I can't get that ***** fker off, I used a cheather bar/ 1000 ft lb impact gun, and still won't get loose. Is there any other way to get that b it off?
tomorrow going to get a bigger impact gun and see if it's either going to break the dam bolt or coming lose. If anybody know any other way to do it LMK soon

 

there is a special spanner wrench for honda crank pulleys have that held by another person or the ground, then go at the bolt with another breaker, cheater bars/pipes work to.

 

yeah, go check out my write-up on replacing the timing belt and water pump
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1908944
scroll down to step 10, it's all right there

I've used that setup about 5 times now and it's worked great

 

in my case i didnt had a 1ft extension, so i broguht it to my corner garage. they used a humongous 3/4" impact and it got it off

( i tried electric impact, air impact, brute force.)nothing would do

 

Dont waste your time, I tried everything even the honda god tool. I got it off with setaline torch. Once it glows red take it off it'll come right off.

 

Brace the pulley bolt against the ground (with a bar or whatever) and crank the starter a fraction of a second. That should loosen it real easy without using an impact gun or brute force with a breaker bar. But it's pretty dangerous so I would use this as a last resort.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ultraman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont waste your time, I tried everything even the honda god tool. I got it off with setaline torch. Once it glows red take it off it'll come right off.</TD></TR></TABLE> also most likely melt your crank seal, possibly distort the crank shaft.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F23Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brace the pulley bolt against the ground (with a bar or whatever) and crank the starter a fraction of a second. That should loosen it real easy without using an impact gun or brute force with a breaker bar. But it's pretty dangerous so I would use this as a last resort.</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah I would not do that, I wouldn't do that for anything, hell I would get a new motor first.

 

I actually have a gigantic socket I made. I put a 19mm impact socket into a 30mm socket and welded them together. Weighs about 2lbs. I used to have to use counterhold and breaker bar setups about half the time before I made this socket. Since I've started using the socket, I haven't had a single crank bolt that I couldn't remove. I even watched a fellow tech who couldn't remove a crank bolt. He tried everything. Then I walked over with my gun and socket, bolt came right out. Lots of people have used it as well with perfect success.

Not sure how this helps you, just thought I'd add it. I used to go back and forth with my impact. This would help the bolt loosen up sometimes. I have seen crank bolts with red loctite on them before. Hopefully, yours doesn't.

 

i dont see how that would work could you put pis of it up?

 

Well, it's at work. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. I believe that by inserting the 19mm socket inside the 30mm socket and welding them, the socket becomes much more massive adding inertia. Someone should steal my idea and patent it...

 

hell if it works as good as you say you should patent it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F23Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brace the pulley bolt against the ground (with a bar or whatever) and crank the starter a fraction of a second. That should loosen it real easy without using an impact gun or brute force with a breaker bar. But it's pretty dangerous so I would use this as a last resort.</TD></TR></TABLE>Have you ever done that? Let us know how that works on a Honda. It's actually a popular method on some cars.

Hint: F-series (Accord up to 2002) B-series, D-series, & H-series engines spin the opposite direction of most other engines. This would TIGHTEN the crank pulley bolt on these Honda engines.

 

Nah, I haven't tried it on my car because it didn't require it. I let a mechanic do it because I can go to him if my timing gets messed up and have him fix it. But regardless of the direction the engine spins, you can brace it either way, to counteract a clockwise rotation or a counter-clockwise rotation. You just have to place the bar to the left or to the right of the pulley bolt with the ground acting as the counter-directional torque.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F23Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brace the pulley bolt against the ground (with a bar or whatever) and crank the starter a fraction of a second. That should loosen it real easy without using an impact gun or brute force with a breaker bar. But it's pretty dangerous so I would use this as a last resort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like a good way to tighten the bolt evenmore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F23Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But regardless of the direction the engine spins, you can brace it either way, to counteract a clockwise rotation or a counter-clockwise rotation. You just have to place the bar to the left or to the right of the pulley bolt with the ground acting as the counter-directional torque.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, you're not getting it. The engine spins only one way. Yes you can place the bar on either the left or the right of the pulley to counteract either a clockwise or counter-clockwise rotation but the engine only rotates in a counter-clockwise rotation, not both. Therefor it'll always tighten the bolt if tried that way.

 

D'oh! Thanks for explaining it to me. Good thing I didn't try on my own! But FYI, I still don't get it. Haha, hopefully I'll get it sooner than later. Where's that "hammer on head icon"?

 

haha, ummmm ok when u are looking at ur crank pulley, to loosen the bolt u would either spin the bolt counter-clockwise, or spin the pulley clockwise right?

now the starter only spins the crank pulley counter-clockwise. so if u hold the bolt still and bump the starter, can u picutre that the bolt is pretty much getting tighter instead?

 

yeah sorry, but that was a special post there.

 

Picture of my socket. Badass.

 

so then my question is what made you think of making a socket like this? I am trying to think of the physics of it, and other the added exterior ragitity I still cant really think how it would transfer more tq.

 

Greater surface area?

I think I learned this last year lol. You have to look at the ratchet at a fulcrum, the 30mm acts as a bigger fulcrum and that has something to do with power in levers blah blah blah. Just my guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so then my question is what made you think of making a socket like this? I am trying to think of the physics of it, and other the added exterior ragitity I still cant really think how it would transfer more tq.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got the same quesition. The only things I can think of are the 30mm has a bigger drive (3/4" maybe) which would allow you to use a more powerful air gun and/or the bigger socket's weight allows more 'angular momentum' (I am not sure that is actually a physics term). What I mean is when the same torque is a applied to a heaver socket, you get more 'bang'. Physics/engineering majors speak up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC_RaceR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't get that ***** fker off, I used a cheather bar/ 1000 ft lb impact gun, and still won't get loose. Is there any other way to get that b it off?
tomorrow going to get a bigger impact gun and see if it's either going to break the dam bolt or coming lose. If anybody know any other way to do it LMK soon</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some suggestions:

1. Don't use a socket adapter between the socket and air gun.
2. If you are using quick connectors on your air hose and air gun, switch 1/4" to 3/8" connectors for less air restriction to air gun.
3. Use the 'pulley tool' with the air gun
4. Soak with PB blaster for a while before trying again.
5. Dynamite

Good Luck!

 

Well, the 30mm is a 1/2" drive. It must have something to do either with the added mass or increased rigitiy. I heard about people using 3/4" drive 19mm sockets with 1/2" adapters and having much success. I saw the sockets they were using, they were enormous compared to the 1/2" drive. The socket weighed about twice as much and had a really thick base. They also cost over 50 bucks. I said, "F" that. Took a 6$ 30mm and welded it. I can't pinpoint the reason for it working so well but it does.

I've let people use it in my shop who couldn't get a bolt out with their regular 1/2" 19mm and this worked with instantly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phootbag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I actually have a gigantic socket I made. I put a 19mm impact socket into a 30mm socket and welded them together. Weighs about 2lbs. I used to have to use counterhold and breaker bar setups about half the time before I made this socket. Since I've started using the socket, I haven't had a single crank bolt that I couldn't remove. I even watched a fellow tech who couldn't remove a crank bolt. He tried everything. Then I walked over with my gun and socket, bolt came right out. Lots of people have used it as well with perfect success.

Not sure how this helps you, just thought I'd add it. I used to go back and forth with my impact. This would help the bolt loosen up sometimes. I have seen crank bolts with red loctite on them before. Hopefully, yours doesn't. </TD></TR></TABLE>

OT: Where the hell can I get 30mm, 32mm, 36mm impact sockets?