I have posted this in the tech forum with no reply so I figured I would try in here. I have SEARCHED and the general concensus is "have it tuned". I could understand that if I was semi-built or had aftermarket cams. I dont. All stock here


The car details:
92 4dr Civic LX
99 USDM B16A All Stock!! YES, oil level is correct
210 compression across the board, no smoke.
New NGK plugs, OE wire, dist. cap/rotor
New fuel pump and filter
Correct fuel feed line
stock P30 ecu.
valve lash checked and rechecked!!!!
crank timing and cam gear timing all line up
Dist. timing dead on
Had firewall mounted MAP, simply moved it over to the t-body MAP.
Password JDM whale ***** intake tube/filter (1 monthe old)
SK2 cat back exhaust
JG header
Now to the issue.

With the stock P30, when Vtec engages at 5700rpm, the car bogs really bad for about 500 rpm and then picks up again. The bog is pretty bad. Bad enuff that you will actually lerch forward. When it does pick back up, it just does'nt feel strong. I have had plenty of swaped Honda's and enuff B16's to tell you that this one feels like it is struggeling to reach redline.

I have tried swaping in a couple of my chipped P28's with various Vtec x-over points, 5000, 5300, 5500, 5700, 6000 and they all had the exact same vtec x-over bogging issue.

Along with everything listed here, I have even swaped in a "known good" set of injectors from a GSR with absolutely no change at all. Swaped in a "known good" map sensor from a GSR with no change.

I have since borrowed a VAFC. Left the x-over point at stock. Tried richening it up a couple of percent......made problem worse. Leaned it out a couple of percent right after x-over and it felt better. Lag seemed to be gone. It scares me to lean it out. I have always richened it just a bit and come out fine. Oh, with the vafc I was also able to check and watch the tps and map values and are with in spec.

I know some are going to say "have it tuned". But damn, spend 400-500 to tune a stock motor?? Come on, its stock!!

Any "helpfull" ideas would be appreciated. I have kinda run out of things to check.




Modified by b18cx at 10:20 AM 8/24/2007

 

check the o ring on the center cap of the camshaft holders in the head
if it is not their then that your problem and you need to replace it

 

never thought of that. Not questioning, but would like to know more of that train of thought.

 

if leaning it out makes it better, its a tuning issue, not an oil pressure issue.

it doesn't seem to me that such a simple setup would require tuning like that....do you have a wideband or access to one?

 

A baseline on a dyno with a wideband will tell you a great deal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if leaning it out makes it better, its a tuning issue, not an oil pressure issue.

it doesn't seem to me that such a simple setup would require tuning like that....do you have a wideband or access to one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My thoughts exactly!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A baseline on a dyno with a wideband will tell you a great deal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but It would be cheaper for me to get my own wideband than pay for some dyno time around here.

Starting to search around for a wide band set-up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Password JDM whale ***** intake tube/filter (1 month old)</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your using the stock P30 ecu and still bogging you might want to try out a different intake on your motor. An AEM ITR CAI fixed my nasty vtec bog a couple of years ago. I have never been a fan of the whale *****. There is quite a bit of dyno info on the AEM ITR on H-T.

 

i ahve abrand new aem wideband for sale if your intrested let me know

 

hey you ever fix your problem i think i might have the same thing it launches really bad too. thanks

 

i have had a problem similar to this but it was in my built LSvtec motor 3 years back, my motor had 295-300psi accross board, no smoke, nothing, but it bogged like a ***** fackka.. it bogged on idle and from 3-5.5K and when vtec engage it just started to back fire and u can't feel no power for ****, it gets slower when vtacKK kicks LOL.... this was my first engine build that i assembled the short block/motor by myself, so i thought i fuccked it all up!! but wait, motors compression is 295-300psi accross board!! no i don't think i fuuck it up! so i recheck everything and found out that it was my distributor cap and rotor going out! So, if u have not check or replace that, u should give it a try.... btw my motor dynoed 194whp and 136lbs. tq.. i was happy!!

 

have you opened up that B16 to verify what camshafts are in it? You wouldn't be the first guy to get an engine that had aftermarket parts.

 

Have you checked/replaced your TPS. I bought an omni man TPS (+ calibrating it) and same problem....gone.

Spark plug wires might be old? Something ignition maybe?

 

i had the same problem couple of days ago bogging at low rpm. i bought new cap, rotors, spark plugs wires and igntion module and it still didnt work. i had an extra obd2 dizzy for my integ so i just change the magnet inside and it works. so my problem was the magnet and i think you probably need to change your dizzy or just get a used dizzy from the junkyard or ebay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soaringchimp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you opened up that B16 to verify what camshafts are in it? You wouldn't be the first guy to get an engine that had aftermarket parts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

like maybe some stg2's