Ok... I'm a bit upset right now as I knew my rear engine mount has been broken for a few months now and is EXTREMELY annoying when shifting, since the engine bounces back and forth if I don't shift PERFECT. If I don't shift PERFECT, you can hear my engine revs bounce through my exhaust... You know, like if you were to let go of the clutch when rpms are too high, the car will go "wawawawawaaa," well it does this in my car almost all the time. I have to shift slower to make sure I get an exact perfect shift or else it will sound like I don't know how to drive stick(which is embarassing) and I'm tired of having to shift SUPER PERFECT.

I went to remove my rear engine mount and noticed something weird. The rubber portion of the mount is, of course, completely destroyed, but not only that. The center of the mount that the bolt goes through, is not in the center at ALL. I couldn't figure out why. I looked closer. I noticed the upper (top) tranny mount BRACKET was not welded in the correct spot (or so I think) One thing I'm upset about is that the swapper told me he would put a frame bracket from a manual car and weld it into mine, but instead, he cut my automatic mount bracket, and relocated it, and is being held on by THIN metal (which has held up VERY well by the way). I knew that already though when he gave me the car back after swapping. What I just noticed, is that he welded the bracket too close to the front of the car (or so I think) Because of this, I don't think I could EVER install a new rear mount since the engine (I think) is too far up on the passenger side.

Can Anyone look at these pics and tell me if he really didn't sit the engine straight? I mean, the engine IS level, and the engine LOOKS straight from looking at it from the side, but by looking at the rear mount, and placement of the cut auto bracket mount, is it not OK?

I may have to end up having him reweld the tranny mount bracket in the correct location. But to do this the correct way, I could just take off the bracket from any 5 speed right? How would I go about removing it? Do I have to cut the manual mount bracket or are there spot welds I could drill out? And if for any reason I had to have someone else cut and grind off this old bracket and have them weld in the new one correctly, how much do you think it would cost? Thanks all!!!

I'm running to the car right now this very second to take pictures. BRB

PS. I regret not buying the hasport auto to manual conversion mount, but I thought it's price was crazy!




To me it looks he welded that mount a lil too much to the left. I can't figure out why he would do that though..











^^Doubt this pic helps but eh... maybe it will.. I don't know.





^^Notice how the center bolt is NO WHERE near the center of the mount^^

^^As you can see my mess with window weld I attempted to fill it in while the mount was still on the car. Would have worked somewhat and helped ALOT if I would have let it dry correctly by applying only 1/2 or 1/3 at a time instead of all at once. Once I drove the car after 48 hours, felt NICE for the first 6 shifts. After 6 shifts, the wet window weld splurted out the sides of the mount and problem returned.


I'm guessing this is why the rear mount broke in the first place, since (I think) the engine wasn't straight, it was causing extra stress on the rear mount untill the rubber finally tore up to hell... That, or I destroyed the rear mount while getting used to driving stick shift after the conversion (which I doubt since I wasn't THAT bad at all...ish)

Sorry bout the mess of wires but ever since the conversion in March, I've been too lazy to clean up the wiring in the engine bay and have been enjoying driving the car much more instead

Modified by sageuvagony at 7:28 PM 8/21/2007


Modified by sageuvagony at 7:28 PM 8/21/2007

 

awaiting pics.......

 

leave it as is and dump a tube of window weld in the mount

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">leave it as is and dump a tube of window weld in the mount </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't think I didn't try that I tried doing that with the mount in place (as you can see from the pics) but stupid me didn't let it dry correctly. I waited 48 hours before I drove the car bt my mistake was adding in all of the window weld all at once, therefore, the center never would or could dry. When I drove it, it made a huge difference but after 6 shifts, came back. The bouncing came back because the window weld didn't completely dry and just splurt out.

Plus, even if it did dry correctly, it would still have some bounce since I could only fill in one side of the mount since it isn't centered. I could take off the rear mount entirely and reconstruct it with window weld and make it look brand new, but I dont think the mount would work since the engine (I think) isn't centered right.. Uploading pics now as I type this response.

 

i dont see no pics ?

 

Pics up now

 

dee dee dee bump...

 

Why dont you just buy the right auto to manual mount so everything lines up and then replace what you have to replace?

 

Because it's a bit too late for that now

 

its gonna have to be cut and rewelded..