A Type S with an opinion needed!
I bought the rays extended lugs for the itr wheels and waited like 2 months for them. Problem is that they look out of place to me and I am not really sure that I like them. What do you guys think?














<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by concept11253 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bought the rays extended lugs for the itr wheels and waited like 2 months for them. Problem is that they look out of place to me and I am not really sure that I like them. What do you guys think?
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Looks like poop
All the guys that do this seem to forget that the USDM white = NOT jdm white...
hence it looking ghetto.
and you're hood looks warped.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Looks like poop
All the guys that do this seem to forget that the USDM white = NOT jdm white...
hence it looking ghetto.
and you're hood looks warped.
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Thanks guys. They are the correct lugs, 12x1.5. I think I am gonna go with shorter ones though as I should have in the first place. I was just too lazy to change out my wheel studs because I have the extended studs and want shorter studs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by concept11253 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys. They are the correct lugs, 12x1.5. I think I am gonna go with shorter ones though as I should have in the first place. I was just too lazy to change out my wheel studs because I have the extended studs and want shorter studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i believe hea is talking about using "tuner" lugs on oem wheels. they do not seat right.
i believe hea is talking about using "tuner" lugs on oem wheels. they do not seat right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solbrothers »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no, the lug nuts may be the wrong shank (idk if that's the correct term)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yeah they are technically the wrong style nut. You need the style with a flat bottom and these have a point. I should be running oem wheel lugs with these oem wheels. I heard that if you run the wrong style lugs, your lug nuts will come loose easier. But I keep my torque wrench in the car so I think I am good to go.
no, the lug nuts may be the wrong shank (idk if that's the correct term)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yeah they are technically the wrong style nut. You need the style with a flat bottom and these have a point. I should be running oem wheel lugs with these oem wheels. I heard that if you run the wrong style lugs, your lug nuts will come loose easier. But I keep my torque wrench in the car so I think I am good to go.
Nice car but mismatching lug types is a terrible idea.
What might happen? You're reducing the contact area that the lug has on the wheel, increasing its chances to loosen or even possibly crack a rotor. The only place that the lugs are touching the wheels is along a circle, rather the the entire surface area of the lug.
It's very possible for them to work themselves loose when they don't come into contact along the entire surface area of the wheel. You might get lucky and notice that the wheel is wobbly and be able to re-torque them before they bend and snap a stud or two. Or maybe not, and a wheel could come loose. Either way, you're dramatically increasing the likelihood of causing hundreds of dollars of damage to that beautiful RSX.
Straight from the wheel/tire faq if you don't believe me (I worked as a wheel/ tire tech for years). Yes I have re-torqued tuner lugs that were literally finger loose on OEM wheels.
"The "seating area" (or "seat") is the area of the lug nut, and the area of the wheel, that come in contact with each other. Stock Honda/Acura wheels have a ball/radius/spherical shaped seating area, and need lug nuts (such as stock lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. Aftermarket wheels use a tapered/conical/cone shaped seating area and need lug nuts (including most tuner lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. No, it is not safe to mix and match (stock wheel with tapered lugs or vice versa); the contact between the lugnut and the wheel will be insufficient, putting undue stress on them and potentially causing failure."
What might happen? You're reducing the contact area that the lug has on the wheel, increasing its chances to loosen or even possibly crack a rotor. The only place that the lugs are touching the wheels is along a circle, rather the the entire surface area of the lug.
It's very possible for them to work themselves loose when they don't come into contact along the entire surface area of the wheel. You might get lucky and notice that the wheel is wobbly and be able to re-torque them before they bend and snap a stud or two. Or maybe not, and a wheel could come loose. Either way, you're dramatically increasing the likelihood of causing hundreds of dollars of damage to that beautiful RSX.
Straight from the wheel/tire faq if you don't believe me (I worked as a wheel/ tire tech for years). Yes I have re-torqued tuner lugs that were literally finger loose on OEM wheels.
"The "seating area" (or "seat") is the area of the lug nut, and the area of the wheel, that come in contact with each other. Stock Honda/Acura wheels have a ball/radius/spherical shaped seating area, and need lug nuts (such as stock lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. Aftermarket wheels use a tapered/conical/cone shaped seating area and need lug nuts (including most tuner lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. No, it is not safe to mix and match (stock wheel with tapered lugs or vice versa); the contact between the lugnut and the wheel will be insufficient, putting undue stress on them and potentially causing failure."
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Leo C. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice car but mismatching lug types is a terrible idea.
What might happen? You're reducing the contact area that the lug has on the wheel, increasing its chances to loosen or even possibly crack a rotor. The only place that the lugs are touching the wheels is along a circle, rather the the entire surface area of the lug.
It's very possible for them to work themselves loose when they don't come into contact along the entire surface area of the wheel. You might get lucky and notice that the wheel is wobbly and be able to re-torque them before they bend and snap a stud or two. Or maybe not, and a wheel could come loose. Either way, you're dramatically increasing the likelihood of causing hundreds of dollars of damage to that beautiful RSX.
Straight from the wheel/tire faq if you don't believe me (I worked as a wheel/ tire tech for years). Yes I have re-torqued tuner lugs that were literally finger loose on OEM wheels.
"The "seating area" (or "seat") is the area of the lug nut, and the area of the wheel, that come in contact with each other. Stock Honda/Acura wheels have a ball/radius/spherical shaped seating area, and need lug nuts (such as stock lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. Aftermarket wheels use a tapered/conical/cone shaped seating area and need lug nuts (including most tuner lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. No, it is not safe to mix and match (stock wheel with tapered lugs or vice versa); the contact between the lugnut and the wheel will be insufficient, putting undue stress on them and potentially causing failure."
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hmmm... thanks for that. That made my mind up. lol. They are coming off. Anyone interested.
What might happen? You're reducing the contact area that the lug has on the wheel, increasing its chances to loosen or even possibly crack a rotor. The only place that the lugs are touching the wheels is along a circle, rather the the entire surface area of the lug.
It's very possible for them to work themselves loose when they don't come into contact along the entire surface area of the wheel. You might get lucky and notice that the wheel is wobbly and be able to re-torque them before they bend and snap a stud or two. Or maybe not, and a wheel could come loose. Either way, you're dramatically increasing the likelihood of causing hundreds of dollars of damage to that beautiful RSX.
Straight from the wheel/tire faq if you don't believe me (I worked as a wheel/ tire tech for years). Yes I have re-torqued tuner lugs that were literally finger loose on OEM wheels.
"The "seating area" (or "seat") is the area of the lug nut, and the area of the wheel, that come in contact with each other. Stock Honda/Acura wheels have a ball/radius/spherical shaped seating area, and need lug nuts (such as stock lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. Aftermarket wheels use a tapered/conical/cone shaped seating area and need lug nuts (including most tuner lug nuts) which also have the same shaped seat. No, it is not safe to mix and match (stock wheel with tapered lugs or vice versa); the contact between the lugnut and the wheel will be insufficient, putting undue stress on them and potentially causing failure."
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm... thanks for that. That made my mind up. lol. They are coming off. Anyone interested.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by concept11253 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I am not really sure that I like them. </TD></TR></TABLE>
screw teh lug nuts, the wheels look hot fiyaaaa
edit: front lip ftw
screw teh lug nuts, the wheels look hot fiyaaaa
edit: front lip ftw
Those lugs look way better on an aftermarket wheel that has a deep hub so they don't stick out past the wheel. When they come right out to the edge of the hub they look straight
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RARE_EG2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it looks good, and would look better if you get a lip kit on the car
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i agree.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i agree.



