Should I apply Blue (Medium) Loctite onto the flywheel and pressure plate bolts for my ACT flywheel and pressure plate? the flywheel bolts are brand new OEM. I dont want any of these bolts backing out on me but I also dont want to ruin anything by using loctite so i need opinions! Thanks!

 

loctite melts...if you get high heat loctite, it may work but I dont think you need any either way as long as you torque down correctly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pomansouth01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">loctite melts...if you get high heat loctite, it may work but I dont think you need any either way as long as you torque down correctly...</TD></TR></TABLE>

does it hurt any if i apply loctite? im using medium blue because i heard red loctite is extremely hard to remove from the threads.

 

I wouldnt do it...if it melts out, it could cause those bolts to loosen a little...

 

i dont use any thread locker with my clutch installs, but...

didn't Clutch Masters include threadlocker with their kits for a long time? i think they did...

 

Since ur flywheel is made of steel then you shouldnt have to worry tooo much about loctitening it. Just make sure you torque it down right. I believe its 3 times. First at 30, then 55, then 76. Have fun and GOOD LUCK! hahahhaa


Modified by miss type r tia at 9:44 PM 8/16/2007

 

It never hurts to use loctite, but if you plan on removing the item use the blue. Red is permanent and will need to be heated with a torch to remove it. Remember it cures in the absence of air. It will also not "melt" if used on your clutch setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by performancespec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It never hurts to use loctite, but if you plan on removing the item use the blue. Red is permanent and will need to be heated with a torch to remove it. Remember it cures in the absence of air. It will also not "melt" if used on your clutch setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you think i will have any problems removing the blue loctite off the threads when i remove the bolt?

 

no

 

I see no reason to loctite either item.

 

but do you see any reason why you shouldnt???
Loctite is good stuff. The blue will actually help against vibration causing the screw/bolt/nut to back out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by performancespec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but do you see any reason why you shouldnt???
Loctite is good stuff. The blue will actually help against vibration causing the screw/bolt/nut to back out.


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There is no call for it in the Helm. I have been working on these specific engines (Honda/Acura) since 1996 and have never used Loctite once. To this day, I have never had an issue with flywheel or pressure plate bolts. To me, that is reason enough. If you have THAT much vibration in your crank, I think you have other issues to worry about. Even when using the CTR N1 pulley, I had 0 issues.

Thats like saying "It doesn't say NOT to loctite the crank pulley bolt, so I guess its ok"...

(directed at original poster) You could do whatever you want, its your engine and you are the one who has to remove the parts after loctiting them. Not to be an ***, but if you feel the need, have at it. You asked a public forum for an opinion. If your mind was already made up, why did you bother asking?

 

tightened up the flywheel bolts without loctite tonite and now debating whether to loctite the pressure plate bolts because they're such a low torque.

 

I dont use it, havent ever had any problems....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM turbo DC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tightened up the flywheel bolts without loctite tonite and now debating whether to loctite the pressure plate bolts because they're such a low torque.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol. Dude, no. They aren't under a lot of torque and don't need to be because you have the constant force of the pressure plate pushing against them. Forget the damn loctite.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Lol. Dude, no. They aren't under a lot of torque and don't need to be because you have the constant force of the pressure plate pushing against them. Forget the damn loctite. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea and there are 9 bolts for my xact flywheel instead of stock which requires only 6 pressure plate bolts. decided not to use loctite at all, thanks everyone.

 

the question wasnt whether or not he should loctite them because helms does or doesnt call for it, he wants to make sure they dont back out. Its a precaution, nothing more. You can bareback the chick you just met and pull out, it doesnt mean she is not going to get pregnant. using a condom would be a precaution. Hey, we all know it COULD still happen.
Preventative maint is just that. It doesnt garauntee anything but it helps.
Ive been working on many other cars since 1996, and found that many VW, infinitis, etc... use loctite and a majority of their bolts. What does that mean...They spent 4.00 more at the factory than honda did.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There is no call for it in the Helm. I have been working on these specific engines (Honda/Acura) since 1996 and have never used Loctite once. To this day, I have never had an issue with flywheel or pressure plate bolts. To me, that is reason enough. If you have THAT much vibration in your crank, I think you have other issues to worry about. Even when using the CTR N1 pulley, I had 0 issues.

Thats like saying "It doesn't say NOT to loctite the crank pulley bolt, so I guess its ok"...

(directed at original poster) You could do whatever you want, its your engine and you are the one who has to remove the parts after loctiting them. Not to be an ***, but if you feel the need, have at it. You asked a public forum for an opinion. If your mind was already made up, why did you bother asking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by performancespec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the question wasnt whether or not he should loctite them because helms does or doesnt call for it, he wants to make sure they dont back out. Its a precaution, nothing more. You can bareback the chick you just met and pull out, it doesnt mean she is not going to get pregnant. using a condom would be a precaution. Hey, we all know it COULD still happen.
Preventative maint is just that. It doesnt garauntee anything but it helps.
Ive been working on many other cars since 1996, and found that many VW, infinitis, etc... use loctite and a majority of their bolts. What does that mean...They spent 4.00 more at the factory than honda did.

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but is there a problem with these backing out, ever? if tq'd properly and everything is within reasonable spec, they won't. i've never seen one back out that was torqued properly in 10 years so far. like i said before, i'm pretty sure CM used to include threadlocker with their kits, but maybe that was due to stuff being their spec and not honda's OE flywheel and clutch kit. still, i've never used it as per whatever clutch and flywheel instructions and never had a problem.

i never knew it to really be a concern, but i guess it is lol

btw, do the infiniti and vw use threadlocker on their clutch/fw bolts that you recall?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but is there a problem with these backing out, ever? if tq'd properly and everything is within reasonable spec, they won't. i've never seen one back out that was torqued properly in 10 years so far. like i said before, i'm pretty sure CM used to include threadlocker with their kits, but maybe that was due to stuff being their spec and not honda's OE flywheel and clutch kit. still, i've never used it as per whatever clutch and flywheel instructions and never had a problem.

i never knew it to really be a concern, but i guess it is lol

btw, do the infiniti and vw use threadlocker on their clutch/fw bolts that you recall?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not that i recall, but there is loctite all around the Intake Manifold, TB's etc...
To sum up the argument, If TQed properly it should be fine. It wont hurt to add loctite if you choose to either.

how does that sound?
kris

 

If you use loctine make sure both the male and female threads are clean and dry. Loctite does not work well on greasy bolts. I always use it but I don't think its absolutely necessary and I don't think the bolts will fall out if you don't. If you don't use it make sure you apply a little engine oil or white grease to the threads and torque them properly. All thread should have some sort of lubricant on them. The engine oil or white grease will not make the bolts come out.

 

never heard of applying grease/oil to fly/flex plate bolts. It really doesn't matter. I work for dodge, Flexplates use blue loc-tite, flywheels are dry (even on the cummins engines). it's all up to you. As stated above, use the blue.

 

I only use it because ARP suggested it on their PP and Flywheel bolts. I doubt it will do anything other than its job, and it doesn't effect torque specs as far as I know. I call it added insurance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxpsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only use it because ARP suggested it on their PP and Flywheel bolts. I doubt it will do anything other than its job, and it doesn't effect torque specs as far as I know. I call it added insurance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, insurance is what i have been calling it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by performancespec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, insurance is what i have been calling it</TD></TR></TABLE>


After you bolt the engine in the car, you should weld the mounts to the frame for some added "insurance".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


After you bolt the engine in the car, you should weld the mounts to the frame for some added "insurance".</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your mounts are from Avid, then YES! lol