather cool looking. Get rid of all the bends you'll get a nice force of air.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DsevenEm2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">waste of time..</TD></TR></TABLE>
what's a waste of time? gathering more data to get more knowledgable?
what's a waste of time? gathering more data to get more knowledgable?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oddmut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm not really thinking of putting one on right now. I was just thinking how would you do it. I've seen others have a tube running from the foglight area to their intake which is rather cool looking. Get rid of all the bends you'll get a nice force of air.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You cant run them from the fog light holes, the frame is in the way, unless you want to drill through and then reweld the radiator support structure in.
You'd have to go outside of them, through the space in front of the wheels, the up and around the wheel well. There is very little room in there (you'd have to get between the crank pully and the frame with the line on the left, and between the tranny and the frame on the right).
I dont even need them at the track, it seems kind of silly to bother with trying to jam them in there.
You cant run them from the fog light holes, the frame is in the way, unless you want to drill through and then reweld the radiator support structure in.
You'd have to go outside of them, through the space in front of the wheels, the up and around the wheel well. There is very little room in there (you'd have to get between the crank pully and the frame with the line on the left, and between the tranny and the frame on the right).
I dont even need them at the track, it seems kind of silly to bother with trying to jam them in there.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Curiouz_G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if a evo needs em, he does
plus, we all know you drive slow justin
dave and busters proved me right
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL.
I'll say one thing, i was doing canyon runs and i burnt through my pads and warped my rotors. was driving around a constant 80-110. at the end of the run my car wasn't really slowing down. Under those conditions i could say I would use em.
I used to motocross. yes i know it's not a car and it's on dirt.
plus, we all know you drive slow justin
dave and busters proved me right
</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL.
I'll say one thing, i was doing canyon runs and i burnt through my pads and warped my rotors. was driving around a constant 80-110. at the end of the run my car wasn't really slowing down. Under those conditions i could say I would use em.
I used to motocross. yes i know it's not a car and it's on dirt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oddmut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL.
I'll say one thing, i was doing canyon runs and i burnt through my pads and warped my rotors. was driving around a constant 80-110. at the end of the run my car wasn't really slowing down. Under those conditions i could say I would use em.
I used to motocross. yes i know it's not a car and it's on dirt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get some decient pads and cut off the backing plates (dust guards), then sign up for driving school AT A TRACK. Learn how to drive and make use of the brakes, then see if you still kill them. If you drag them all the time, they'll never cool off and then yeah... you'll waste them in no time. You're really not going to be able to jam enough air through there to get them to really "cool". They cool the fastest when you're not on them.
I'll say one thing, i was doing canyon runs and i burnt through my pads and warped my rotors. was driving around a constant 80-110. at the end of the run my car wasn't really slowing down. Under those conditions i could say I would use em.
I used to motocross. yes i know it's not a car and it's on dirt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get some decient pads and cut off the backing plates (dust guards), then sign up for driving school AT A TRACK. Learn how to drive and make use of the brakes, then see if you still kill them. If you drag them all the time, they'll never cool off and then yeah... you'll waste them in no time. You're really not going to be able to jam enough air through there to get them to really "cool". They cool the fastest when you're not on them.
Ok so I'm bringing back and old thread but, I could swear I saw a white EM2 that had brake ducts made going through the fog light hole on here once. I am looking to do this because at the last track day my rotors were up around 600 degrees. I have hawk HP+ pads with brembo blanks and Valvoline synthetic fluid. The pedal was almost to the floor by the end of the day which is kind of scary. Also I dont think you can remove the backing plates for STS class autox (which is the other thing I do with my car) but I though I remember seeing you can add brake ducts.
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ToneDaBass
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