What's up guys. I'm looking to get a little more power out of my 98 Type R. Original USDM motor with 50k.

I'm not looking for anything amazing, just a little more power for some overall fun on the street. The car will be tracked next year, drag and auto-x.

I was looking at Brian Crower cams, Toda Spec A's and JUN stage 1's.

The car will be on a chipped P28, Injen CAI, Apexi exhuast, Toda header and a test pipe. 70mm throttle body

In my mind I am looking to get near 200 whp when tuned.

Any suggestions on cams/different header/ECU program/fuel

Anything is appreciated

 

I think that 70mm t.b. will be a bit overkill. Might be better off porting your intake manifold.

 

no info on a decent set of street cams?

 

Skunk2 Pro1???

 

skunk2 stage 2 or jun3 and a pro fab header

 

def a sk2 stage 2, bc4, or jun 3 cam. these are proven cams

 

street cams id go bc4. You'll like the low and mid end for the streets.

 

how much money do you have?

I'd get an expensive header, ie smsp, dtr, rage, hytech, etc. etc. anything over stock

+ an ats 4.9 fd or at least the jdm 4.7 but i'd opt for the 4.9

 

Short ram with stack
RM M22x cams, SL valvetrain
Toda header
S200/Crome/Neptune
Maybe some 310's..

200 whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dragonz04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ats 4.9 fd or at least the jdm 4.7 but i'd opt for the 4.9
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or a MF for hald the price

 

I'm not trying to half *** the motor, but I didn't mention I don't plan on touching the bottom end. Can I run the Skunk stage 2's. BC4's, and a JUN 3's on the ITR valvetrain?

The header I am willing to pay the money for, the final drive I will buy if I feel a need for it.

The 4.9 is a little wild if I take the car on the highway though??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoon ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not trying to half *** the motor, but I didn't mention I don't plan on touching the bottom end. Can I run the Skunk stage 2's. BC4's, and a JUN 3's on the ITR valvetrain?

The header I am willing to pay the money for, the final drive I will buy if I feel a need for it.

The 4.9 is a little wild if I take the car on the highway though??</TD></TR></TABLE>

skunk stage 2's on stock itr valvetrain, NO

4.9 = the purpose of wild

 

springs/retainers is a must for cam bigger than say a stage1, or ITR, BC3+, etc

as clean rice said above ^^ toda is a great header, just out of alot of peoples price range (including meself). 70mm t-body will be over kill, i recomend a 65mm professional products- 130$ shipped great quality.. be sure to have the manifold matched to the t-body. a good header can be had for around 500$ like the rage or highend, both tri-y 2.5in collector stainless, yea its a copy but lets be realistic.if really on a budjet go with a megan style header 4-1 w/ 2.5 in collector there on ebay for like 125$ shipped they work well. im using a hytec copy myself, works great.. from my experience 1.8L engines like intakes on the longer side. so a 3" cold air/or short ram with any type of v-stack would be good(my ls/v made 12 more whp/9 trq with a longer intake). really doesnt matter what the software is, THE CAR WILL HAVE TO BE TUNED ON A DYNO BY A PROFESSIONAL TO RUN PROPERLY/MAKE MOST POWER.. i cant say this enough... any other questions feel free to IM me or just ask.

these are my opinions sure to be criticized...

phil.


Modified by mx621 at 2:51 PM 8/28/2007

 

^^^^^ thats some good info. but personally all u need is set of springs and retainers and a set of buddy club spec 3's i have it in my c5 and made over 200 on a decent tune. im using bc3's toda header stock intake mani and throttle body theres a minor port on the head and larger injectors. if u go with too big of a cam ur gonna loose power and have no low end and shitty midrange power. the bc4's are too big for stock bottom end.

 

bc4's, tuning, and a more aggresive final drive 4.9 is what i would do, a better header would be optimal but your lookin to spend some bucks for the next step up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^^^ thats some good info. but personally all u need is set of springs and retainers and a set of buddy club spec 3's i have it in my c5 and made over 200 on a decent tune. im using bc3's toda header stock intake mani and throttle body theres a minor port on the head and larger injectors. if u go with too big of a cam ur gonna loose power and have no low end and shitty midrange power. the bc4's are too big for stock bottom end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

a stage 2/bc4/m22x would work well in a ITR. a bc3+ isnt a hole lot larger than a ITR cam. the cams i listed are too big for say a gsr motor, they suit a ITR with boltons VERY WELL..

 

yea but he said he wants to hit the 200whp mark and be able to auto cross it. for autocross you want more midrange than highend. the bc4's produce more highend over the bc3's but for the intrest of auto crossing i would go with bc3's cause the bc3's primaries are larger than oem and the secondary lobes are also larger than stock. my c5 made 216whp with bc3's toda header and a port. besides bc4's have a huge lift and to really take advantage of the cam ur gonna need to port the head. bc3's are perfect for a head that has not been ported.

 

But, aren't the BC4 and Pro1 primarys also larger than stock? That would keep his mid-range and add some top.

 

yea the primaries on both are larger. i initially bought a set of bc4's for my c5 and i dynoed them at i think it was 218whp but i had a huge chunk of lost torque in my rpm band, it looked like a dimple on my graph. spent about an hour tuning them and couldnt get it to go away so i went with the bc3's and the dimple was gone and actually picked up power from vtec engagement at 5500 to 7000 with the bc3's but the bc4's made more power at 7000 and up. idont know about the op but i dont wanna be revving to 9500 all the time just to make power u know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea the primaries on both are larger. i initially bought a set of bc4's for my c5 and i dynoed them at i think it was 218whp but i had a huge chunk of lost torque in my rpm band, it looked like a dimple on my graph. spent about an hour tuning them and couldnt get it to go away so i went with the bc3's and the dimple was gone and actually picked up power from vtec engagement at 5500 to 7000 with the bc3's but the bc4's made more power at 7000 and up. idont know about the op but i dont wanna be revving to 9500 all the time just to make power u know?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not afraid to raise my redline, but like stated I don't want to be around 9500 RPMs just to be making power.

With that said, I'm not looking for the peak numbers....more along the lines of the nice mid-ranfe and smooth curve all around.

Seems from what I read so far, BC3/4's and Skunk stage 2's are the winners?

Does it really make a difference between the Crome, Neptune and S200?

I plan on running 310cc injectors by the way, I forgot to mention that in the OP

 

M22XX

M22X worked very well on a stock block C5. RM head, RM ported AEBS IM, SMSP header, S200 and 238hp on Churches dynapack. This was years ago.

Also for autocross, I'd go with a longer first and a gearset versus a final drive.

 

not bad not bad....the car is going to be more street than track though. i'm not sure if i would mess with anything but the final drive

 

I have a gearset with 4.250 FD (5th is 1:1). I'll be putting in a 4.5 soon and I do lots of highway driving.

Gearset would be better. Drop right into the powerband when you shift.