How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues?
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How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues?
Integra GSR with 90K miles and stock suspension except for ITR rear sway bar and KYB AGX shocks. 225/45/15 Hankook RS2 tires. I was thinking of possibly replacing some bushings, or getting stiffer springs or Koni shocks.
1: When cornering over a bumpy surface, the car feels as though it is skipping sideways as opposed to jumping up and down and tracking the road. What does this say about my damper settings?
2: In mid speed cornering, the car feels very "rubbery" laterally, as though the sidewalls or something else were really soft. The car feels kind of disconnected from the road and has a "floaty" feeling, as opposed to a "planted" feeling. It's kind of hard to explain.
3: When twitching/yanking the steering wheel (for example, avoiding something in the road), it feels as though the back end of the car responds half a second later than the front. If I increase the damping on the shock, the effect seems slightly diminished, but the rear end delay seems slightly longer. I feel as though if I had to make a sudden lane change on the freeway, the back end of the car might snap around. I tried this same kind of move on a BMW M3, and it kind of reacted more like I expected, i.e. I could feel the front tires get loaded and understeer a bit, but there was no noticeable movement from the back end of the car.
1: When cornering over a bumpy surface, the car feels as though it is skipping sideways as opposed to jumping up and down and tracking the road. What does this say about my damper settings?
2: In mid speed cornering, the car feels very "rubbery" laterally, as though the sidewalls or something else were really soft. The car feels kind of disconnected from the road and has a "floaty" feeling, as opposed to a "planted" feeling. It's kind of hard to explain.
3: When twitching/yanking the steering wheel (for example, avoiding something in the road), it feels as though the back end of the car responds half a second later than the front. If I increase the damping on the shock, the effect seems slightly diminished, but the rear end delay seems slightly longer. I feel as though if I had to make a sudden lane change on the freeway, the back end of the car might snap around. I tried this same kind of move on a BMW M3, and it kind of reacted more like I expected, i.e. I could feel the front tires get loaded and understeer a bit, but there was no noticeable movement from the back end of the car.
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (beanbag)
check your alignment, sounds like it could be off.
also, I've found that the Hankook R-S2's like to "wander" on the road.
also, I've found that the Hankook R-S2's like to "wander" on the road.
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Re: (Lo-Buck EF)
7". I know it's the minimum recommended width, but the sidewalls seem fairly vertical. I also had these same problems back when I was running 205 KDW's on 6" rims
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (tronic)
Alignment was fine 3000 miles ago.
By wandering, do you mean "tramlining"? I don't think that's the problem here.
By wandering, do you mean "tramlining"? I don't think that's the problem here.
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (beanbag)
with me on 205/45/16 hankook RS2s I notice that turn in is slow and if I keep the same hand/wheel position, the turn in gets better mid corner. It could be something in my suspension causing that too. How the loading just starts to grip better or something. Once I give too much input=slight oversteer, too much gas = push.. . Basic FWD characteristics. Koni Race 650/850 EX front sway stock GSR rear, Zero Toe FR and Rear, camber at -2.5fr and -2rear.
I don't notice any skipping
the hankooks will tramline more than a Falken RT615 and if you don't have powersteering, the feeling is worse.. . (me = no PS)
I don't notice any skipping
the hankooks will tramline more than a Falken RT615 and if you don't have powersteering, the feeling is worse.. . (me = no PS)
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (beanbag)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Integra GSR with 90K miles and stock suspension except for ITR rear sway bar and KYB AGX shocks. 225/45/15 Hankook RS2 tires. I was thinking of possibly replacing some bushings, or getting stiffer springs or Koni shocks.
1: When cornering over a bumpy surface, the car feels as though it is skipping sideways as opposed to jumping up and down and tracking the road. What does this say about my damper settings?
2: In mid speed cornering, the car feels very "rubbery" laterally, as though the sidewalls or something else were really soft. The car feels kind of disconnected from the road and has a "floaty" feeling, as opposed to a "planted" feeling. It's kind of hard to explain.
3: When twitching/yanking the steering wheel (for example, avoiding something in the road), it feels as though the back end of the car responds half a second later than the front. If I increase the damping on the shock, the effect seems slightly diminished, but the rear end delay seems slightly longer. I feel as though if I had to make a sudden lane change on the freeway, the back end of the car might snap around. I tried this same kind of move on a BMW M3, and it kind of reacted more like I expected, i.e. I could feel the front tires get loaded and understeer a bit, but there was no noticeable movement from the back end of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
1) You could just be understeering during the high or low point of a bump due to non ideal surface conditions. The "skipping" and "jumping" descriptions are a bit vague so it's kind of hard to say what you're trying to say. Who knows, you could just be losing grip.
2) Obviously you know a 225 tire on a 7 inch wheel is large so, a lot of the lag is from that whether you realize it or not. Maybe just try something in a 205 with a tire that you know has a stiff sidewall. Also maybe check camber and alignment as someone stated, it helps to have about 1/16th of an inch toe in.
3) Balance is probably not optimal with the tire size giving you some lag along with the ITR rear sway bar on stock gsr suspension. Try putting the stock gsr sway bar back in and see if you notice any differences.
Good luck!
1: When cornering over a bumpy surface, the car feels as though it is skipping sideways as opposed to jumping up and down and tracking the road. What does this say about my damper settings?
2: In mid speed cornering, the car feels very "rubbery" laterally, as though the sidewalls or something else were really soft. The car feels kind of disconnected from the road and has a "floaty" feeling, as opposed to a "planted" feeling. It's kind of hard to explain.
3: When twitching/yanking the steering wheel (for example, avoiding something in the road), it feels as though the back end of the car responds half a second later than the front. If I increase the damping on the shock, the effect seems slightly diminished, but the rear end delay seems slightly longer. I feel as though if I had to make a sudden lane change on the freeway, the back end of the car might snap around. I tried this same kind of move on a BMW M3, and it kind of reacted more like I expected, i.e. I could feel the front tires get loaded and understeer a bit, but there was no noticeable movement from the back end of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
1) You could just be understeering during the high or low point of a bump due to non ideal surface conditions. The "skipping" and "jumping" descriptions are a bit vague so it's kind of hard to say what you're trying to say. Who knows, you could just be losing grip.
2) Obviously you know a 225 tire on a 7 inch wheel is large so, a lot of the lag is from that whether you realize it or not. Maybe just try something in a 205 with a tire that you know has a stiff sidewall. Also maybe check camber and alignment as someone stated, it helps to have about 1/16th of an inch toe in.
3) Balance is probably not optimal with the tire size giving you some lag along with the ITR rear sway bar on stock gsr suspension. Try putting the stock gsr sway bar back in and see if you notice any differences.
Good luck!
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Can you guys explain why soft springs and a stiff rear sway bar would create this feeling? I don't have my stock swaybar anymore, so I can't put that back. I was thinking of getting stiffer springs. However, I thought that I might make the rear springs a little softer (for better daily driving) and let the sway bar provide the roll resistance.
Also my toe is zero on both ends. Which end should I get the 1/16 toe in?
Also my toe is zero on both ends. Which end should I get the 1/16 toe in?
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Re: (beanbag)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you guys explain why soft springs and a stiff rear sway bar would create this feeling? I don't have my stock swaybar anymore, so I can't put that back. I was thinking of getting stiffer springs. However, I thought that I might make the rear springs a little softer (for better daily driving) and let the sway bar provide the roll resistance.
Also my toe is zero on both ends. Which end should I get the 1/16 toe in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not exactly sure why exactly the feeling comes from the stiff rear sway. Obviously it's supposed to give a bit of oversteer, but it's a bit hard to diagnose why the rear end responds slowly. It could be just because its a FWD car with oversized tires. The front is obviously going to respond first because those are the wheels that are turning, after the front is beginning to turn in, the car itself may be beginning to roll to the outside also, but you might not be feeling it immediately due to the oversized tire.
Usually its a bit of toe in the front tires. I personally run just a bit of toe in in the front, and zero toe in the rear.
Also my toe is zero on both ends. Which end should I get the 1/16 toe in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not exactly sure why exactly the feeling comes from the stiff rear sway. Obviously it's supposed to give a bit of oversteer, but it's a bit hard to diagnose why the rear end responds slowly. It could be just because its a FWD car with oversized tires. The front is obviously going to respond first because those are the wheels that are turning, after the front is beginning to turn in, the car itself may be beginning to roll to the outside also, but you might not be feeling it immediately due to the oversized tire.
Usually its a bit of toe in the front tires. I personally run just a bit of toe in in the front, and zero toe in the rear.
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (beanbag)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Integra GSR with 90K miles and stock suspension except for ITR rear sway bar and KYB AGX shocks. 225/45/15 Hankook RS2 tires. I was thinking of possibly replacing some bushings, or getting stiffer springs or Koni shocks.
1: When cornering over a bumpy surface, the car feels as though it is skipping sideways as opposed to jumping up and down and tracking the road. What does this say about my damper settings?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That does not sound like a damper problem unless your dampers are blown. It sounds like you're bottoming out the front suspension. The upper control arm might be hitting the shock tower, you might be on the bumpstops, or the tire might be making contact with the body somewhere. All that would lead to skipping through a corner, as if the car never takes a set. We experienced that quite a bit, especially when we ran the cars very low with milder front rates on tight tracks, where the front suspension would get very heavily loaded very quickly.
One way to see if your shocks are blown is to check the area around the seals, where the piston rod goes into the shock body, see if there is fluid. On stock springs, I don't see why the car would be too low.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2: In mid speed cornering, the car feels very "rubbery" laterally, as though the sidewalls or something else were really soft. The car feels kind of disconnected from the road and has a "floaty" feeling, as opposed to a "planted" feeling. It's kind of hard to explain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This makes me believe that one or more of your shocks may be blown. Also check your tire pressures, maybe you are low on air?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3: When twitching/yanking the steering wheel (for example, avoiding something in the road), it feels as though the back end of the car responds half a second later than the front. If I increase the damping on the shock, the effect seems slightly diminished, but the rear end delay seems slightly longer. I feel as though if I had to make a sudden lane change on the freeway, the back end of the car might snap around. I tried this same kind of move on a BMW M3, and it kind of reacted more like I expected, i.e. I could feel the front tires get loaded and understeer a bit, but there was no noticeable movement from the back end of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check your bushings, especially your rear trailing arm bushings. If they are torn or very damaged, that will allow for a lot of slop in the rear suspension movement and possibly lead to unpredictable handling.
Most people will run with a bit of toe out in the front to help with turn-in, and a bit of toe in at the rear for stability under hard braking, as these cars tend to toe out during droop which could cause the car to become twitchy.
1: When cornering over a bumpy surface, the car feels as though it is skipping sideways as opposed to jumping up and down and tracking the road. What does this say about my damper settings?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That does not sound like a damper problem unless your dampers are blown. It sounds like you're bottoming out the front suspension. The upper control arm might be hitting the shock tower, you might be on the bumpstops, or the tire might be making contact with the body somewhere. All that would lead to skipping through a corner, as if the car never takes a set. We experienced that quite a bit, especially when we ran the cars very low with milder front rates on tight tracks, where the front suspension would get very heavily loaded very quickly.
One way to see if your shocks are blown is to check the area around the seals, where the piston rod goes into the shock body, see if there is fluid. On stock springs, I don't see why the car would be too low.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2: In mid speed cornering, the car feels very "rubbery" laterally, as though the sidewalls or something else were really soft. The car feels kind of disconnected from the road and has a "floaty" feeling, as opposed to a "planted" feeling. It's kind of hard to explain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This makes me believe that one or more of your shocks may be blown. Also check your tire pressures, maybe you are low on air?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3: When twitching/yanking the steering wheel (for example, avoiding something in the road), it feels as though the back end of the car responds half a second later than the front. If I increase the damping on the shock, the effect seems slightly diminished, but the rear end delay seems slightly longer. I feel as though if I had to make a sudden lane change on the freeway, the back end of the car might snap around. I tried this same kind of move on a BMW M3, and it kind of reacted more like I expected, i.e. I could feel the front tires get loaded and understeer a bit, but there was no noticeable movement from the back end of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check your bushings, especially your rear trailing arm bushings. If they are torn or very damaged, that will allow for a lot of slop in the rear suspension movement and possibly lead to unpredictable handling.
Most people will run with a bit of toe out in the front to help with turn-in, and a bit of toe in at the rear for stability under hard braking, as these cars tend to toe out during droop which could cause the car to become twitchy.
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (beanbag)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Integra GSR with 90K miles and stock suspension except for ITR rear sway bar and KYB AGX shocks. 225/45/15 Hankook RS2 tires. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There's your problem.
1. Springs too soft
2. Shocks suck
3. Tires suck
4. Old bushings
Here's your fix if you choose.
1. Skunk or ground control sleeves with 10k fronts and 8k rears
2. Koni yellows
3. Bridgestone RE01Rs are calling you
4. Replace trailing arm bushings and what ever other bushings are shot
Your sways are fine but with stock springs, you alignment is probably not all that great if the car is not lowered. You'll want some negative camber.
There's your problem.
1. Springs too soft
2. Shocks suck
3. Tires suck
4. Old bushings
Here's your fix if you choose.
1. Skunk or ground control sleeves with 10k fronts and 8k rears
2. Koni yellows
3. Bridgestone RE01Rs are calling you
4. Replace trailing arm bushings and what ever other bushings are shot
Your sways are fine but with stock springs, you alignment is probably not all that great if the car is not lowered. You'll want some negative camber.
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From: I am Tyson
Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (glagola1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by glagola1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Bridgestone RE01Rs are calling you</TD></TR></TABLE>
so is the verdict in? these are THE tire to have now?
i just noticed these on tire rack recently and been hearing about them all over.
so is the verdict in? these are THE tire to have now?
i just noticed these on tire rack recently and been hearing about them all over.
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (glagola1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by glagola1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There's your problem.
1. Springs too soft
2. Shocks suck
3. Tires suck
4. Old bushings
Here's your fix if you choose.
1. Skunk or ground control sleeves with 10k fronts and 8k rears
2. Koni yellows
3. Bridgestone RE01Rs are calling you
4. Replace trailing arm bushings and what ever other bushings are shot
Your sways are fine but with stock springs, you alignment is probably not all that great if the car is not lowered. You'll want some negative camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sanity check Big Dollar spender
Actually check if your shocks are okay.. . If they are, keepm' but yes Konis are better. Get the aftermarket springs and research the rates you want. Get some camber but that will come with natually lowering the car.. . U don't have to get a camber kit. It's a good idea to get an aftermarket rear camber kit b/c they can be had for cheap and will replace those stock bushings with the kit. Look into a spherical kit like M-Factory.
most def look into the RTA and all other bushings and replace with OEM rubber or Mugen. Don't get polyurathane bull honky crap.. . JHP has a good spherical RTA if you want to go that route.
RE01Rs do not come in 15" sizes, I wish they would but they don't. I agree they are a far superior tire to the Hankook RS2 though. a 225/45/15 RS2 should be better than a 205 RT 615. If I really wanted to run a street tire, I'd love to go 235/40/17 RE01Rs.. . Getem shaved by TireRack though. 10/32s is too much rubber there. Getem to 6-7/32s and run! I wouldn't have bought Toyo RA1s if Bridgestone had a 225/45/15
There's your problem.
1. Springs too soft
2. Shocks suck
3. Tires suck
4. Old bushings
Here's your fix if you choose.
1. Skunk or ground control sleeves with 10k fronts and 8k rears
2. Koni yellows
3. Bridgestone RE01Rs are calling you
4. Replace trailing arm bushings and what ever other bushings are shot
Your sways are fine but with stock springs, you alignment is probably not all that great if the car is not lowered. You'll want some negative camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sanity check Big Dollar spender
Actually check if your shocks are okay.. . If they are, keepm' but yes Konis are better. Get the aftermarket springs and research the rates you want. Get some camber but that will come with natually lowering the car.. . U don't have to get a camber kit. It's a good idea to get an aftermarket rear camber kit b/c they can be had for cheap and will replace those stock bushings with the kit. Look into a spherical kit like M-Factory.
most def look into the RTA and all other bushings and replace with OEM rubber or Mugen. Don't get polyurathane bull honky crap.. . JHP has a good spherical RTA if you want to go that route.
RE01Rs do not come in 15" sizes, I wish they would but they don't. I agree they are a far superior tire to the Hankook RS2 though. a 225/45/15 RS2 should be better than a 205 RT 615. If I really wanted to run a street tire, I'd love to go 235/40/17 RE01Rs.. . Getem shaved by TireRack though. 10/32s is too much rubber there. Getem to 6-7/32s and run! I wouldn't have bought Toyo RA1s if Bridgestone had a 225/45/15
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so is the verdict in? these are THE tire to have now?
i just noticed these on tire rack recently and been hearing about them all over.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a freinds that works for Bridgestone and goes to races all over the place and tests tires as well. He tested the RE01R on the Porsche Cayman S and thought the world of the tire.
RE01R vs RT Falken = RE01R for sure especially for Road Course. It will take a while to dethrown Falken in the AutoX world but time will only tell.. . GET US SOME 15s BRIDGESTONE!! I'm calling Timmy right now!!!
RE01R vs Advan NEOVA = I dunno but I know that RE01Rs cost like 30% less!!!
so is the verdict in? these are THE tire to have now?
i just noticed these on tire rack recently and been hearing about them all over.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a freinds that works for Bridgestone and goes to races all over the place and tests tires as well. He tested the RE01R on the Porsche Cayman S and thought the world of the tire.
RE01R vs RT Falken = RE01R for sure especially for Road Course. It will take a while to dethrown Falken in the AutoX world but time will only tell.. . GET US SOME 15s BRIDGESTONE!! I'm calling Timmy right now!!!
RE01R vs Advan NEOVA = I dunno but I know that RE01Rs cost like 30% less!!!
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From: I am Tyson
Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (6spdKEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6spdKEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RE01Rs do not come in 15" sizes, I wish they would but they don't. </TD></TR></TABLE>
tirerack
195/50VR15
Blackwall Serv. Desc: 82V Price: $104.00 (each)
Estimated Availability: 10/05/07
tirerack
195/50VR15
Blackwall Serv. Desc: 82V Price: $104.00 (each)
Estimated Availability: 10/05/07
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From: I am Tyson
Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (6spdKEG)
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tirerack
195/50VR15
Blackwall Serv. Desc: 82V Price: $104.00 (each)
Estimated Availability: 10/05/07
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Grassroots says they have a 205/45/16 RE01R coming out soon too! ****. Those will be goin on my 16s then!!
195/50/15 is still a bit weak for my 210whp application. Toyo RA1s will see the grunt.. .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seems like grassroots is in favor of them (too).
http://grassrootsmotorsports.c...n.php</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the read
tirerack
195/50VR15
Blackwall Serv. Desc: 82V Price: $104.00 (each)
Estimated Availability: 10/05/07
</TD></TR></TABLE>Grassroots says they have a 205/45/16 RE01R coming out soon too! ****. Those will be goin on my 16s then!!
195/50/15 is still a bit weak for my 210whp application. Toyo RA1s will see the grunt.. .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seems like grassroots is in favor of them (too).
http://grassrootsmotorsports.c...n.php</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the read
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so is the verdict in? these are THE tire to have now?
i just noticed these on tire rack recently and been hearing about them all over.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you been under a rock?
There is no other tire than the Bridgestone. Falkens are trash. It's that simple. On a 45 second course, the tire is worth about .7 to a full second.
so is the verdict in? these are THE tire to have now?
i just noticed these on tire rack recently and been hearing about them all over.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you been under a rock?
There is no other tire than the Bridgestone. Falkens are trash. It's that simple. On a 45 second course, the tire is worth about .7 to a full second.
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (Tire Monkey)
check what everyone told you to, the rear trailing arm bushings, if they are torn or deteriorated then your ends going to give way and be sloppy, at 90k you should replace them anyway to be safe.
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Re: How to solve/troubleshoot these suspension/handling issues? (mos)
Update:
I got koni's, 300f, 200r - I know, that's really soft by other's standards.
Replaced the front compliance and rear trailing arm bushings with Hardrace rubber version.
I would say that these problems are mostly fixed. The back of the car feels more "stable" and "planted". Not sure which things fixed what, but oh well.
My only complaint is that the car feels harsher than what I expected the increased spring rates would cause. I'm thinking that it may be because both the compliance bushing and trailing arm bushings are what prevent the wheels from getting pushed backwards in a bump. I drove around for a while with the old trailing arm bushings and new rear springs and shocks, and it was definitely softer.
I got koni's, 300f, 200r - I know, that's really soft by other's standards.
Replaced the front compliance and rear trailing arm bushings with Hardrace rubber version.
I would say that these problems are mostly fixed. The back of the car feels more "stable" and "planted". Not sure which things fixed what, but oh well.
My only complaint is that the car feels harsher than what I expected the increased spring rates would cause. I'm thinking that it may be because both the compliance bushing and trailing arm bushings are what prevent the wheels from getting pushed backwards in a bump. I drove around for a while with the old trailing arm bushings and new rear springs and shocks, and it was definitely softer.