ok so i have a 98 gsr with 168k. She still runs good without any problems, but im thinking its time for a rebuild. This car is my daily driver and i do drive it back and fourth to school and work. I am going to go with an all motor set up with a budget of about $2500. My goal is 200whp on 93 octane pump gas.
My current mods are a jdm ITR 4-1 header w/ carsound high flow cat and a Thermal R&D exhaust. KBY agx 5-way adjustibles w/ H&R sports.

The set up that im looking for is as follows:

-JDM ITR pistons .25 O/S
-ARP rod bolts
-Honda .25 O/S rings
-Blox type B compition series cams
-SuperTech valves
-Supertech dual valve springs
-Supertech retainers
-ITR intake manifold
-ITR TB
-OEM Main & Rod Bearings & Thrust Washers
-OEM Bottom End Gasket Kit

Anything else that i am forgetting here? And with that set up do you guys think its possible to reach 200whp on 93 octane on a good tune, and be able to drive it back and fourth to work daily?

Suggestions from you guys about my build would be great and very much appreaciated!

 

ARP rod bolts
Port that ITR manifold or get a JG performer X
at least a 68MM TB/ make sure the opening of the manifold is port matched too!!
370cc Injectors
if u got the cash, send the head to Alaniz or Portflow to do a Competition port job...

u shoud be able to break 200whp E-Z

 

what you got going on for ecu and tunning plans

plus you getting the whole bottom end balanced?

 

chipped and socketed p28 with crome and yes getting the bottom end balanced. you think there is a cheeper way to get those power goals?

 

I think you can hit your goal with your setup.

 

You can save some money by skipping the aftermarket valves and retainers, not necessary to replace.

An ITR IM won't bolt up to a GSR head without serious modification. Might as well go with a Skunk2.

68mm TB is too big, I'd get one around 63-64mm. You could bore out your OEM GSR TB up to 64mm....and portmatch that to the IM. More money saved.

You could bump your compression a little bit more with a thinner headgasket. Just pull 1 of the 3 layers of the OEM gasket and that'll do the trick.

Maybe you want to go with 0.5mm oversized ITR pistons rather than just 0.25 oversized. Little more displacement for you.

Hondata IM gasket.

You'll want a 2.5 inch exhaust system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allm0torGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can save some money by skipping the aftermarket valves and retainers, not necessary to replace.

An ITR IM won't bolt up to a GSR head without serious modification. Might as well go with a Skunk2.

68mm TB is too big, I'd get one around 63-64mm. You could bore out your OEM GSR TB up to 64mm....and portmatch that to the IM. More money saved.

You could bump your compression a little bit more with a thinner headgasket. Just pull 1 of the 3 layers of the OEM gasket and that'll do the trick.

Maybe you want to go with 0.5mm oversized ITR pistons rather than just 0.25 oversized. Little more displacement for you.

Hondata IM gasket.

You'll want a 2.5 inch exhaust system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good sugestion but if don't mind i have some toughts,
going to .5mm oversize as appose to .25 is not too much of a difference, i would stick with .25mm just in case you ever rebuild again you still have more room to bore for new rings to fit nice.
also i think if you wanna run a 2 layer head gasket, but one that was meant to be 2 layer as appose to weakning the stock by removing a layer.

thats all i have, everything else i think this guy has some points!

 

-RS Machine or Nippon ITR Style Pistons $150 comes with rings and wrist pins (save some cash over OEM slugs)
-Blox or Skunk2 or Edelbrock Performer X Intake manifold $130-$190-$325 (if you're not planning on upgrading your header go with the Blox or Skunk)
-AEBS or Professional Products 65-68mm TB $145 reuse your TPS and MAP sensor (worth it over a bored out OEM TB)
-ACL bearings/thrust washers ~$100 if your clearances spec out at green or close to green. (you'll save here big time!!)

Add some ARP head studs to your build list and adjustable cam gears.

Personally I'd go with some different cams, something more proven. Rocket M22x, Buddyclub Spec III+, Skunk Pro1's (what I'm going with)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-RS Machine or Nippon ITR Style Pistons $150 comes with rings and wrist pins (save some cash over OEM slugs)
-Blox or Skunk2 or Edelbrock Performer X Intake manifold $130-$190-$325 (if you're not planning on upgrading your header go with the Blox or Skunk)
-AEBS or Professional Products 65-68mm TB $145 reuse your TPS and MAP sensor (worth it over a bored out OEM TB)
-ACL bearings/thrust washers ~$100 if your clearances spec out at green or close to green. (you'll save here big time!!)

Add some ARP head studs to your build list and adjustable cam gears.

Personally I'd go with some different cams, something more proven. Rocket M22x, Buddyclub Spec III+, Skunk Pro1's (what I'm going with)</TD></TR></TABLE>

man thanks for the heads up on these parts specially the pistons and bearings,
where is the best place to order the pistons and bearings from?
are the nippon itr style jdm style or usdm?

 

u can buy the kits on ebay just google type r pistons. i would get something with acl bearings cause there trymetal. some of those kits have king bearings and there aluminum

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-RS Machine or Nippon ITR Style Pistons $150 comes with rings and wrist pins (save some cash over OEM slugs)
-Blox or Skunk2 or Edelbrock Performer X Intake manifold $130-$190-$325 (if you're not planning on upgrading your header go with the Blox or Skunk)
-AEBS or Professional Products 65-68mm TB $145 reuse your TPS and MAP sensor (worth it over a bored out OEM TB)
-ACL bearings/thrust washers ~$100 if your clearances spec out at green or close to green. (you'll save here big time!!)

Add some ARP head studs to your build list and adjustable cam gears.

Personally I'd go with some different cams, something more proven. Rocket M22x, Buddyclub Spec III+, Skunk Pro1's (what I'm going with)</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks man this is the help that i really appreaciate

 

so do you think i should go with some PR3 pistons or ITR pistons, and is there something i can do about the valve train, meaning you guys suggest any other company that youve had experience with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 401tuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks man this is the help that i really appreaciate </TD></TR></TABLE>

im with you this thread has been really helpful for my build too.

401 tuner are you planning on going with the nippon itr pistons?

What are some additional costs involved with running itr style pistons, (ie balancing?)


Modified by climb_on at 11:58 PM 8/17/2007

 

is it weird to bump some elses thread... oh well im curious to figure its better than making a new post<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by climb_on &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im with you this thread has been really helpful for my build too.

401 tuner are you planning on going with the nippon itr pistons?

What are some additional costs involved with running itr style pistons, (ie balancing?)


Modified by climb_on at 11:58 PM 8/17/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I bought RS Machine ITR Pistons in 81.5mm. They are USDM compression. They also have PR3 and CTR. Pistons seemed really good quality, diameter was very consistent piston to piston and the Teflon coated skirt is a plus. Came with Hastings rings and new wrist pins.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1569878

Go with whatever compression you're comfortable with, I chose to go lower and since this is my first rebuild and I didn't want too many issues with tuning. Also your cams should be matched to your final compression and what your desired torque curve and redline.

For me broad torque curve for a road race motor and not going past 8500rpm. 11.2-11.4 compression and I'll be going with Skunk 2 Pro1's.

Valve train needs to be able to handle the lift of the cams, Rocket Motorsport Gen2 springs and Ti retainers for me. Too much seat pressure isn't too good for wear but is needed to rev high. Supertech is good but you may want to match your springs and retainers to your cam manufactured, most likely won't have any compatibility issues and if you happen to run into a warranty issue they can't blame the other manufacturer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 401tuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so do you think i should go with some PR3 pistons or ITR pistons, and is there something i can do about the valve train, meaning you guys suggest any other company that youve had experience with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm deciding if i should go with the RS machine PR3's or ITR's also. which pistons did you end up going with? I was thinking the PR3's because it would yield more compression. do they have the Teflon coated skirt just as the ITR's do?

 

No coating on the PR3's the CTR have them I think