Modified by odogg726 at 7:16 PM 9/23/2007

 

does it crank or nothing?

 

actually it cranks and sounds like it wants to start, it just won't. A buddy of mine said if one of the valves is bent, then there's not enough compression for the car to start, any truth to this?

 

What do you mean when you say "red-lined"? Did you hit the rev limiter? Is that what you are saying? If so, that should not do any damage...that why you have one. The only way I could see that happening, is if you put in cams, without upgrading the springs and retainers, or something was mechanically wrong or weak with the engine before the race.

 

Well I've heard of other people with stock internals bending valves cuz of a misshift or just over-revving on an old motor. It was almost simultaneous when I over-revved and when the problems started, cuz right after I redlined it, the engine started to sound different almost immediately. And no power at all, like if I took off in 3rd. Any ideas?

 

Still didn't answer my question. So you over-revved, or hit the limiter?? How far over the limiter did you take it if you over-revved? What cams are you running??

 

Just itr cams with stock gsr internals, it's just that the tach went from 5500 to 8000 so damn quick I just got caught up in the moment i guess. So to answer your question, I guess I redlined it. You know how the car will knock when you hit the factory red line? Well I felt it knock twice, and then I let off right away, but it was too late, I could hear a change in the engine tone almost immediately.

 

people hit off rev limiter all the time, its there to save your motor.. not destroy it, i would do a compression check then come back with the results

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coptzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">people hit off rev limiter all the time, its there to save your motor.. not destroy it, i would do a compression check then come back with the results</TD></TR></TABLE>

My friend's turbo b16 lives on the limiter for like 4 seconds in first, and like 2 seconds in second. It should not hurt anything. But then again, ITR cams on stock valvetrain might have something to do with it. It is rare, but possible to break something like that.

 

If u just revved it till redline it should be fine, if it wasn't ment to rev that high Honda would't let u rev that high... Sounds like it could be a couple diff things. First, yeah u could do a compression check to rule out bent valve, though I don't think it is. Second, check to see if u're getting spark, it could be ur ignitor or coil went bad. Check those things out first, then report back what u find.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by odogg726 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just itr cams with stock gsr internals, it's just that the tach went from 5500 to 8000 so damn quick I just got caught up in the moment i guess. So to answer your question, I guess I redlined it. You know how the car will knock when you hit the factory red line? Well I felt it knock twice, and then I let off right away, but it was too late, I could hear a change in the engine tone almost immediately.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is a good reason why itr cams have different valvesprings! most likely you jump the timing which would caused you to bend valves, not to mention that you should have had ITR valvesprings because they are stiffer than the gsr valve springs. if it knocked twice i can guaranty that it's more than one valve that is bent!

 

how long have you had your current mods?

 

Its because of your cam setup.
The ITRs require stiffer springs.
So taking that high, that hard could cause damage.

 

Previous posters have said you should do a compression test, this is a great how to. http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php
The guage needed isn't all that expensive, and can be found here for about $30.
http://www.sears.com

This will tell you if the valves aren't sealing, and which piston it is that is at fault.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fergy016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Previous posters have said you should do a compression test, this is a great how to. http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php
The guage needed isn't all that expensive, and can be found here for about $30.
http://www.sears.com

This will tell you if the valves aren't sealing, and which piston it is that is at fault. </TD></TR></TABLE>


You found it before I did.

Thats a excellent way to check it out.

 

+1 valve float due to the cam/spring mismatch. Compression test will tell you for sure. ITR cams NEED higher pressure springs, otherwise the high lift will 'float' the valves at high RPM and they'll touch. Sometimes it comes out OK, but usually you bend a valve and jump a tooth or to on the timing belt. Check it soon!

 

This exact thread is circulating around right now as well. You most likely bent a valve, check compression.

 

OK, first of all let me thank everyone for chiming in, and all input is greatly appreciated.

I did a compression test according to the tutorial provided by fergy016, and across the board I still got good compression:

#1 - 220psi
#2 - 215psi
#3 - 220psi
#4 - 220psi

I guess I'm gonna check the spark plugs next, but now that we know this, what else could it be? The car cranks like it wants to turn on, it just won't? Is it possible it could have something to do with the pistons? Thnx again.

 

check your ignitor

 

compression sounds good maybe something you wud never of taught cud be wrong happened to me before i taught it was something big but was just a distrubtor check to see if you have spark, fuel, spark plugs can be really bad to a point which car will not start like happend to my friend once also check plugs,wires, which cud come loose in time once my starter wire came off and i was cranking but it wudnt start i checked it out wire came off so just check everything and go from there-hey its a start

 

Ignition control module.

 

ok, I changed all the spark plugs and still nothing. I swear it cranks like it wants to turn on, everything but the "Vroom" of the engine starting. I checked the wires, and made sure they were all the way in and secured. I guess I'll check the ignition module or ignitor (I'll have to find out what they are first, hehe), and I'll keep y'all posted. Thnx again, and hey, keep the suggestions coming, they've all been helpful.

 

pull out one of your plug wires stuff 1 of your old plugs in it and touch the side of the plug to ground and have someone crank it if you see a spark on the plug then its probly not ignition related imo

 

Is there any way of finding out whether or not this might be ignitor or ignition module related?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by odogg726 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there any way of finding out whether or not this might be ignitor or ignition module related? </TD></TR></TABLE>

just check if the spark plugs are sparking. take off a sparkplug wire with a sparkplug attached to it. while some one is cracking the car over, ground the sparkplug onto a bolt on the motor and see if it sparks or not.