Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

main relay 1994 accord dx

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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #1  
crazykarlnow's Avatar
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From: killington, vt
Default main relay 1994 accord dx

trying to remove the main relay under dash, over gas peddal. Took out seat trying to get a better grab at it. What a pickle! I try to push in this little push tabby looking thing and with other hand cramped in there pull it out, can't quite get it. any advice?
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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i just replaced mine...i got in and had to use a screw driver to push the tabs in. you have...two? i think...there should be a black tab taped up with the harness, that one twists out. or you can just pull it out of the tape. the others are kind of tricky, but they come out. there should be a little place to push the tab on to get the actual relay out. i suggest you use a small screw driver to push the tab and then wiggle it back out.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 12:43 AM
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From: Tachikawa Shi, Tokyo, Japan
Default Re: (Megaseth)

Practice with the new one first, use two screwdrivers inserted in each end to pry OUTWARD on the outer case then pull the guts out (the relay). Look at the pic by my name, avitar, look at the top and the bottom tabs.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 05:59 AM
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Default Re: (Duane_in_Japan)

wow, you took out your seat!!!!!!!!! lol i didn't have that much of a hard time getting mine out. Hardest part for me was finding it and of course getting on your back but after that it was a piece of cake. all i can say is use common sense and keep tryin.
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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From: killington, vt
Default Re: (kidcool1977)

so check it out, I'm a big guy, hence the need to remove the seat! The m.relay actually needed to go up, push not pull. Once I disconnected 2 other things in my way I got it out. New one from dealer on the way $74.00 later...we'll see what happens tue. evening.
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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Default Re: (crazykarlnow)

got mine for 45 ish bucks i think... maybe it was 54 at majestic honda.com, Got i hate how the dealer overcharges on parts. Anyways you should be all set cause my car kept stalling and not wanting to start on HOT days so far has not done it since i put my new main relay in. Just a reminder i have heard from the grapevine eventuallyin a few years i'm guessin) the new relay you installed the contacts will start to melt due to bad soldering joints
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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Default Re: main relay 1994 accord dx (crazykarlnow)

what problems were you having that made you change it cuz ppl have said that i might need to change mine
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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wow...you guys all paid less that i did...i got mine for $60, which is still cheap compared to the $95 i was quoted at the dealership.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 08:51 PM
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Default Re: (Megaseth)

wow your dealership quoted you @ 95 bucks, what a SHAME. anyway if your car keeps stalling when you start it could be your main relay then again it could be something else. so diagnose before you start buying parts.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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From: Lanett, AL
Default Re: (kidcool1977)

Hey guys my wife's 94 sometimes will die while she is driving. It will crank but when she puts it in drive, it is a auto, it dies again. The D4 light will blink and she said the key is hot when she removed it from the ignition. I haven't been in the car so I don't know how many time the D4 blinks. Thanks for any correct info.....
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:07 PM
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Default Re: main relay 1994 accord dx (crazykarlnow)

haha it sucks taking it off even more if u have never done it before, its on really tight, i ending up unscrewing the bracket, hanging it down, pushing tab in with one finger, stick a flathead screw driver in the crack of the connector and plug and just twisttwist alittle, and do that all the way around and pull off.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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Default Re: main relay 1994 accord dx (crazykarlnow)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord99power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha it sucks taking it off even more if u have never done it before, its on really tight, i ending up unscrewing the bracket, hanging it down, pushing tab in with one finger, stick a flathead screw driver in the crack of the connector and plug and just twisttwist alittle, and do that all the way around and pull off. </TD></TR></TABLE>

umm i just noticed that i didnt scroll down and read that u already got it out. geeez!
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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Default Re: (Megaseth)

You did it by yourself?
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 10:15 PM
  #14  
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From: Tachikawa Shi, Tokyo, Japan
Default Re: (flowercake123)

DKWAITES, it sounds like you have a classic bad electrical portion of the ignition SWITCH, it will die during driving, the heat is from a weak connection drawing too many amps creating heat, it may completely break soon.
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 07:19 AM
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From: Lanett, AL
Default Re: (Duane_in_Japan)

That is what we thought.... This is the rest of the story

This is my Wife's car and I haven't been in the car when this happens. Car is running good but sometimes it will die. After coasting off the road you can crank but when you put it in drive,it is a automatic, the motor dies again, AC is off. Wife says the D4 light blinks but I don't know what speed or how many time. She also said the ignition key is hot when she removed it. She heard a click of some type and I don't know where the sound comes from when the motor dies. The guy that does work on this car replaced the distributor, main relay, ignition switch and it still does this. We have also have the problem of the AC really putting a load on the motor to the point if you are at a low RPM the motor will stall but will crank and run if you turn the AC off and no D4 light blinking or the problem of the motor going dead when put in gear. Did I say this is my wife's car and she is pissed so I need HELP
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #16  
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From: Tachikawa Shi, Tokyo, Japan
Default Re: (dkwaites)

I looks like your tech is throwing parts at it and is taking you for a ride. It appears you have an idle problem, clean the throttle body and IAC. Get the engine fully warm with no AC, turn on the AC and the idle should go up and settle back to around the (NO AC) origianal idle range.

1994 idle should be computer controlled through the IAC, I do not think Honda has a seperate idle up solenoid to adjust vacuum like some other cars. Honda also acts differently when dropped into gear, when in gear the ELD comes into play and effects the idle speed also as well as the IAC under test conditions, difficult to explain that one.

The D4 light flashing only tells you there is now a code in the computer, go get it scanned. I do not mean to talk dirt, you say the ignition switch was changed, I wonder if it was re-soldered or just cleaned up and re-used????? They are easy to repair, just maybe didnt work this time????
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