I Have a 88 CRX Si with a B20Vtec with a dented header that i need to replace.
What is the best bang for buck header that you can use while keeping the stock crossmember? Thanks in advance.

 

DC 4-2-1 or maybe even an ebay header if you want to take the chance. you pretty much have to use a 4-2-1 to avoid notching the crossmember. You might be able to find one with a 2.5" collector if you shop around.

 

your best bet is to get a dc 4-2-1 and modify the collector to 2.5 this will be your best bang.. you can find these used for cheap..


that mod will hold you over until you can save some money and buy an aftermarket crossmember and then buy a real header.


shawn

 

or you could buy my modified stock cross member that will allow you to run any 4-1 header you want.pm me if your interested.

 

How do you modify the crossmember? Any pics of what you have done to it or how to?
I found that pacesetter make a 4-2-1 with a 2.5 collector but you get what you pay for. Its cheaper than DC i guess. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeniRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you modify the crossmember? Any pics of what you have done to it or how to?
I found that pacesetter make a 4-2-1 with a 2.5 collector but you get what you pay for. Its cheaper than DC i guess. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>here you go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaCivicSiR1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here you go
</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't do it. that is an itegral part of the chassis structure. when i notched mine, the steering was quite darty after it was modded. just buy a z10 or full race system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaCivicSiR1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is nasty. There must be better options available.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is nasty. There must be better options available.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree, that thing is hacked to death... innovative makes a nice crossmember at a reasonable price. theres even someone selling them on ebay for like 160 or so..

 

Yeah....That crossmember looks like danger. All i see on ebay is that nasty etd traction bar kit. I have heard bad things. Just wish I could find a nice solution.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeniRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah....That crossmember looks like danger. All i see on ebay is that nasty etd traction bar kit. I have heard bad things. Just wish I could find a nice solution.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well actually on innovatives site they are like 170 or something. i have one and they are a pretty quality product.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rollo Lawson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't do it. that is an itegral part of the chassis structure. when i notched mine, the steering was quite darty after it was modded. just buy a z10 or full race system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you happen to get an alignment afterwards?
i replaced the bushings on my stock crossmember and the steering was "darty" afterwards. but an alignment took care of that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeniRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah....That crossmember looks like danger. All i see on ebay is that nasty etd traction bar kit. I have heard bad things. Just wish I could find a nice solution.</TD></TR></TABLE>yea right that crossmember worked great i can guarantee that it is stronger now over the way it came from the factory

 

i got aftermarket traction bars too if you want them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Disco Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you happen to get an alignment afterwards?
i replaced the bushings on my stock crossmember and the steering was "darty" afterwards. but an alignment took care of that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

didn't make a difference on my whip. to be honest, i notice the most microscopic changes in the chassis when i drive my car. and that **** was foolishness. i vowed to never do it again, and have my Z10 system sitting in the basement.

 

so you used the z10 setup and it did nothing? I find that hard to believe. So your saying i should just mod the stock crossmember?

 

I didn't like the DC sports one. It's tubing size is made for the early LS motors and are not very good for performance on a B20V. Your next best bet would be a used 4-2-1 header like my Mugen EF9 4-2-1
Seriously you can find some good buys on some used high quilty headers if you keep your eyes open

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeniRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you used the z10 setup and it did nothing? I find that hard to believe. So your saying i should just mod the stock crossmember?</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe i was a bit vague. ....when i modded the front c/m, that was on my old chassis (ef). i've since sold that car and now drive a DB2. so, to accomodate my new header, i refuse to mod the c/m. instead, i bought a z10 system. and it will be off of the car until, install my set up