Brakes
hey guys i was just wondering, since its time for new brakes, what setup should i go for.
it is a daily driver but i like pounding on it, so i wasn't sure if i should stick with stock rotors and pads, or go with Brembo slotted rotors and Hawk pads.
so whats a good idea??
TAI
it is a daily driver but i like pounding on it, so i wasn't sure if i should stick with stock rotors and pads, or go with Brembo slotted rotors and Hawk pads.
so whats a good idea??
TAI
If you drive hard the stock rotors are alright with a good set of pads. If your current rotors are discolored or warped to an extreme level, (some warp is normal) you may want to consider slotted/drilled rotors.
Axxis Ultimates and Brembo slotted rotors are my preferred setup. If you have NICE aftermarket rims though, you might not appreicate all the brake dust though; maybe Axxis Metal Masters for you then...
no warp...atleast not that i know of 
yea i i found the Brembo slotted rotor for $161.00 a pair.
and for wheels, nah i have the HXs so it doesnt matter.
so Axxis are better that Hawk?

yea i i found the Brembo slotted rotor for $161.00 a pair.
and for wheels, nah i have the HXs so it doesnt matter.
so Axxis are better that Hawk?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk92_d16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Axxis Ultimates and Brembo slotted rotors are my preferred setup. If you have NICE aftermarket rims though, you might not appreicate all the brake dust though; maybe Axxis Metal Masters for you then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I secound this opinion.
I secound this opinion.
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Im doing the conversion on my 1996 Civic EX. I have the rear trailing arm from SIR or SI Civic in US. I doing the whole suspension first on my car starting from brakes. I have the Hawks pads front and rear, trailing arm bushings, goodridge brake lines, master cylinder. I still did not install any of those items on my car and it keeps laying around my house for couple of months already. I still have to buy prop valve for my car and the LCA so I do it all at once the whole suspension with the springs, shocks, brace, sway bar etc so later on I dont have to install it 30 times.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eG6 driver3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go Spoon calipers!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not that much better than stock considering the price. IMO, there are better/cheaper solutions.
OEM blank rotors with good fluid, some race compound pads, and a bigger or even stock mc will stop very well.
Brake fade might be another issue.
Not that much better than stock considering the price. IMO, there are better/cheaper solutions.
OEM blank rotors with good fluid, some race compound pads, and a bigger or even stock mc will stop very well.
Brake fade might be another issue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not that much better than stock considering the price. IMO, there are better/cheaper solutions.
OEM blank rotors with good fluid, some race compound pads, and a bigger or even stock mc will stop very well.
Brake fade might be another issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Smaller the master cylinder, the more overall pressure, works just like gear reductions. 100psi of force on a 1sq. in. MC piston will create 200psi on a 2sq. in. caliper piston.
So a 1/2sq. in. MC piston with the same 100psi will make 400psi of force on the same 2sq. in. piston.
More pistons on the caliper does the same thing, you can do it either way, smaller MC, or more piston surface area.
Pascal's Principle FTMFW.
Not that much better than stock considering the price. IMO, there are better/cheaper solutions.
OEM blank rotors with good fluid, some race compound pads, and a bigger or even stock mc will stop very well.
Brake fade might be another issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Smaller the master cylinder, the more overall pressure, works just like gear reductions. 100psi of force on a 1sq. in. MC piston will create 200psi on a 2sq. in. caliper piston.
So a 1/2sq. in. MC piston with the same 100psi will make 400psi of force on the same 2sq. in. piston.
More pistons on the caliper does the same thing, you can do it either way, smaller MC, or more piston surface area.
Pascal's Principle FTMFW.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">???^^ english please
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was english.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about Bremo slotted rotors with Hawk Pads, is that good also??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Slotted rotors = less surface area.
formula one cars use blanks for a reason.
</TD></TR></TABLE>That was english.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about Bremo slotted rotors with Hawk Pads, is that good also??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Slotted rotors = less surface area.
formula one cars use blanks for a reason.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so stick to oems with upgraded pads and call it a day?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, get some new rotors, hawk racing pads, and racing grade fluid. (higher boiling point)
Bleed your brakes good before you put in the expensive fluid though.
You'll notice an excellent braking enhancement.
If you don't have rear disks that will also help a lot.
Yes, get some new rotors, hawk racing pads, and racing grade fluid. (higher boiling point)
Bleed your brakes good before you put in the expensive fluid though.
You'll notice an excellent braking enhancement.
If you don't have rear disks that will also help a lot.
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