This is my brother Ian's car (typer#0427 here on HT) and for the past couple days we've been working on putting a new(somewhat built) head on. We replaced all seals, HG, VCG, etc, etc. Overall the motor has been running great besides an oil leak near the trans VIN plate. My first assumption was a bad distributor o-ring. We replaced that and the leak came back as soon as the R was fired up. It seems as though it is coming from the dist/vtec solenoid area but we cannot seem to pinpoint it.

Things checked:
VTEC solenoid filter & gasket
Dist. O-ring
Head Hex bolt
None of which seem to be the source of the leak.





There is a somewhat steady "flow" or drip while the motor is running.


*EDIT: Part is the spool valve for the vtechak solenoid. Not related to oil leak.
NEXT up is something that was sent to us with the new head in a bag full of random nuts/bolts. I didnt recognize it and neither did my brother. There was no such part on the old head that we could see. One side of it seems somewhat magnetic so my first thought was that its a pickup for some sort of sensor but I doubt it. Any ideas as to what the hell this thing is?

Heavier/"magnetic" side:




Hollow side:



Full side shot:





Some random shots:

Ian and I exhausted, tired, dirty and ready for some cold beers:



Ian wrenching:



Old head with fuct valve:



ANY help/input/advice/comments on the oil leak and mystery part is much appreciated!




Modified by TRE_ at 6:45 PM 8/29/2007

 

Well, first question, did you re-use your head bolts?
Did you check the VTEC solenoid gasket?
Cam bolts/washers/o-rings, etc?
All those things sort of leak down to the same spot.

As for your mystery part....no idea.

 

Yes, APR head bolts were re-used. They are fairly new as far as I know though. VTEC solenoid is coming off tomorrow and we will check those other things you mentioned.

Thanks for the input man

 

I believe you can safely reuse the ARP studs (studs right? not bolts?).
What did you torque them to? Theres a thread right now in Allmotor about the proper way to torque the ARP studs, ARP says 70ft lbs, but to cycle them 3-5 times.
Also remember to re-torque them after you run the motor a bit.
I'm sure my head leaks a little from re-using my stock head bolts...(they stretch).

Good luck!

 

Mystery part is the spool valve that sits below the vtec soliniod.

 

Nice ebay ITR stickers JFWY

 

Erm, I hate this most!! Oil can leak from anywhere, it's so aggravating. I can't give you any information that hasn't been posted, that I can think of. But I bought my car brand new, so either I or one other person has touched underneath the car, and he's a close friend and an ASE/Honda Certified mechanic. 4 weeks ago I found a little leak coming from the damn reverse light plug/bolt, and it never ever should have been touched in the life of the car, it dumbfounded me, it just goes to show you to check everywhere, even if it sounds stupid or doesn't make sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doespike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice ebay ITR stickers JFWY </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL, good catch. what's up with the side skirts as well, not even close to lining up? Sorry for going OT...

 

I bought a ITR head off of someone and had the same exact problem....

The guy i bought it off of was going to build a LS-VTEC, on the back of the head ( if your looking at the head on the block still in the bay ) there is a SMALL HOLE i guess for oil feed. i reposted your pic with some cheap *** editing. hope you dont mind and hope it helps. But the hole should be on the lower part of the head. its right about where the green arrow points. i meant to type something in the white box but it didnt come out.

 

Check your rocker shaft plugs (hex plugs, #1 in picture).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you check the VTEC solenoid gasket?
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My first thought.

 

in my defense, those are actually JDM DC5 Type R stickers from inline4.com. so i hope i didnt get ripped off, (doubt it)

yes the sideskirts are off, cause there used to be mugen ones on there. had to take them off cause they were fucted up.

back to my issue:

i torqued the headstuds to 65 ft/lbs, because thats what the tech on the phone said to do.

the VTEC selinoid gasket looks good to me.

and the mystery part, does that go underneath the head, or on the side.

ill definatly go check the roller arm bolts, and all other suggestions.

I appreciate the help, hopefully ill get her on the road soon. Keep the ideas coming!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highroller54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mystery part is the spool valve that sits below the vtec soliniod.</TD></TR></TABLE>
where?

also compression test results are:

#1: 190
#2: 180
#3: 180
#4: 190

so i dont think the headgasket is on wrong, but i could be totally wrong

 

My money is on the VTEC solenoid gasket.

I had an almost exact problem.

 

Screen on the spool valve gasket is full of junk or the o-ring is square.

 

mystery part is under the vtak soliniod

 

I'd imagine thats the leak then.

 

Was the head milled?

If it was, it could be the dowel pins holding the head up just enough for oil to leak through the head-gasket.

When you mill the head, you should always take as much material off of the dowel pins... Many people do not do this, and your issue is EXACTLY the consequence.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My money is on the VTEC solenoid gasket.

I had an almost exact problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Screen on the spool valve gasket is full of junk or the o-ring is square.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The solenoid gasket and filter are completley fine. No gunk or debris build up... gasket is basically brand new, no tears, rips, gaps, etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was the head milled?

If it was, it could be the dowel pins holding the head up just enough for oil to leak through the head-gasket.

When you mill the head, you should always take as much material off of the dowel pins... Many people do not do this, and your issue is EXACTLY the consequence. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm unsure as to if the head has been milled or not, but Ian and I did consider that. What you mentioned seems very plausible and is something we'll look into.

Thanks again to everyone for the replies, the ITR forum seems to be the most knowledgeable group left on HT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRE_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the ITR forum seems to be the most knowledgeable group left on HT. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Rice boys get chased out, usually. I fly under the radar.

 

How about the ever so notorious cam seal leak? did you guys put any honda bond on it before installation?

What head was installed? was it previously on a LS/V?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tONE.steR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about the ever so notorious cam seal leak? did you guys put any honda bond on it before installation?

What head was installed? was it previously on a LS/V?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


yea im not sure if you seen my post, but was it ever a LS-VTEC or supposed to be? that could be where the problem is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


yea im not sure if you seen my post, but was it ever a LS-VTEC or supposed to be? that could be where the problem is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea.

If the head was previously used on a LS/V, then the oil passage on the head would be plugged.. thats why they run the "oil line".

 

i compared the two heads once the old one was off, and they seemed to be exact in every way.

would someone be willing to post up the sequence in which the cam caps are supposed to be on.

i am assuming that you put the number pointing to its respective cylinder, but not 100% sure.

i do appreciate all the responses.

 

also would like to add that the timing belt will NOT get taut. we did the exact procedure listed in the service manual several times, but its still really loose.

to the point were we can just slide it off the gears