Best Cams for daily driving!
I am looking for a set of cams for my GSR. What's the best cams for daily driving and won't have idle problem? any post would help me decide what to buy.
thanks
thanks
Any "stage 1" cam. Just keep the lift below 12mm. Milder cams require less of a compression increase, tend to have fewer idle issues, and you may be able to get away with not upgrading the valvesprings in you don't raise your redline.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by starcraftbw »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks very much, If i replace VALVE SPRINGS. Do I need to replace RETAINERS? Can i still use stock GSR retainers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
change the retainers also.
change the retainers also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running bc3 cams, supertech dual valve springs, and supertech flat valves, stock gsr retainers. daily driven until i recently blew my motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is not exactly a ringing endorsement
That is not exactly a ringing endorsement
You can use stock retainers and you'll be fine. Their not alot of money to buy a complete new set, which is what I did when I installed my Spoon cams. There are only 2 reasons to get aftermarket retainers: Improved heat dissipation and reduced valvetrain weight....2 things you don't need to worry about with a mild all motor build. I prefer OEM part reliability.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running bc3 cams, supertech dual valve springs, and supertech flat valves, stock gsr retainers. daily driven until i recently blew my motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
mishift? over revving? CAMS dont break a motor unless their not installed properly, or not degreed properly...in this case this dude, probably threw em in and had v2v or p2v contact.. who knows..more info?
mishift? over revving? CAMS dont break a motor unless their not installed properly, or not degreed properly...in this case this dude, probably threw em in and had v2v or p2v contact.. who knows..more info?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is not exactly a ringing endorsement
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL!
my guess is that it wasn't the cams, but since he posted that, my guess is some people might think that it was.
That is not exactly a ringing endorsement
</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL!
my guess is that it wasn't the cams, but since he posted that, my guess is some people might think that it was.
i was gonna use skunk2 stage 2 in my jdm gsr, until i sold them
i kinda want to try s2 p1's though but i may just get a set og blox type c's (to avoid getting a set of the old jun cams that snap)
i kinda want to try s2 p1's though but i may just get a set og blox type c's (to avoid getting a set of the old jun cams that snap)
your right, should have elaborated more. The setup lasted over 20,000 miles. Valve smacked a pistons and cracked the sleeve. I'm thinking it was caused by a slipping of the timing belt. Head was milled 0.01" But if that was an issue it would have happened sooner, during anyone of my many revs to 8700 rpm, not after 20K miles. Since you mention p2v clearance, what is the minimum? I wanna clay my motor but not sure what the minimum clearance is?
yeah, im 99% sure that it was the timing belt that skipped a tooth, but when i tore the motor apart, the belt was just as tight as it was 20k miles ago when i first built it.
for street driving i would go with civic type r camshafts. honda engineers know what they are doing when building performance engines. you cant go wrong. flat torque curve and a good powerband.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donnie_437 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for street driving i would go with civic type r camshafts. honda engineers know what they are doing when building performance engines. you cant go wrong. flat torque curve and a good powerband. </TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong, go big or go home
i wouldnt go any larger than the skunk pro 1 on a bone stock gsr motor
but that leaves bc3+, bc4, s2s1,s2s2, rm22x, rm21, ctr, itr, toda a's and b's and c's, jun3, and a ton of other cams out there
wrong, go big or go home
i wouldnt go any larger than the skunk pro 1 on a bone stock gsr motor
but that leaves bc3+, bc4, s2s1,s2s2, rm22x, rm21, ctr, itr, toda a's and b's and c's, jun3, and a ton of other cams out there
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how long did it last? I thought cams is quite reliable though

