whats up everyone. Well i did this build over a year ago, then on march i took it to the dyno to get it tuned i made 173hp and 110ft/lbs of torque. Here is the dyno chart.

Well now i want to start tearing down the motor and rebuild it and try and break 200whp. Here is what im planing to do; send the head to portflow, have the block sleeved and bored out to 84mm and cp 11.5:1 compression pistons dunno if i should use the ls rods or go with after market rods or go with a gsr crank and rods. Then go with a 66mm tb, import builders itr intake manifold or the performer X IM and get a better header like hytech or whitfield racing tri y header. Oh and add the walbro 255lph fuel pump i should of put on before i went to the dyno the first time.
Let me know what you all think and lead me on the right path if im doing something wrong, any advice would help. Thanks

here is the current set up
Head:
B16
s2s2 cams
s2 cam gears
s2 high comp. valves
s2 valve springs
s2 titanium retainers
Block:
B18C1
Jdm ITR pistons .25 over
LS rods
LS crank
bolt ons:
password jdm cf intake, b16 throttle body, itr inatke manifold, replica jdm itr 4-1 header, omni test pipe and apexi ws2 exhaust.
fuel system: stock fuel pump, b&m fuel presure regulator and rc440cc injectors.
ECU: hondata s300
tranny: gsr with itr lsd, jdm itr 4.785 final drive, 12lb flywheel and exedy stage 2 clutch.

 

Who tuned your current setup?

 

you should get more out the setup you have. re-dyno\re-tune i'm almost to the 200whp mark out of a 1.8 oem build. going to try and get over that mark now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who tuned your current setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i took it to locash racing in phoenix az.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Old Renegade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should get more out the setup you have. re-dyno\re-tune i'm almost to the 200whp mark out of a 1.8 oem build. going to try and get over that mark now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought i was gonna get close to 200whp. i guess also when i went to go tune i still had the oem fuel pump and the car was starting to run lean when he was trying to make more power

 

Why are there LS rods and an LS crank in your GSR block? You should at least step up to a GSR crank and rods, the LS crank wasn't made to rev to 8K+ RPM's, it will but it's longevity will be severly shortened.....the GSR crank is more well balanced so it can safely rev that high, and the ITR crank is even further well balanced to safely rev to 8400.

And definitley time to step up to a 2.5 inch exhaust.

Everything else looks cool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are there LS rods and an LS crank in your GSR block? You should at least step up to a GSR crank and rods, the LS crank wasn't made to rev to 8K+ RPM's, it will but it's longevity will be severly shortened.....the GSR crank is more well balanced so it can safely rev that high, and the ITR crank is even further well balanced to safely rev to 8400.

And definitley time to step up to a 2.5 inch exhaust.

Everything else looks cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>




whats so great about 200whp? woohoo for a number that doesnt mean a damn thing FTW.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arrojj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i took it to locash racing in phoenix az.


i thought i was gonna get close to 200whp. i guess also when i went to go tune i still had the oem fuel pump and the car was starting to run lean when he was trying to make more power</TD></TR></TABLE>

well do not think the oem fuel pump caused that, think all or most hoda fuel pumps flow 190 lph. maybe you was low on fuel or something. when i was getting my car fully tuned\dynoed it started to lean out cause i was low on fuel. went and got some 93 octane and was good to go. oh i'm running a walbro 255 lph fuel pump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats so great about 200whp? woohoo for a number that doesnt mean a damn thing FTW.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How does one know what parts to buy if they don't set a HP goal? He's doing the right thing by having a target to shoot for. If you don't have a whp goal to aim for your just Lego building with no real direction or end game for your mods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are there LS rods and an LS crank in your GSR block? You should at least step up to a GSR crank and rods, the LS crank wasn't made to rev to 8K+ RPM's, it will but it's longevity will be severly shortened.....the GSR crank is more well balanced so it can safely rev that high, and the ITR crank is even further well balanced to safely rev to 8400.

And definitley time to step up to a 2.5 inch exhaust.

Everything else looks cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well it was originaly gonna be ls/vtec set up but then i decided to go with the gsr block and as for the exhaust it already is 2.5 inch. ya you have a point on the gsr crank and rods. thanks

 

The Apexi WS2 is only 2.38 inches, also has a chambered style muffler. These 2 things will stunt your high RPM whp potential.

 

shoot for MPH or ET....not hp

i could get on a certain dyno and make 160whp and then jump on another and make 200whp. Notice anything wrong here with HP goals?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are there LS rods and an LS crank in your GSR block? You should at least step up to a GSR crank and rods, the LS crank wasn't made to rev to 8K+ RPM's, it will but it's longevity will be severly shortened.....the GSR crank is more well balanced so it can safely rev that high, and the ITR crank is even further well balanced to safely rev to 8400.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything you said is wrong.

 

Everything I said is right.

 

ls rods and crank are absolutely fine for your application....its the rod bolts that are prone to fail on the ls rods not the actual rod..

yor current setup should be close to 200whp as it stands...i dont think your fuel pump is the cause of you running lean ....i think you may want to look into a different tuner...

173/110 is power a b16 w/ those mods will make.

id look into a larger TB as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everything I said is right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

keep telling yourself that, im sure you will have great success in the future.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Old Renegade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well do not think the oem fuel pump caused that, think all or most hoda fuel pumps flow 190 lph. maybe you was low on fuel or something. when i was getting my car fully tuned\dynoed it started to lean out cause i was low on fuel. went and got some 93 octane and was good to go. oh i'm running a walbro 255 lph fuel pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn i dont remember how much fuel i had, i know i went to the gas station before we put it on the dyno. i think it had a lil over half a tank and it was on 91 octane.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Apexi WS2 is only 2.38 inches, also has a chambered style muffler. These 2 things will stunt your high RPM whp potential.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so what exhaust would be best to go with for my set up? I know for sure the header has a 2.5in collector and the test pipe is also 2.5inch in diameter

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shoot for MPH or ET....not hp

i could get on a certain dyno and make 160whp and then jump on another and make 200whp. Notice anything wrong here with HP goals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
True you have a point, as for ET my goal is to run 13s. So far i have run a 14.7 before it was tuned and where i live we are about 3800 feet above sea level.

 

I have a 14.6@99 GSR, not as fast as you I see, but I know what the expletive I'm talking about.
expletive Honda Tech.

 

LOL^^^^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 14.6@99 GSR, not as fast as you I see, but I know what the expletive I'm talking about.
expletive Honda Tech.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so tell me how adding a little stroke is going to diminish the life expectancy of the motor?

and dont give me any rod/stroke ratio bs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 14.6@99 GSR, not as fast as you I see, but I know what the expletive I'm talking about.
expletive Honda Tech.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you obviously dont know what your talking about, based on everything you have said so far in this thread....dont get butthurt cuz your wrong...14.6 in the eighth?

 

Nothing wrong with an LS crank

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls rods and crank are absolutely fine for your application....its the rod bolts that are prone to fail on the ls rods not the actual rod..

yor current setup should be close to 200whp as it stands...i dont think your fuel pump is the cause of you running lean ....i think you may want to look into a different tuner...

173/110 is power a b16 w/ those mods will make.

id look into a larger TB as well</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i have the arp rod bolts on the rod, im going to get the arp main bolts when i tear the motor apart again. as for the TB what would be the best size for it? i was thinking a 66mm TB

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arrojj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well i have the arp rod bolts on the rod, im going to get the arp main bolts when i tear the motor apart again. as for the TB what would be the best size for it? i was thinking a 66mm TB</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends where you wanna make the most power....up top..midrange...etc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everything I said is wrong</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fixed. Now explain to us why a 1.8mm increase in stroke will hurt the longevity of this motor please. Please cite actual experience/data.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arrojj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well i have the arp rod bolts on the rod, im going to get the arp main bolts when i tear the motor apart again. as for the TB what would be the best size for it? i was thinking a 66mm TB</TD></TR></TABLE>

im sure you already know this, but you need to have the big end of the rod resized after pressing in new rod bolts....

as far as the main studs...they are a good idea but arent really necessary....stock bolts will hold up fine....

yeah 66mm TB will compliment your setup well....just make sure to portmatch it to your intake manifold opening...