so i just finished my swap and have a few problems.

first:
when i gas my car it sounds like a supercharger. theres a winding sound coming from the alternator side of the motor. it makes the noise when im gassing in nuetral or driving in gear. i grabbed a hose and tried to find where the noise is coming from but i have no idea. anyone know what i should check for?

second:
my radiator fan only comes on when i shut the car off. i havent really driven around long enough for the fan to come on because of the noise. but once i shut the car off, the radiator fan comes on.
any ideas why? or what i can do to run the radiator while driving and make sure its off when i shut the car off?

third:
is there any other way to adjust the idle of the car other than the idle screw on the throttle body? my car is running a little over 1000 rpm at idle.

fourth:
my valves seem to be making more noise than usual. i may need a valve adjustment. how much do shops charge for this job?

thanks in advance guys.

 

a couple of your q's.

the idle, should only be adjusted with the IACV disconnected, and set to helms spec, which has ranges for both headlights/accessories on and off. If you STILL having trouble getting it down to spec, it could be a few other things, including throttle cable to tight, FITV, other vac line problem. etc.

as for the cooling fans (haha i don't know how many times i've done this spiel but here goes). There are two switches on USDM h22a1's - a switch A and switch B, Switch A is (let's say) on the thermostat housing, it can only activate the cooling fans when the car is running. Switch B however is on the upper rad hose housing (front of the engine) it can activate the cooling fans EVEN when the ignition is in the off position. JDM engines do not usually have SWITCH B, (the housing is blanked where the switch would go) I guess they don't need cooling after shut off in japan. Over here it just functions to cool the car to a lower temp after parking then automatically shuts off when the resistance in the switch is great enough. so you're (jdm) engine SHOULDN't have that switch, unless you transplanted it from your old block. the connector is green (from your old harness) and pops out somewhere around where the dizzy is - so start your search there. the only thing I may have got wrong in the above is the nonemclature of switch a and b, but that's semantics, the locations and functionality are accurate.

if i had to hazard a guess on a valve job, i'd say 70 bucks (CAN)? but that's a guess. it's free if you do it yourself! and you'll learn something too.

I've heard of timing belts that are too tight making a whining noise, but i've never experienced it myself (maybe someone else can field that one) I'd check to make sure no belts are rubbing on anything (like the timing belt covers) etc.

best of luck, enjoy your swap.