Hi,is there anyone who can inform me about changing stock final drive(4.4) of a b16a2 gearbox and moving to a 4.785 final drive kit(type r).What about the difference in drivability?Thanks.

 

You'll accelerate and rev-up a lot quicker. You'll also be in higher RPMs at a certain gear and speed than with the 4.4 FD.

 

with a FD like that you will top out at like 125 to 130mph.... made for autocross. also i know at 65 w/ a b16 tranny i turn like 3600 and with that you would be at like 4200

 

Thanks a lot.what about the shifting,will iy be faster?

 

the gears dont make YOU shift faster... shifting fast lies in the hand (and foot) of the driver.

 

i mean the short shift?

 

you will need to buy a short shifter to fit you car and tranny... it has nothing to do with gears. but there is a noticable shorter throw with one. DONT GO CHEAP. also just because the shaft itself is shorter doesnt mean its a short shifter. short shifters should be short w/ one bend.

 

do i require to change stuffs like sleeve synchronizer?or will the final drive kit is enough to bolt on?

 

thanks.will i need to change parts like sleeve synchronizer?

 

You'll have to change the countershaft in the transmission. It's not a trivial job; you have to remove all the gears/bearings from the old countershaft and put them on the new one. By no means does the final drive simply "bolt on". You can reuse all the synchros, but if they're worn it's a hell of a lot cheaper to replace them while you're in there then to have to pull the transmission again.

You should do more research; it doesn't sound like you have a good grip on what you're asking about.

 

Thanks a lot guy.

 

Thanks a lot guy.

 

i have a b16 trans, with type r gears and final drive, butw ith a ls 5th gear, very nice setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baulum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks a lot.what about the shifting,will iy be faster?</TD></TR></TABLE>\

gear reduction remains constant regardless of final drive ratio.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fdavie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not a trivial job; you have to remove all the gears/bearings from the old countershaft and put them on the new one. By no means does the final drive simply "bolt on". You can reuse all the synchros, but if they're worn it's a hell of a lot cheaper to replace them while you're in there then to have to pull the transmission again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You sound like the voice of inexperience.


If you can read a manual and follow directions, you are capable of doing this task. I would seek out a helms manual. It's even got diagrams, pictures, and step-by step instructions on how to complete this task. If you are capable of reading a clear and precise manual, you've taken a very large step in becoming a good mechanic.

Tools required.
tq wrench (30 bucks from sears)
14mm socket
12mm socket
30mm socket
vice
wood
12" extension (3/8" drive)
3/8" drive rachet
permatex ultra gray
razor blade
blocks of wood to put between vice and countershaft/ring gear.
3 flatheads


gearing is reduced overall by 8.75% If you're at 3500rpm at 65, multiply whatever RPM you're at by 1.0875 and you'll have your answer.

here's a pic i made for the most difficult part.


remember to put a block of wood underneath the bell housing when you have it on the work bench.

When you can't get the case back on its because the shifter rod mechanism isn't sitting right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You sound like the voice of inexperience.


If you can read a manual and follow directions, you are capable of doing this task. I would seek out a helms manual. It's even got diagrams, pictures, and step-by step instructions on how to complete this task. If you are capable of reading a clear and precise manual, you've taken a very large step in becoming a good mechanic.

Tools required.
tq wrench (30 bucks from sears)
14mm socket
12mm socket
30mm socket
vice
wood
12" extension (3/8" drive)
3/8" drive rachet
permatex ultra gray
razor blade
blocks of wood to put between vice and countershaft/ring gear.
3 flatheads


gearing is reduced overall by 8.75% If you're at 3500rpm at 65, multiply whatever RPM you're at by 1.0875 and you'll have your answer.

here's a pic i made for the most difficult part.


remember to put a block of wood underneath the bell housing when you have it on the work bench.

When you can't get the case back on its because the shifter rod mechanism isn't sitting right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats some knowledge right there

 

I agree, it's very doable for a first timer with a manual.

Though if you are uncomfortable tearing apart your transmission, you might be better off trying to find a good deal on an ITR tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, it's very doable for a first timer with a manual.

Though if you are uncomfortable tearing apart your transmission, you might be better off trying to find a good deal on an ITR tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

++2 I just got done rebuilding my trans first time ever. Installed new synchros, LSD, and bearings. Over all it wasn't to bad. Just follow the manual and watch the way the gears fit together. Over all I had a great time these trans are so cool. If you tackle it make sure that you run through all the gears before you put the case back together. I wasn't paying close enough attention and flipped the 1st gear ring over if I hadn't caught it I would have been in first gear all the time (i think)

 

if u worried about screwing things up or reassembling it the wrong way just get out your digital camera and take pics of everything before you take it apart and youll be fine cause now ull have pictures to go along with your manual. its really hard to mess it up if u have pics and a manual and just take ur time doing it.

 

the exploded diagrams in the helms manuals found on google are awesome

 

i have a b16. if u goin 65 in 5th gear ur rpm is 4400. at 80mph its 5k. 90 mph is vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicracer89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a b16. if u goin 65 in 5th gear ur rpm is 4400. at 80mph its 5k. 90 mph is vtec </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's not a stock b16 trans with a 4.4 final drive. Unless you're running like 175/50/13s.

 

Hi,thank you a lot,so generous.Actually i'm not a mechanic,i only need to know along with the the final drive kit(4.785),will i require to change other parts to bolt the final drive type r?

 

i sale a kit that bolts in to your tranny. you dont have to have any other parts direct bolt in. pm if you want it $550 brand new

 

i check your websites,does the kit comes with all the rings,synchroniser,etc..?