So I just got my car back together about a week ago. I drive it out to school (NY to IN, about 850 miles) and its running great. Only problem was I tore a CV joint on the way. No big deal. Im about a half mile away from my apartment out here sitting in traffic and the car just dies. I immediately thought the fuel pump gave out, or that there was a problem with my kill switches. I bypassed all the switches, still no fuel pump. So I ran a constant 12V wire to the pump and it worked just fine. Still wont start.

The car is now back at my apartment, here is a list of things Ive checked:

No power to ignition system (full MSD setup)
No power to fuel pump
Checked all fuses, none were bad
Constant battery power to main relay, but no power at the wire that comes on with ignition
Running a P72 ECU w/ Hondata...no indicator light on S200 at ignition
Replaced main relay with a known good one
Replaced ECU with a P28
When key is turned to ignition, CEL comes on and stays steady...no codes, and doesnt shut off

Does anyone see something Im overlooking? Could it be a bad ground somewhere? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

No idea. I havent figured it out yet, 2marro I got Off work to take a look at it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2062737&page=2

same goes for you man any ideas, let me kno

 

are your injectors firing? I filled my rail with pressure by running a jumper to my pump and than cranking over the motor and Fuel pressure didnt drop.
What aftermarket parts are you running as far as fuel?

 

is you wiring going to your ecu fuukd?
solid cel means no ecu response
main relay click?

 

I have same no ecu response, but that could be from any signal wire required during KOEO correct?

Also, Does your main relay click off in the on position after a 2 second prime?
just put your hand on the relay when u turn the key to on position.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are your injectors firing? I filled my rail with pressure by running a jumper to my pump and than cranking over the motor and Fuel pressure didnt drop.
What aftermarket parts are you running as far as fuel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same issue here. Fuel pump will build pressure but it seems like the injectors wont release it. Im using an AEM fuel rail/pressure regulator with OEM lines and a pressure guage off the filter.

Wiring going to the ECU is fine. Ive never had a problem with it before, and the only thing that was added was a wire for the knock sensor.

Right now im not getting a 2 sec prime from the fuel pump. The only way I can get the fuel pump to run is by hooking it straight to a 12V source.

From what I can tell, Im only getting one click from the main relay, and thats when I cycle the key from ACC to IGN or vice versa.

 

i have no clue as to what your poblem might be, but i bet 20 bucks its something simple and something not thought about. get the service manual from the link in my sig if you dont have it. it has a troubleshooting flow chart.

 

could never get hondahook up manuals to work.
But yea, my main relay does the same thing, but i swapped it out into my gsr and it ran/started fine and tried the opposite and it did the same in my car...

I dont kno where to start looking, someone must have had this problem before.

 

check your battery terminals and see if it has good contacts. do you have a chipped ecu? if you do and the light is solid, you have a problem with the chip

 

Try this:

once again make sure voltage comes into the main relay on the battery wire.

make sure the main relay ground has zero resistance to the chassis or another known ground.

switch the ign to II (on) and check to see if 12v comes to that wire.

then turn the key to III (ign) and probe 1 wire at a time, cranking it for only long enough to look at the voltmeter screen.

if everything except the last step happens its got to be the relay. post up what you get.

 

One thing it could be, i've had this problem on my truck, and a friend has it on his prelude.

collision detect relay.

if your pump will spit wired direct, but not wired on the harness, could be because of this relay. it is supposed to detect when you've been in an accident and then shut off power to the fuel pump to keep your car from pumping gas into a potential fire. most often it is located in the engine compartment or in the trunk, but my truck's (ford ranger) was under the kick plate on the passenger side (thanks to my good friend and his brother for finding it the hard way...).

once its reattached, fuel pump workie..

unfortunately, the repair manual under Relays says, "There's lots of them. they're usually located in logical places." so you gotta know someone who knows where it is, or go lookin.

 

Maybe on a newer prelude, but I know for a fact that older civics do not have these.

A friend of mine flipped his civic and woke up from being unconcious to hear the engine still running nearly upside down. Needless to say he wasn't out for long, oil pressure would have given out quickly.

you could always turn the key to II and check resistance from the wire at the main relay to the wire at the pump, thats not a bad idea anyways.

 

I have checked continuity at the following places.
Pump to ground- ok
pump to fuel block under dash- ok
pump to main relay-ok
I went into the ecu harness and probed the pin 16 (obd2) which is a fuelpump relay pinout (blue green on the teg, dif on ur car) and It didnt have continuity between relay or fuel pump.

Where does this wire run to? there could be my problem a break or cross short in this circuit.
as far as checking voltage my relay is still in working order.

 

I'd have to look at a schematic to tell you that, it could go any number of places.

Do you have access to a helms manual? You could figure that out in there.

If you also don't have spark, something higher up is wrong. By higher up I mean something that controls both spark and fuel, which is main relay/ign switch kinda stuff. There is a starter cut relay too that you could look into, but I'm not sure that it would kill fuel/spark.

I really think its the ign switch but I could be wrong....

 

Thanks for being so helpful mgags7. I havent had time to work on it yet today, hopefully I will tonight and Ill try a few things you suggested. I do agree that it must have something to do with the actual ignition assembly or wiring from it...I do have access to a Helms, Ill start going through the schematics there.

 

yea i do not have a helms, does anyone have a honda hookup account?
might be able to get it there, but they never send reg. code to my email.

well the Ign switch is getting power because it cranks over, and the radio and everything work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i do not have a helms, does anyone have a honda hookup account?
might be able to get it there, but they never send reg. code to my email.

well the Ign switch is getting power because it cranks over, and the radio and everything work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

PM'd.

And I dont think the ignition switch is bad. But there must be a problem in the wiring which goes from the ignition to turn everything else on.

 

I did have a problem a couple weeks ago with my distributor. the ignition control module in that (90$ for a new one at schucks) died on me. just stopped working. turn over, no go. replaced the module, fired right up.

Hmm.. that may have been too brief. I was turning a corner, and the car died. After talking to my brother (a mechanic for a local car dealership), he thought it could be the ignition control module. That would have been #3 for replacement on this car. So i went to schucks and got one. it was 90$. I opened the distributor, took out the old one, and put in the new one. when i reinstalled the distributor, it fired up and worked. There. and it does kinda sound like the same problem. I'll get some pics of where it is and what it looks like...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalo...79542

there is the link for what it looks like at a parts store.


Modified by soulexistence at 3:48 PM 8/23/2007

 

Thanks for the advice, but I think our problem is a little different. Our fuel pump isnt turning on either...so even if we get the distributor to fire, were still not getting any fuel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the Ign switch is getting power because it cranks over, and the radio and everything work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then I would limit my checks to all the main relay stuff, esp make sure that the wire that is supposed to get +12v when you switch it to II(on) is getting those 12 volts.

I know you said you're not getting spark, but have you checked to see if the ecu is getting power at all, and if so, is it giving it to the distributor? If the ecu is getting power the check engine light should flash or come on when you turn the keys to II.

Check the black wire with a yellow strip at the distributor, when the keys are on II that wire should have +12v.

In preludes, there is a dead plug on the engine harness, it just jumps the injector wires, if you don't have it, the injectors won't fire. I don't know if civics have the same plug or not, but it would be worth looking into.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulexistence &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... he thought it could be the ignition control module. That would have been #3 for replacement on this car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're saying thats the third ICM you've had to replace? Next time just get a fresh distributor on here or maybe from distributor king.

When you replace any item in the ignition setup you should replace them all, that is to say that when you do the ICM, you should get a new coil and new pickups to go with it. These items "wear into each other".

My prelude used to fry ignition coils all the time, and I kept replacing the coils and they kept frying out. A few months ago I bought a whole new distributor, and the problem disappeared. The ICM was probably slightly bad, not giving the coil enough dwell time between sparks, overheating it, and eventually burning the coil out.

 

-My check engine light comes on but never goes off...
Cant check it for codes.
Have installed 2 other known good ecu's

-I do have this Dummy Plug, and I had wired Up a resistor box to it inorder to run 1000cc saturated Injectors. Im 100% I had done the install correctly.
Made sure non of these wires were not connected (bent tabs in dummy plug)

-I will be checking ecu grounds and what not, Think a good resistance check is in order or just a continuity as far as good connections?

 

either works, you want very near 0 ohms on all those wires.

 

yeah, i replaced the distributor. done and done. doin an engine swap on a friend's civ that had the same engine. his distributor worked fine..

ok, back to this trubb tho.. mine is handled. i'm just offering other suggestions..

 

Well I feel like a real dumbass, but I got the car started tonight. Turns out it was a fuse the whole time...dont know how I missed it when I checked and double checked every single one. But I checked them again today and found it. It was the ACG fuse, which apparently controls the alternator and is also linked to the SRS system. It was fuse #24 on my fuseblock. The Helms has it listed as SRS Unit (vA) and the fuse box cover lists it as ACG.