Before I begin, yes I searched. I found no threads that had anything to do with which was better between the two.

So with that said. What are the benefits of both?

I've heard that the stock cast internals from our motors are lighter than anything currently offered by the aftermarket in terms of internals...

But, in my opinion wouldn't forged be more cost effective and better in the long run?

My proposed plan is as such.

Blox Comp. B Cams
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears
Toda Belt
Supertech Flat Faced Valves
Supertech Valve Springs
Supertech Retainers
ITR LMA's
OEM 3 Layer Headgasket

TWM 50mm ITBS
hytech header

GSR block (94-95)
LS Crank
LS Rods
P30's
ARP Main studs
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head Studs
P72 Oil Pump (96+)
P72 Water Pump
Toda Timing Belt (got it for free)
Blocked off Breather Chamber
Endyn Catch Can (maybe Moroso)
Rotating assembly balanced to 10,000 rpms, but will not see anything past 9,500 rpms.

I'd like to see 220 WHP tuned w/Hondata S300 on 91 octane. Car will primarily be a budget track car and occasional weekend prowl the streets cruiser...


Before you go off on ITB's please realize this thread is an opinion thread on internals being forged or cast. Theres no need to comment on anything but the use of forged or cast OEM internals.


Modified by Lt. Spoon at 12:45 AM 8/21/2007


Modified by Lt. Spoon at 3:35 PM 8/21/2007


Modified by Lt. Spoon at 3:36 PM 8/21/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lt. Spoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Before I begin, yes I searched. I found no threads that had anything to do with which was better between the two.

So with that said. What are the benefits of both?

I've heard that the stock cast internals from our motors are lighter than anything currently offered by the aftermarket in terms of internals...

But, in my opinion wouldn't forged be more cost effective and better in the long run?

My proposed plan is as such.

Toda B Cams
Toda Cam Gears
Toda Belt
Supertech Flat Faced Valves
Supertech Valve Springs
Supertech Retainers
ITR LMA's
OEM 3 Layer Headgasket

TWM 50mm ITBS
hytech header

81mm GSR block
GSR Crank
GSR (sized) Rods (forged or cast???)
12:1 CR (forged or cast???)
OEM bearings
OEM Pumps/Seals
Rotating assembly balanced to 10,000 rpms, but will not see anything past 9,500 rpms.

I'd like to see 220 WHP tuned w/Hondata S300 on 91 octane. Car will primarily be a budget track car and occasional weekend prowl the streets cruiser...


Before you go off on ITB's please realize this thread is an opinion thread on internals being forged or cast. Theres no need to comment on anything but the use of forged or cast OEM internals.


Modified by Lt. Spoon at 12:45 AM 8/21/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
budget?? What kind...Nobody's goin to down going itbs, there's 38484 other threads for that.
You can see some high compression with OEM internal's. Milling a gsr head, with a 1layer hg and some p30 will put you around your cr that you ask of. I Do know that forged internals tend to expand slightly, and cast pistons do need the oil squiters to be cooled down. I dont recommend going CTR/PCT pistons. Pistons oem cast pistons and rods are infact lighten then some forge, but its also the other way around, take ctr's for example, very heavy.
Btw, did a thought of putting a LS crank ever cross your mind?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">budget?? What kind...Nobody's goin to down going itbs, there's 38484 other threads for that.
You can see some high compression with OEM internal's. Milling a gsr head, with a 1layer hg and some p30 will put you around your cr that you ask of. I Do know that forged internals tend to expand slightly, and cast pistons do need the oil squiters to be cooled down. I dont recommend going CTR/PCT pistons. Pistons oem cast pistons and rods are infact lighten then some forge, but its also the other way around, take ctr's for example, very heavy.
Btw, did a thought of putting a LS crank ever cross your mind?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess there really isn't a budget, but the more expensive the parts the longer it takes to build. I know tuning w/ITB's (as well as buying ITB's) is going to be an arm and a leg. Can Hondata support ITB's or would Neptune be better?

I'm doing this with a B16 head and GSR block, sorry I forgot to mention that. I will not run a 1 layer headgasket, I'm going to stick with OEM .030" 3 layer for piece of mind. I know its gone both ways, with people saying the 1 layer is just as reliable as the 3 layer, but for me, I'm going with a 3 layer.

I will have the head cleaned up, ported and polished. Nothing extravagant, just something to clean up the cast marks, etc.

The cast will need the oil squirter's? Thats fine, I didn't plan on removing them.

I did leave off that for all fasteners I would be using ARP's. Such as ARP main studs, head studs, rod bolts (especially in the OEM rods), ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

As far as using the LS crank, its crossed my mind and I know it can work and it can have some awesome results... but, should anything else be done to the rods other than just replacing the rod bolts?

I do want to get everything balanced to 10K and use OEM Honda Bearings w/OEM oil clearances.

 

I forgot to mention, I will not be using Toda B's (and gears) the deal fell through on those...

I'll be using Blox Competition Spec B's instead...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lt. Spoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I guess there really isn't a budget, but the more expensive the parts the longer it takes to build. I know tuning w/ITB's (as well as buying ITB's) is going to be an arm and a leg. Can Hondata support ITB's or would Neptune be better?

I'm doing this with a B16 head and GSR block, sorry I forgot to mention that. I will not run a 1 layer headgasket, I'm going to stick with OEM .030" 3 layer for piece of mind. I know its gone both ways, with people saying the 1 layer is just as reliable as the 3 layer, but for me, I'm going with a 3 layer.

I will have the head cleaned up, ported and polished. Nothing extravagant, just something to clean up the cast marks, etc.

The cast will need the oil squirter's? Thats fine, I didn't plan on removing them.

I did leave off that for all fasteners I would be using ARP's. Such as ARP main studs, head studs, rod bolts (especially in the OEM rods), ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

As far as using the LS crank, its crossed my mind and I know it can work and it can have some awesome results... but, should anything else be done to the rods other than just replacing the rod bolts?

I do want to get everything balanced to 10K and use OEM Honda Bearings w/OEM oil clearances.</TD></TR></TABLE>just ls rod bolts would really be a downfall, the ls crank can support the revs a gsr or itr crank does, i'd suggest getting some shaved off, if possible, but having everything balanced is a good idea.
As for as the cast needing oil squarters thats what i've heard, its a good idea to keep them if ur running oem pistons. Actually tuning itbs, isn't as hard as everyone makes it out to be. If the vaccum lines are correct, there's no vac leaks and u have good springs and your itbs are caliberated then your pretty much tuning it just like a manifold setup, it isn't hard, just takes some time.
Anything stated in another thread, by b19coupe, use something that tunes by tps, its goin to be the easiest way, whether its hondata, crome or even neptune. They all allow for tuning via a tps setting. your compression should be good with the gsr head, mill it some and u'll get good results, not alot tho. I think your build will come along fine Blox b's make some good numbers, Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just ls rod bolts would really be a downfall, the ls crank can support the revs a gsr or itr crank does, i'd suggest getting some shaved off, if possible, but having everything balanced is a good idea.
As for as the cast needing oil squarters thats what i've heard, its a good idea to keep them if ur running oem pistons. Actually tuning itbs, isn't as hard as everyone makes it out to be. If the vaccum lines are correct, there's no vac leaks and u have good springs and your itbs are caliberated then your pretty much tuning it just like a manifold setup, it isn't hard, just takes some time.
Anything stated in another thread, by b19coupe, use something that tunes by tps, its goin to be the easiest way, whether its hondata, crome or even neptune. They all allow for tuning via a tps setting. your compression should be good with the gsr head, mill it some and u'll get good results, not alot tho. I think your build will come along fine Blox b's make some good numbers, Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll be using a B16 head.

I'll look into finding a bare GSR block, LS Crank and LS rods w/out pistons...

Thanks for your help.

 

my fault i mistyped lmfao!!
b16 head will show some good gains, make sure to mill it alittle bit to get some more compression

 

not a problem man.
Just curious if you've got pictures of your setup?

So, I guess the bottom end will be....

GSR block (94-95)
LS Crank
LS Rods
P30's
ARP Main studs
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head Studs
P72 Oil Pump (96+)
P72 Water Pump
Toda Timing Belt (got it for free)
Blocked off Breather Chamber
Endyn Catch Can (maybe Moroso)

Top end will be the following...

Blox Comp. B Cams
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears
Supertech Flat Faced Valves
Supertech Valve Springs
Supertech Retainers
ITR LMA's
OEM 3 Layer Headgasket

 

sounds good...an ls crank with shotpeened rods and some p30 pistons should be swell. Your using arp hardware so reliabilty should not be an issue for you!

 

Looks like a good set-up