Car wont hold idle after running it hard
So heres the situation. I have a GSR with the following setup:
B18c1 block
-GSR crank
-GSR rods
-ITR pistons
B18c1 head
-GSR valves
-ITR valvesprings
-2001 ITR camshafts
-Skunk2 intake manifold
-Stock 2000 GSR exhaust manifold
-Stock fuel system with relatively new fuel filter
Ignition
-New OEM replacement plugs, wires, rotor, and cap
-Stock distributer timing position (right in the middle)
ECU
-98 ITR ECU OBD2A
The car ran great, no issues at all for about a year. Last Thursday I went out to some twisties and ran the car pretty hard, race car style. After I was done, I drove home and parked it in the garage. Everything was normal.
Come Sunday morning, I try to start the car, it cranks and turns over. The car idles at 1k rpm. I knew something was wrong because it was supposed to cold start at 1.5k rpm. I reset the ecu and the car wouldnt even hold idle anymore. I would crank, it will turn over, it'll try to stay alive, then it'll die. I can keep it alive if I give it throttle. No CELs.
I have yet to find the culprit to the problem.
I done the following things to pinpoint the problem:
-Cleaned IACV
-Checked MAP and TPS sensors
-Checked vacuum lines on the intake manifold
-Checked Cam timing
-Tried a different distributor
-Compression is 245psi across the board
-New Battery
I'm going to test injectors tomorrow, but how often do oem injectors go bad?
I hoping you honda-techers can give me any more possibilities of what may have gone wrong.
Thx guys
heres a pic of my car cause everyone loves pics
B18c1 block
-GSR crank
-GSR rods
-ITR pistons
B18c1 head
-GSR valves
-ITR valvesprings
-2001 ITR camshafts
-Skunk2 intake manifold
-Stock 2000 GSR exhaust manifold
-Stock fuel system with relatively new fuel filter
Ignition
-New OEM replacement plugs, wires, rotor, and cap
-Stock distributer timing position (right in the middle)
ECU
-98 ITR ECU OBD2A
The car ran great, no issues at all for about a year. Last Thursday I went out to some twisties and ran the car pretty hard, race car style. After I was done, I drove home and parked it in the garage. Everything was normal.
Come Sunday morning, I try to start the car, it cranks and turns over. The car idles at 1k rpm. I knew something was wrong because it was supposed to cold start at 1.5k rpm. I reset the ecu and the car wouldnt even hold idle anymore. I would crank, it will turn over, it'll try to stay alive, then it'll die. I can keep it alive if I give it throttle. No CELs.
I have yet to find the culprit to the problem.
I done the following things to pinpoint the problem:
-Cleaned IACV
-Checked MAP and TPS sensors
-Checked vacuum lines on the intake manifold
-Checked Cam timing
-Tried a different distributor
-Compression is 245psi across the board
-New Battery
I'm going to test injectors tomorrow, but how often do oem injectors go bad?

I hoping you honda-techers can give me any more possibilities of what may have gone wrong.
Thx guys

heres a pic of my car cause everyone loves pics

Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 0
From: Local Ice cream man / bay area 510/925
try cleaning the throttle body, sometimes there gets a build up of gunk in there that causes this particular symptom, i have seen on american cars sometimes there is a sensor before the intake mani that gets dirty and throws false readings to the cpu as well.....check taht out and get back to us.!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g0tgot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try cleaning the throttle body, sometimes there gets a build up of gunk in there that causes this particular symptom, i have seen on american cars sometimes there is a sensor before the intake mani that gets dirty and throws false readings to the cpu as well.....check taht out and get back to us.!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I actually swapped the throttle body with my stock gsr one to check the sensors, did the same thing
I actually swapped the throttle body with my stock gsr one to check the sensors, did the same thing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorDan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where does the car idle when it is warm?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car usually idles at a quiet and steady 800 rpm when its running fine. I haven't gotten the car to warm up since this problem has risen.
The car usually idles at a quiet and steady 800 rpm when its running fine. I haven't gotten the car to warm up since this problem has risen.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goota »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whens the last time you did a valve adjustment?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1 year, maybe 5k miles ago. I'll double check my valve lash.
1 year, maybe 5k miles ago. I'll double check my valve lash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ludey849 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your valves again.btw what suspension you on?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Checked my valves, one of the intake valves on cylinder #1 was a little tight. After fixing that, the car did the same thing
But after some brainstorming, i thought about the vibration of the motor turning the TB idle adjustment screw, so I adjusted it and its great. Such a small problem, I can't believe it was just that.
Thx H-T
As for the suspension, in the picture I was riding on Ground Controls with Tokico White struts.
Checked my valves, one of the intake valves on cylinder #1 was a little tight. After fixing that, the car did the same thing
But after some brainstorming, i thought about the vibration of the motor turning the TB idle adjustment screw, so I adjusted it and its great. Such a small problem, I can't believe it was just that.
Thx H-TAs for the suspension, in the picture I was riding on Ground Controls with Tokico White struts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goota »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whens the last time you did a valve adjustment?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ding ding ding.... this was my gut feeling as well. I had the same symptoms with my old Si. You either A) need a valve adjustment, or B) bent some valves and need some head work.
Keep in mind that the valves found in our motors are light enough that at high rpms they are going to flex and still seat properly, in turn doing there job correctly without you noticing as much.
Its when the car is at idle or lower rpms that you are going to notice the difference. Hopefully you just need a valve adjustment...but even if you did bend some valves you aren't looking at a crazy expensive fix.
I would be much more concerned if you said you were having idle issues while pouring multi color smoke ***** out your exhaust.
Let us know what you find
edit: I am retard and didn't read the whole post... glad it was such a simple fix
ding ding ding.... this was my gut feeling as well. I had the same symptoms with my old Si. You either A) need a valve adjustment, or B) bent some valves and need some head work.
Keep in mind that the valves found in our motors are light enough that at high rpms they are going to flex and still seat properly, in turn doing there job correctly without you noticing as much.
Its when the car is at idle or lower rpms that you are going to notice the difference. Hopefully you just need a valve adjustment...but even if you did bend some valves you aren't looking at a crazy expensive fix.
I would be much more concerned if you said you were having idle issues while pouring multi color smoke ***** out your exhaust.
Let us know what you find
edit: I am retard and didn't read the whole post... glad it was such a simple fix
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ding ding ding.... this was my gut feeling as well. I had the same symptoms with my old Si. You either A) need a valve adjustment, or B) bent some valves and need some head work.
Keep in mind that the valves found in our motors are light enough that at high rpms they are going to flex and still seat properly, in turn doing there job correctly without you noticing as much.
Its when the car is at idle or lower rpms that you are going to notice the difference. Hopefully you just need a valve adjustment...but even if you did bend some valves you aren't looking at a crazy expensive fix.
I would be much more concerned if you said you were having idle issues while pouring multi color smoke ***** out your exhaust.
Let us know what you find
edit: I am retard and didn't read the whole post... glad it was such a simple fix
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey man not to jack your post but i have idle problems.
are you saying my valves could be smacked and i not notice only at idle? i can have power with some bent valves?
ding ding ding.... this was my gut feeling as well. I had the same symptoms with my old Si. You either A) need a valve adjustment, or B) bent some valves and need some head work.
Keep in mind that the valves found in our motors are light enough that at high rpms they are going to flex and still seat properly, in turn doing there job correctly without you noticing as much.
Its when the car is at idle or lower rpms that you are going to notice the difference. Hopefully you just need a valve adjustment...but even if you did bend some valves you aren't looking at a crazy expensive fix.
I would be much more concerned if you said you were having idle issues while pouring multi color smoke ***** out your exhaust.
Let us know what you find
edit: I am retard and didn't read the whole post... glad it was such a simple fix
</TD></TR></TABLE>hey man not to jack your post but i have idle problems.
are you saying my valves could be smacked and i not notice only at idle? i can have power with some bent valves?
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