hey guys,

my cousin used to own an R but sold it cuz he had to move away to college. i fell in love with it and have been counting the days til i get one. well my lease is almost over and im in the process of gettin an R. well i have been wondering what setup to go with and i keep changing my mind and switchin back and forth. well i dont really care much about money, if im going to hook it up, ima do it right and get the best. the goal im looking for is daily driver, reliable as hell and i want anywhere between 200-220whp. i realize what i have planned wont get me there so please help me out guys. thanks

here is what i was thinking:
toda header
aem cai
apexi n1 or t1r exhaust
t1r testpipe
toda spec C cams/ camgears
fidanza flywheel
toda valvesprings/ retainers

and if anyone else can help me out, i would greatly appriciate it..anything and everything is good.

 

Some CTR pistons and a Spoon or Mugen head gasket with a nice VX or PX intake manifold should get you those numbers all day long, with some kind of engine management and a good tune...

 

x2

 

thanks guys. does it really matter what intake i get, cuz i was lookin at the arc one or is that just payin for the name? so is that all i need or anything else

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2R_GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys. does it really matter what intake i get, cuz i was lookin at the arc one or is that just payin for the name? so is that all i need or anything else</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had an ARC and in my opinon you're just paying for the name, I got rid of that and got the AEM CAI and that gave me more power on the dyno

 

My goals are almost on par with yours. My build is as follows:

Mugen Intake
Mugen TL Exhaust
JDM 4-1 Header
CTR pistons
Mugen Head Gasket
Hondata IM gasket
Skunk2 Stage2 cams
Skunk2 Pro cam gears
Supertech valve springs
NEW OEM retainers
Stage 2 Port and Polish
3 angle valve job.

I'm looking for around 210 WHP myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2R_GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys. does it really matter what intake i get, cuz i was lookin at the arc one or is that just payin for the name? so is that all i need or anything else</TD></TR></TABLE>
It DOES matter. Mugen has been proven to be the best for the build you are wanting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some CTR pistons and a Spoon or Mugen head gasket with a nice VX or PX intake manifold should get you those numbers all day long, with some kind of engine management and a good tune...</TD></TR></TABLE>

id stay away from ctr pistons. especially with a mugen hg. youre looking at close to if not over 13:1 compression with that setup.

if you want to use oem pistons, get b16 or jdm b16 pistons. if not, get a high 11s/mid 12 static cr forged piston

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It DOES matter. Mugen has been proven to be the best for the build you are wanting. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true

However, the AEM CAI does generally make more power up top for 1/3rd the price. Either or in my opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98 ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is true

However, the AEM CAI does generally make more power up top for 1/3rd the price. Either or in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

as far as intake. anything...i mean anything is better than ARC

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98 ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is true

However, the AEM CAI does generally make more power up top for 1/3rd the price. Either or in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, but how often and how long are you at that point in the RPM band? You will be in the lower to midrange point infinately more where the Mugen will really shine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

id stay away from ctr pistons. especially with a mugen hg. youre looking at close to if not over 13:1 compression with that setup.

if you want to use oem pistons, get b16 or jdm b16 pistons. if not, get a high 11s/mid 12 static cr forged piston</TD></TR></TABLE>


I believe it was 12.6 CR with the CTR pistons and Mugen HG. How do I know... well... That's what I'm building.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I believe it was 12.6 CR with the CTR pistons and Mugen HG. How do I know... well... That's what I'm building. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i still think youre off.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=717928

STD = 12.58636786521145
.25 OS = 12.649248792586258

then add in the little bump from the mugen and youre at 12.9 or 13.0:1

 

I'm running the standards myself.

Either way, pump gas with this setup too!!! And DD.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True, but how often and how long are you at that point in the RPM band? You will be in the lower to midrange point infinately more where the Mugen will really shine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I completely agree with you that the Mugen Intake is the better unit, but for me on the track, I'm generally not in the lower RPM range, so I can utilize the AEM top end all the time. Yet, on the street the AEM is lacking due poor throttle response and massive heatsoak. The Mugen is the better all-rounder, yet the AEM is a better single-purpose intake ... makes power up top, and no other intake makes more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2R_GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
here is what i was thinking:
toda header
aem cai
apexi n1 or t1r exhaust
t1r testpipe
toda spec C cams/ camgears
fidanza flywheel
toda valvesprings/ retainers

and if anyone else can help me out, i would greatly appriciate it..anything and everything is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's probably not gonna get you 200-220 whp that u want.

you wanna do it right? and get everything that's best. here goes my list.

sleeve/bore out to 94mm or 95.
forged internals. (connecting rods, maybe the pistons)
nice set of cams... Ti valve sprigns, Ti retainer.
niceR header, smsp, rmp, and so on.
nice tuner.

now that will give you at least 200 + and should be almost bullet proof

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr1244 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that's probably not gonna get you 200-220 whp that u want.

you wanna do it right? and get everything that's best. here goes my list.

sleeve/bore out to 94mm or 95.
forged internals. (connecting rods, maybe the pistons)
nice set of cams... Ti valve sprigns, Ti retainer.
niceR header, smsp, rmp, and so on.
nice tuner.

now that will give you at least 200 + and should be almost bullet proof

</TD></TR></TABLE>

you cant sleeve or bore a b series to 94 or 95. 84 or 85 yes
if youre gonna do forged internals, dont half *** it. do rods and pistons
ti valve springs? streetbike?
toda header is great if he already has it. if not, id go sms these days since randy is so hard to get ahold of

tuner you were right on though

 

Mugen Intake makes power where it counts.

Otherwise it sounds like you've got it decently worked out. I'd stay away from the Apex N1 if it were me though.

 

Go with a 2.0 liter block.

I put together a set-up I though would garantee me over 200whp and I ended up with 193whp.

Granted, mine isn't an ITR motor, but it's still a 1.8 liter.

JDM B18C w/ LSD
Balanced bottom end
Eagle Rods
CP Pistons - Teflon and Ceramic Coated
12:1 c/r
ARP Head Studs
Alaniz Ported/Polished Head
3 Angle Valve Job
Skunk Springs
Skunk Retainers
Rocket M22xx Cams
Skunk Cam Gears
Skunk IM
Hondata Heatshield
64mm Throttle Body
Velocity Stack Intake
RC 310cc Injectors
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
Hondata s100
JDM DC 4-1 ITR Header
Custom Kteller 2.5" Stainless Exhaust
Removed Cat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blazin Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go with a 2.0 liter block.

I put together a set-up I though would garantee me over 200whp and I ended up with 193whp.

Granted, mine isn't an ITR motor, but it's still a 1.8 liter.

JDM B18C w/ LSD
Balanced bottom end
Eagle Rods
CP Pistons - Teflon and Ceramic Coated
12:1 c/r
ARP Head Studs
Alaniz Ported/Polished Head
Skunk Springs
Skunk Retainers
Rocket M22xx Cams
Skunk Cam Gears
Skunk IM
Hondata Heatshield
64mm Throttle Body
Velocity Stack Intake
RC 310cc Injectors
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
Hondata s100
JDM DC 4-1 ITR Header
Custom Kteller 2.5" Stainless Exhaust
Removed Cat</TD></TR></TABLE>


all you need is a decent header man, and im guessing you arent in CA? if you dyno'd at church's you woulda made 230whp all dynos read different

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

all you need is a decent header man, and im guessing you arent in CA? if you dyno'd at church's you woulda made 230whp all dynos read different</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, I live in Charlotte, NC.

I think if you're not restricted to a certain displacement, you may as well go all the way. It doesn't cost that much more to bore and sleeve the block. I totally regret not doing it.

RMF or SMSP header and a 4.9FD are on my list of future mods. Then we'll see if RLZ can schedule me in for a tune.

 

did you make 193 at rlz?

 

I had it tuned by Hybridynamics in PA a couple years ago. There's maybe 4k miles on the engine now, so hopefully RLZ can help me make little more power after I get a new header.

 

oh ok. go dyno it at rlz. then people will REALLLY say you arent making what youre supposed to

my old setup was built by them 85.5x92mm itr motor

im doing a less extensive build for my R though. just gonna do 82mm wisecos, carrillo ultra lite pro a beams, eagle ls crank, pro1's and brads vj

 

damn, i have always heard the intake doesnt matter, but ill go with mugen then. ill trust you guys know what ur talkin about. so toda isnt the best header? i have always heard its between toda, hytech, and smsp but i heard something about clearance for the hytech or smsp, cant really remember to be honest.

so what exhaust would be recommended by you guys? i want something with the best performance, i dont give a **** about look or sound, well i dont want it to sound nasty but it dont have to be loud either. all i want is my car to get up and go. also, is it true that jun makes some good cams/cam gears for the R better than the spec Cs?

what about itb's down the road? or are they a waste of time, money and yeah just a waste? im not a ricer or stupid, i was just wondering for way down the road.