I will start off by saying that the brakes came of a running car, and we did bleed them propperly.

My problem is that I have a nice firm brake petal while the car is off, but as soon as I start the car the petal goes straight to the floor. I still have the 11/16 master cyclinder and the 30-30 prop valve, could that be my problem?

 

What kind of car?

I'm guessing it's a master cylinder issue.

What brakes did you switch to and what did you have before?

 

92 cx and 93 SI brakes and it was drums to disk

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pythoner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will start off by saying that the brakes came of a running car, and we did bleed them propperly.

My problem is that I have a nice firm brake petal while the car is off, but as soon as I start the car the petal goes straight to the floor. I still have the 11/16 master cyclinder and the 30-30 prop valve, could that be my problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

but i'm taking it that you didn't have this problem prior to the swap. keep bleeding brakes. when i did mine i swapped out the frontand the rears. it took me and my mom (she's my helper) about 1.5 hours to bleed them correctly.

 

did you bleed the brakes with the car running? because if you did bleed the breaks with the car off it will be different.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99EKlover &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you bleed the brakes with the car running? because if you did bleed the breaks with the car off it will be different.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pythoner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">92 cx and 93 SI brakes and it was drums to disk</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes did you bleed the brakes with the car on? you do know your supposed to bleed them with the car off.

 

well usually your suppose to bleed the breaks with the car on, specially if there power breaks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes did you bleed the brakes with the car on? you do know your supposed to bleed them with the car off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think a NINJA edit is in order

As long as the key is in acc II the brakes power function will be on. The car doesn't have to be running.

 

the car was not running...I will go try agian

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think a NINJA edit is in order

As long as the key is in acc II the brakes power function will be on. The car doesn't have to be running.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha...you caught me, yes the key is supposed to be in the accII position and THE MOTOR OFF (not running).

but ek forever guy, you know what i mean though!

 

how is that possible if the booster gets vaccum from the engine. the booster wont get any vaccum if the motor is not running

 

Unless your a weakling you don't need the vacuum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by excivicboy96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless your a weakling you don't need the vacuum.</TD></TR></TABLE>



i had no one to help me bleed the brakes except my mother, and she sat there and pump the pedal for a hour and a half. so it's not that hard!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99EKlover &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how is that possible if the booster gets vaccum from the engine. the booster wont get any vaccum if the motor is not running</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not, they're both wrong. I don't know what the **** you guys are talking about having the key in a certain position or having the engine running, but it's totally incorrect. The only thing that changes with the car running is pedal effort. The hydraulic system doesn't change whatsoever.

Also, "power brakes" do not rely on any kind of electrical power to boost the pedal feel or clamping force, they simply incorporate engine vacuum via a brake booster. Having the key in the accessory position will do nothing but drain your battery.

 

Are you sure? When I turn it to acc II the brake pedal gets a lot easier to mash.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's not, they're both wrong. I don't know what the **** you guys are talking about having the key in a certain position or having the engine running, but it's totally incorrect. The only thing that changes with the car running is pedal effort. The hydraulic system doesn't change whatsoever.

Also, "power brakes" do not rely on any kind of electrical power to boost the pedal feel or clamping force, they simply incorporate engine vacuum via a brake booster. Having the key in the accessory position will do nothing but drain your battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm...my repair manual does state that the key does have to be in the accII position, but then again i do have a haynes manual.

 

lol... you can't be serious. The power brake system is vacuum actuated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol... you can't be serious. The power brake system is vacuum actuated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And turns on when you turn the key to acc II

 

Well, find me a battery operated vacuum source for your brake booster and I'll give you $1,000.

 

There isn't one, but the power feature for your brakes does come on at Acc II.

That's about all I know.

 

im pretty sure the car doesnt have to be on or running to bleed the brakes. actually, if the engine is running, it creates excessive force on the brake fluid in the master cylinder and the trapped air bubbles can break up into smaller air bubbles and sit on the insides of the brake lines. you could have a bad seal in the master cylinder, or the master cylinder may need to be bench bled.

 

i think ur master cylinder went bad, when bleeding the brakes did u let the pedal sink all the way to the floor? If you did you are actually damaging the master cylinder seals.. this doesn't come from me, this comes from Honda.. they tell you to put a block of wood underneath the pedal to prevent that from happening... but i think your master cylinder went bad, look underneath the master cylinder, on the booster, do you see fluid leaking???? That's a real good indication that the master cylinder is bad,

 

take a look at the master cylinder. prob primary or secondary seals

 

I put a larger master cyclinder on and it helped, and doing it with the car on helpped also...I am getting a type R booster and master cyclinder on tuesday and the right prop valve...so It should be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There isn't one, but the power feature for your brakes does come on at Acc II.

That's about all I know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So your saying that the power feature on the brakes is on with the key on/engine off???