who got z10's what you think of em
who got z10's what you think of em
im thinking of getting a set, how do they help for wheel hop? easy to mess with? i got a stock susp so far. but have crazy wheel hop all the time
im thinking of getting a set, how do they help for wheel hop? easy to mess with? i got a stock susp so far. but have crazy wheel hop all the time
so you think i an still gain even though my susp is still stokc for the moment
any probs on the install? probs with adjusting ?
any probs on the install? probs with adjusting ?
so you think i an still gain even though my susp is still stokc for the moment
any probs on the install? probs with adjusting ?
any probs on the install? probs with adjusting ?

The installation of the main cross bar was a little tricky. It goes across the front right under the radiator, and mounts to the holes where the tow hooks gp (tow hooks will be removed). It's a tight fit and somewhat difficult to line all the holes up, but once you get one in loosely on each side it's better. I used a jack to help push the bar up into place. Unfortunately I was a little overzealous, and cross threaded the frame hole when installing one of the bolts. One day (probably never) I will go and retap it and put in the last bolt (I'm using 3/4 now). But the way the flanges sit, the bolts just hold the bar in place anyways, and don't do any work really, so it's all good.
I used 2 or 3 complete turns of preload (make bar shorter, pull LCA toward front) on each side. I did it while getting an alignment, and the camber/caster/toe numbers didn't change at all.
hth
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so you think i an still gain even though my susp is still stokc for the moment
any probs on the install? probs with adjusting ?
any probs on the install? probs with adjusting ?

The installation of the main cross bar was a little tricky. It goes across the front right under the radiator, and mounts to the holes where the tow hooks gp (tow hooks will be removed). It's a tight fit and somewhat difficult to line all the holes up, but once you get one in loosely on each side it's better. I used a jack to help push the bar up into place. Unfortunately I was a little overzealous, and cross threaded the frame hole when installing one of the bolts. One day (probably never) I will go and retap it and put in the last bolt (I'm using 3/4 now). But the way the flanges sit, the bolts just hold the bar in place anyways, and don't do any work really, so it's all good.
I used 2 or 3 complete turns of preload (make bar shorter, pull LCA toward front) on each side. I did it while getting an alignment, and the camber/caster/toe numbers didn't change at all.
hth
do u guys have a link for that and how much is that

I bought my bars through the intial group buy last year for around $340 or so.
[Modified by sackdz, 3:50 PM 6/12/2002]
they are 389 there. unless you gotta call them and say your with ht? and they give you a discount?
b18bturbo is selling thme for 356 shipped right now . thats where i was gonna get em from .
b18bturbo is selling thme for 356 shipped right now . thats where i was gonna get em from .
How do they effect handleing, will the car turn in better? Does it help get power down comin out of the corner. I know the drag benefits....but i was wonderin for road course/ auto-x / spirited street drivin Etc...
handling wise it will help you pull out of corning, but it wont hurt your corning speed at all, you wont lose any turning radius, there will be no ill effects from z10 radius arms
They work if they're set up right.
You probably know that i've done my fair share of drag racing.
Until you have them set nearly perfect, you're still going to get wheel hop.
I was having axle breaking problems, and these seemed to help out a bit.
I still get wheel hop, but not as violent as stock.
Invest in some motor mount inserts also.
You probably know that i've done my fair share of drag racing.
Until you have them set nearly perfect, you're still going to get wheel hop.
I was having axle breaking problems, and these seemed to help out a bit.
I still get wheel hop, but not as violent as stock.
Invest in some motor mount inserts also.
Well the lowest point is higher than the bottom of the LCA, so unless you're scraping those you should be okay
sack-who just saw he dented the **** out of his header, has a bent rear tie bar, and has no clue how it happened
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