Oil Filter problem.
Bought a 93 hatch, D15 motor. 192k miles. Oil filter will NOT come off, tried band wrenches, filter pliers, sand paper (for grip), a belt and brute strength even tried flat head through filter to turn it, no luck. So I've come the conclusion it is possibly cross threaded or something else. So any other ideas? Or like a shamed man, do I have it towed somewhere to get the $3 dollar oil filter off my car? If the spindle is broken is it tough to replace? Any help is appreciated, help me love my car, b/c right now, I'm not.
Have you tried a Dishwashing Glove & Band Wrench? Back in the 70/80's, "they" used to make these Rubber Pads used for removing Jar Lids, and I used one with a band wrench to remove the filter from my Sentra.
Try wrapping the Glove around the Filter, then the Band Wrench around the Glove. You might want to test whether the Glove grips the Filter first, as not all Gloves are made of the same material. Lastly, you should wipe the Filter with a clean rag and make sure the Glove is dry and doesn't have any of that anti-rot powder...
K&N makes a HP Filter with a 1" "Nut" on the top for situations like this... Might not be worth the $11 most places will ask for it, but...
Hope this helps!
JasonGhostz
Try wrapping the Glove around the Filter, then the Band Wrench around the Glove. You might want to test whether the Glove grips the Filter first, as not all Gloves are made of the same material. Lastly, you should wipe the Filter with a clean rag and make sure the Glove is dry and doesn't have any of that anti-rot powder...
K&N makes a HP Filter with a 1" "Nut" on the top for situations like this... Might not be worth the $11 most places will ask for it, but...
Hope this helps!
JasonGhostz
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Squad2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...tried flat head through filter to turn it, no luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>Dang, man. Sounds like my previous suggestion might not help your situation much. Sorry for not reading more carefully... How did you go about piercing the Filter to get the Screwdriver all the way through (just curious)?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Squad2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So I've come the conclusion it is possibly cross threaded or something else.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm not 100% sure, but I think if this were the case, it would be easier to take off than it would be to put on... I'm starting to think that the Filter fused to the threaded portion of the Holder in some other manner. The only other thing I can think of is using some sort of Vise (do they make Vise Grips that big?) to clamp onto the Filter, but if the Screwdriver didn't work, then I dunno... Maybe further destroying the Filter to expose the part that actually threads onto the Holder may help, but I realize real estate is tight in that area, and using a Torch or Cutter so close to other critical parts isn't the best idea...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Squad2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the spindle is broken is it tough to replace?</TD></TR></TABLE>Again, I've never had to deal with this problem, but here's a diagram (93 3DR DX 5MTKL)...
http://www.slhondaparts.com/br...=true
I notice that the diagram for the 2DR EX is different for this section than the 3DR, as it doesn't show the "other" type of holder (only shows 90015-PH1-013 as "available").
Just tryin to help... I hope you get this thing solved.
Let us know what works!
JasonGhostz
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Squad2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So I've come the conclusion it is possibly cross threaded or something else.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm not 100% sure, but I think if this were the case, it would be easier to take off than it would be to put on... I'm starting to think that the Filter fused to the threaded portion of the Holder in some other manner. The only other thing I can think of is using some sort of Vise (do they make Vise Grips that big?) to clamp onto the Filter, but if the Screwdriver didn't work, then I dunno... Maybe further destroying the Filter to expose the part that actually threads onto the Holder may help, but I realize real estate is tight in that area, and using a Torch or Cutter so close to other critical parts isn't the best idea...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Squad2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the spindle is broken is it tough to replace?</TD></TR></TABLE>Again, I've never had to deal with this problem, but here's a diagram (93 3DR DX 5MTKL)...
http://www.slhondaparts.com/br...=true
I notice that the diagram for the 2DR EX is different for this section than the 3DR, as it doesn't show the "other" type of holder (only shows 90015-PH1-013 as "available").
Just tryin to help... I hope you get this thing solved.
Let us know what works!JasonGhostz
try to stick a big skrew driver through it all the way and do it like that but next time just take it to the shop and make it look like you dont know nothing
Have you ever heard of a filter cup? We use them at Jiffy Lube. Basically it's a cup that fits really snug around the end of the oil filter, then you stick a 3/8 rachet on it, and turn.
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Using the right tool makes things so much easier. Less chance of you hurting yourself or your car. Invest in tools, good ones, they pay for themselves. Also, may sound silly, but make sure you turning counterclockwise. If you are turning clockwise, you are tightening it.
When you finally do get it off, smear oil on the gasket because that is probaly why its so hard to get off
Using the right tool makes things so much easier. Less chance of you hurting yourself or your car. Invest in tools, good ones, they pay for themselves. Also, may sound silly, but make sure you turning counterclockwise. If you are turning clockwise, you are tightening it.
When you finally do get it off, smear oil on the gasket because that is probaly why its so hard to get off
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alocc_Cuhx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sucks..to have ur oil filter stuck..</TD></TR></TABLE>
great help right right there
after everything youve done, i would just consider taking it to a local shop before you jeopordize anything else in your engine bay out of anger
great help right right there
after everything youve done, i would just consider taking it to a local shop before you jeopordize anything else in your engine bay out of anger
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb07 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you ever heard of a filter cup? We use them at Jiffy Lube. Basically it's a cup that fits really snug around the end of the oil filter, then you stick a 3/8 rachet on it, and turn.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I have, it's soo nice!
That's what I have, it's soo nice!
Last time I had a filter from hell, I was using one of those an adjustable-size filter tools for removal. The tool ended up piercing the filter. I eventually got it off by slowly shifting it around the filter so it didn't completely crush the filter completely and got enough torque on the filter to overcome whatever the hell happened to it. After that incident I bought some K&N filters for a while, but eventually just bought the correct size cup for the filters I use, and haven't had any problems since.
It's too late now that you've pierced it, but sometimes doing something simple like warming up the to get the metal parts expanded, then shutting it down and immediately trying to get it off works. Gotta watch out for hot engine/exhaust parts & hot oil that'll spew out. Other times it's better to let the engine get bone-cold, to let the metal parts fully contract.
If you've got a belt-type tool, you could try wrapping it around the very base of the filter and torquing it there. It should have the most strength & is as close as possible to the source of the problem (so the filter casing is less likely to twist).
It's too late now that you've pierced it, but sometimes doing something simple like warming up the to get the metal parts expanded, then shutting it down and immediately trying to get it off works. Gotta watch out for hot engine/exhaust parts & hot oil that'll spew out. Other times it's better to let the engine get bone-cold, to let the metal parts fully contract.
If you've got a belt-type tool, you could try wrapping it around the very base of the filter and torquing it there. It should have the most strength & is as close as possible to the source of the problem (so the filter casing is less likely to twist).
same thing happened to my friend lol, here are the steps he used to get it off
1. get in the best position possible so you can turn the oil filter (may include jacking the car up so you can turn it from under the car)
2. if u dont have one already, go to discount auto parts and buy an oil filter clamp
3. get a dish cloth and wrap that around the filter, then take the clamp and put it on the filter, over the dish cloth and twist as hard as you can and it should come off
1. get in the best position possible so you can turn the oil filter (may include jacking the car up so you can turn it from under the car)
2. if u dont have one already, go to discount auto parts and buy an oil filter clamp
3. get a dish cloth and wrap that around the filter, then take the clamp and put it on the filter, over the dish cloth and twist as hard as you can and it should come off
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Noch
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Jul 26, 2008 01:47 PM




