Koni/GC bump stop problem. help!
installed Koni yellow sports and Ground Control coilovers(450in/lbs front, 550in/lbs rear) earlier this week. been driving around and its rides fine but when i corner hard, the front shocks hit the bump stops which i cut properly. im very sure everythings installed correctly and i have the shocks almost at their firmest setting. my car isnt very low, fender probably sits about 1/2" above the tire. anyone know what to do to prevent it from hitting the bump stop?? i reeally dont want to raise the car much higher, maybe just a 1/4" more at most but i get the feeling even then it may still hit the bump stops.
any help would be greatly appreciated! i really dont want to be riding the bump stops when racing.
thanks!
any help would be greatly appreciated! i really dont want to be riding the bump stops when racing.
thanks!
You can either get these extended top hats or do "the shock trick" to increase your shock travel.
The "shock trick" involves removing the brake line bracket, so the shock sits lower in the fork, resulting in more travel. I did this and don't recommend it, but some people do. When I tried that first, the shock body was so tight in the fork that I had to beat it on the ground. I was then forced to install the shock with the fork on. The only way to do that is to spin the GC perch all the way down, completely off the red collar, to allow the spring all the way down so you can compress the shock enough to get the fork over the axle. Then, on top of that, a proper length bumpstop was just long enough to not allow the fork over the axle when the shock was fully compressed, so I had to run slightly shorter ones. It was a pain in the *** and one of the local tracks is very bumpy and a welded seam over the front tires was actually slicing into the tread in the turns because I was forced to run shorter bumpstops.
I went ahead and just got the top hats so I could put my brake brackets back on and properly install the shock/spring assembly. This solved my bottoming issue and was well worth the $120 for the top hats. I also increased my springs by 100 lbs. all the way around, which helped too.
Modified by ThoseDarnKids at 11:26 PM 8/24/2007
The "shock trick" involves removing the brake line bracket, so the shock sits lower in the fork, resulting in more travel. I did this and don't recommend it, but some people do. When I tried that first, the shock body was so tight in the fork that I had to beat it on the ground. I was then forced to install the shock with the fork on. The only way to do that is to spin the GC perch all the way down, completely off the red collar, to allow the spring all the way down so you can compress the shock enough to get the fork over the axle. Then, on top of that, a proper length bumpstop was just long enough to not allow the fork over the axle when the shock was fully compressed, so I had to run slightly shorter ones. It was a pain in the *** and one of the local tracks is very bumpy and a welded seam over the front tires was actually slicing into the tread in the turns because I was forced to run shorter bumpstops.
I went ahead and just got the top hats so I could put my brake brackets back on and properly install the shock/spring assembly. This solved my bottoming issue and was well worth the $120 for the top hats. I also increased my springs by 100 lbs. all the way around, which helped too.
Modified by ThoseDarnKids at 11:26 PM 8/24/2007
ahh extended top hats, dur why didnt i think of that
. yeah i'd rather not mess with moving the shock in the fork, im sure many ppl do it without a problem but i'd feel more secure with extended top hats.
thanks!
. yeah i'd rather not mess with moving the shock in the fork, im sure many ppl do it without a problem but i'd feel more secure with extended top hats. thanks!
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