I run in a DC5 in hpde 4, and a few days ago my abs line along with my brake line snapped( Drivers Front). I've replaced with new ones but the abs light is still on and it seems that the abs is not working correctly.

Now under hard braking the car jerks to the right badly.
Even during normal braking conditions the abs seems to kick on when the brake peddle is applied 30%. At this point in time I'm curious as to who runs abs in their cars and who doesn't. Is there really an advantage for using it on track? I'm considering just removing the abs for less headaches.
I'm trying to get the car ready for H2 so a BBK is out of the question, so any info you can give me is much appreciated.

 

BBK is legal for H2 now.

I keep the ABS as it rocks in the rain. In the dry I prefer not to use it so I pull the fuse.

 

I better re ready the rules again then.
I have a rsx-s and with the mods allowed the bbk was out of the question.
Also I run in Arizona and it rains maybe 2 days if we are lucky.
Thanks for the info thou.

 

I'd say it depends on if the ABS system is worthwhile or not when functioning properly. Some are good, others are almost downright dangerous. I've never driven a Type S before, so I couldn't tell you, unfortunately.

FWIW, I don't use ABS, and prefer it that way.

 

If you have a decent ABS, I would run it. It allows you to use the brakes in many situations that you otherwise could not. Any time the available traction differs between the right and left tires, you are entering a relm that ABS is uniquely suited to deal with, and one that no driver can address.

Some may try to get you to remove it by questioning your manhood , but if your ABS is quality, ignore them. They are probably a competitor of yours who wishes they had it.

 

if i remember, dc5 abs is pritty good. like dc2 abs. the prelude abs (older style) is horrible. personally i have never owned a track car with abs. most of the time i dont care. but for those times when im idling through the padock and realize i flatspotted a rear w/o knowing, i'd like to have it.

 

same story here; i have never driven a dc5, but the abs on my 95 del sol is great. i love it on track, and it definitely helps save money on the flat spots. now, if only it could stop 90 degree spin out flat spots....

 

I don't run abs and like it that way. I'm pretty competent with pedal modulation, so it really doesn't become a problem. I can't remember the last time I locked up for more then a sec, and I brake late/trail brake quite a bit. You just have to feel/listen.

For me the weight is an advantage too, however I'm not sure what your weight requirements are for H2, so it may not matter.

ABS on a track car isn't bad either, there are advantages, but I'm definitely not a fan. It gets in the way for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gotocrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a decent ABS, I would run it. It allows you to use the brakes in many situations that you otherwise could not. Any time the available traction differs between the right and left tires, you are entering a relm that ABS is uniquely suited to deal with, and one that no driver can address.

Some may try to get you to remove it by questioning your manhood , but if your ABS is quality, ignore them. They are probably a competitor of yours who wishes they had it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very well played sir! These are words of wisdom.

 

yea this thread ive been thinkin of for abit and yes my buddy ?ed my manhood. haha. in for more opinions. :thumbsup:

 

I do appreciate the info from everyone.
Requirements for H2 on the DC5 are 2700 pds with driver

Abs has helped but at the moments im having problems with it such as it engaging at 20% braking.

I'll see if I can repair it, but after the input I WILL keep abs.

 

Look to see if you have a sticky rear caliper. That was my problem a few months back. It seemed like every corner was causing the car to ABS, even with light braking. I found the passenger's side rear caliper was sticking. Once I replaced the caliper, the problem went away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Look to see if you have a sticky rear caliper. That was my problem a few months back. It seemed like every corner was causing the car to ABS, even with light braking. I found the passenger's side rear caliper was sticking. Once I replaced the caliper, the problem went away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The abs problems happened after the driver brake line and abs line were snapped.
I was running a SS brake line. I replaced the lines and re-bleed the system.

Abs light was off now since I had replaced the sensor as well. I took the car around the block to make sure everything was working correctly. I took the car at residential speeds (15-20mph) and at almost every stop when the brake was engagde 20-25% the abs system would kick on for no reason.

The abs light comes on and off while driving now.

I also took it to normal driving speeds 45mph and brake hard and the car jolted to the right. It almost seems as if the driver caliper is not working properly.

I am doing a complete tear down of the driver side brake, suspension to check for anything. Any suggestions on what to keep an eye out for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f1nal zeros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The abs problems happened after the driver brake line and abs line were snapped.
I was running a SS brake line. I replaced the lines and re-bleed the system.

Abs light was off now since I had replaced the sensor as well. I took the car around the block to make sure everything was working correctly. I took the car at residential speeds (15-20mph) and at almost every stop when the brake was engagde 20-25% the abs system would kick on for no reason.

The abs light comes on and off while driving now.

I also took it to normal driving speeds 45mph and brake hard and the car jolted to the right. It almost seems as if the driver caliper is not working properly.

I am doing a complete tear down of the driver side brake, suspension to check for anything. Any suggestions on what to keep an eye out for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is possible that when the line snapped and fluid shot out, some air made it's way into the ABS modulator. Most modern Honda ABS systems use a recycling ABS fluid system that shares the same fluid as the rest of the brake system. This means once air gets into the ABS, it can be quite difficult to get out again. Of course if this were the case, you would probably have a mushy pedal...

You might want to have a nearby dealer use their ABS/SRS system check tool on your car to cycle all the ABS solenoids. This would get any trapped air out of the modulator and back into the main lines where it could be bleed out like normal.

This is just a thought.

On a similar subject, I was wondering what peoples opinions were about the EG Civic/Sol & early 94-97 DC2 3 channel ABS systems vs. the later 98+ DC2 4 channel ABS systems? I have been contemplating adding one of these systems to my street EG hatch for some time now. Obviously the 3 channel system would be easier since it is made specifically for my chassis, but the 4 channel DC2 system seems like it would easily out perform it making it worth the extra hassle (it's also 25lbs+ lighter). What are your guys thoughts?

WrongWD's testimony about the effectiveness of 3-channel ABS on the track is starting to make me reconsider...

 

I like leaving the ABS operational.

Remember, for maximum braking, you want to be doing "threshold braking", using the brakes at the threshold of locking up, but not actually doing so. If you're doing that properly, the ABS won't activate. The ABS will only do anything if you're overbraking and locking them up. IOW, the ABS tells you when you are overbraking.

Oh, and ABS is awesome in the rain...