I own a 98 4dr accord with jdm h22a1 installed but I am constantly having some problems with front axles and flex pipe. I have a gready evo cat back exhust with greddy 4-2-1 header and my flex pipe keeps on going out. I had to replace it 3 times and it just went out again. Also, my front cv joints keeps on going out. Car is lowered 2" with some 18" axis rims and I have koni adjustables.

I am tired of replacing flex pipe and axles. Can someone help me!!! I want to fix the problem; not deal with it every time.

 

I am using accord all accord axles. My motor mounts look okay. I don't see too much vibration or jerk from the motor mounts. I am using stock accord mounts for front and rear and the custom way(one that everyone knows about if you are even thinking of doing the swap) for the driver side.

I fixed the flex pipe problem. I had some stock flex pipe from ford f150 and put that on. I believe you can just you 6in flex pipe but f150 has 2" diameter(same size as greddy evo).

 

upgrade those mounts, they wernt made to with stand the abuse of an h22... fill em in with 3m window weld

 

Thank you for the reply but I am not quite sure what you mean? What should I replace the mount with? As far as I know there are no after market performance engine mounts for 6th gen accord. Should I use Prelude mounts or accord mounts? Fill it in with 3m window weld where?

 

go to ace get a caulking gun and 3m brand window weld which is a type of caulking. take out the stock mounts fill the areas between (gaps) in the rubber with the windoe weld. so the mount is solid. let it dry at least 12 hours before reinstalling the mount. this will make the mount much firmer. i think they were recomending you do this to all your mounts

 

It does indeed sound like an engine alignment issue, along with too much movement going on.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by camdizawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to ace get a caulking gun and 3m brand window weld which is a type of caulking. take out the stock mounts fill the areas between (gaps) in the rubber with the windoe weld. so the mount is solid. let it dry at least 12 hours before reinstalling the mount. this will make the mount much firmer. i think they were recomending you do this to all your mounts </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good call, though from my experience doing this, you should let them cure for up to a week. This stuff doesn't dry quickly in large blobs, as it's meant to be applied in thin beads, so even if you give it a full 24 hours to dry, the inside still might not be cured. Install them this way without enough drying time, and the first time the motor torques, all of it will come gushing out of the mount.

While this works great when done correctly, I highly recommend ES Poly mount inserts. I think I paid about $24 from TAS Auto for the 94-97 EX kit (fits 98-02 4cyls) and is a much quicker process. I believe the "3M Window Weld" costs about $12 for a tube, and more if you don't already have a caulking gun.

 

are you talking bout poly urethan??? thats what I used on my motoro mounts let em dry for a week in the sun or close to a source of heat...put duct tape on one side fill to top BAM solid motor mounts

 

I have had that setup for years; since 02 I believe, and have never had the issues you mentioned.

If you are using the accord axles for the F23 you are fine.

Don't fill your mounts with poly, won't do anything other than scatter your teeth. Trust me I speak from experience.

Try loosinging the two bolts holding the flexpipe to the back of the motor. That should allow for some more play.

As far as the axles, I don't know why, and I am sure it has nothing to do with the motor mounts.

 

Thank you for all of your responses. I'll have some pictures up for you guys tomorrow. I just busted a axle pretty bad. My cv joint popped out on passenger side axle towards the wheel. I ripped the cv boot and i busted metal tie that goes around the boots towards the tranny side. I'll post the pictures up for you tomorrow. Also I am getting getting some weired groove on the axle shaft. I think it's rubbing from bottom of the shock but I don't know how that is possible. See the pics tomorrow.

 

Dude, seriously. If your axles are popping out, or seeing grooves or grinds on the axle, there is something seriously off with the motor alignment. Either that or the installer, whomever that may be, did not seat the axles correctly.

Maybe you should try neutralizing all of your mounts. And just FYI, even SOLID urethane mounts will have a minimal effect on vibration in the car, not 'scatter your teeth." After all, that's what balance shafts are for...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** ive got solid mounts all around... NO Balancve shafts (although my motor is balanced and blueprinted)... and it may be a BIT buzzyt... BUt its not as bad as you would think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me too; except I took out my mounts and went with OEM. There is different kinds/strengths of poly. I think the good setup I was going with was 60 or 80A.

The setup I had ended up with 100 something. Maybe 105, which is equilvalent to a bowling bowl. I also filled my front and rear mounts. At idle my hears was buzzing a little, at 4K or higher, I couldn't hear my passanger talk.

No joke

 

I have to agree with Mr Wonderfull on this. I couldn't tell a difference at idle with solid mounts and no balance shafts. going up to 3K the vibrations grew, but started to taper off after that. Also, a perfectly balanced engine helps reduce some vibrations, but the balance shafts still do a great deal of the dampening. It's simply impossible to counter-act all vibrations in an inline four. But we digress.

for solid mounts, but there's still something not right about the OP's setup for it to do what it's doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a hasport on the drivers side, a solid strut for the front mount going to my traction bar, and two ESP solid style mounts for the trans and rear of the motor.. Although i do not have balance shafts the entire rotating assy is balanced...
Yes tghere is a slight buzzing around 3k, after that it goes away.


Its not as bad as you are saying yours is... hmmm, idk why</TD></TR></TABLE>


You have a traction bar for your 6th gen?!?

ESP?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have a traction bar for your 6th gen?!?

ESP?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fifth Gen.