looking to pick up a local h22, seller said it needs thrust washers...
washers/bearings whatever. i'm going to talk with him tomorrow, going to ask him how he knows it needs them, and if it needs anything else.
but before i do that, if anyone out there knows, what would cause a motor to need these? and if it needs them, what else might likely need replacing and/or be damaged? i spun my h23 (one main and three rod) and i don't want another bottom end issue anytime soon.
i searched a bit but didn't come up with solid info as to what is associated with a motor that "needs" thrust bearings. thanks for any info
but before i do that, if anyone out there knows, what would cause a motor to need these? and if it needs them, what else might likely need replacing and/or be damaged? i spun my h23 (one main and three rod) and i don't want another bottom end issue anytime soon.
i searched a bit but didn't come up with solid info as to what is associated with a motor that "needs" thrust bearings. thanks for any info
If you dont want anymore bottom end issues then why would you start with an engine that has an obvious problem...Why not order an H22A longblock?
i thought anyone responding would assume that i'm going to fix it first. i don't mind doing that as long as the crank/journals/cap isn't phucked.
i'll fix it if it needs minor bottom end work, seeing as how this guy is selling it dirt cheap.
i'll fix it if it needs minor bottom end work, seeing as how this guy is selling it dirt cheap.
How major is swapping the bearings along with the washers? Don't even have to remove the crank... I'd swap all the bearings with new ones while you're in there. Then you'd be safe I'd assume, as far as bottom ends goes.
You can even re-surface your journals with like 1000 grit sand paper strips, and clean them up real nice before putting the new bearings on.
If it's that cheap, then might as well throw 4-6 hours into it and have a somewhat permanent solution and a real cheap lude.
You can even re-surface your journals with like 1000 grit sand paper strips, and clean them up real nice before putting the new bearings on.
If it's that cheap, then might as well throw 4-6 hours into it and have a somewhat permanent solution and a real cheap lude.
its not much work, but yes the crank does have to be removed to get to your main bearings. just don't like doin it much. but it's a hell of a deal so i'll probably pick it up.
i was going to do all the bearings/washers/mains/oil pump anyway, but i was just asking this because i don't want to buy it, think "oh ill just replace the washers" and it ends up being that they need replacement because they're all
'd
i was going to do all the bearings/washers/mains/oil pump anyway, but i was just asking this because i don't want to buy it, think "oh ill just replace the washers" and it ends up being that they need replacement because they're all
'd
the crank doesn't have to be really removed to change bearings, but it would be good to remove it and check the journals and stuff.
the best thing to do is to tear it down and look at everything yourself before you shell out some change to buy it
the best thing to do is to tear it down and look at everything yourself before you shell out some change to buy it
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How do you change the main bearings without removing the crank? That's impossible!
When you look at the engine, measure the crank end play. If it's out of spec, look at the thrust washers, area of the crank that contacts the thrust washers, and inspect the block. There is only one thickness of thrust washer for an H22, so if the end play is out of spec, and the thrust washers are in spec, either the block or the crank is junk.
BTW, there are only two thrust washers in the engine.
When you look at the engine, measure the crank end play. If it's out of spec, look at the thrust washers, area of the crank that contacts the thrust washers, and inspect the block. There is only one thickness of thrust washer for an H22, so if the end play is out of spec, and the thrust washers are in spec, either the block or the crank is junk.
BTW, there are only two thrust washers in the engine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you change the main bearings without removing the crank? That's impossible!
When you look at the engine, measure the crank end play. If it's out of spec, look at the thrust washers, area of the crank that contacts the thrust washers, and inspect the block. There is only one thickness of thrust washer for an H22, so if the end play is out of spec, and the thrust washers are in spec, either the block or the crank is junk.
BTW, there are only two thrust washers in the engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you only change the half teh bearings, duh
When you look at the engine, measure the crank end play. If it's out of spec, look at the thrust washers, area of the crank that contacts the thrust washers, and inspect the block. There is only one thickness of thrust washer for an H22, so if the end play is out of spec, and the thrust washers are in spec, either the block or the crank is junk.
BTW, there are only two thrust washers in the engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you only change the half teh bearings, duh
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you only change the half teh bearings, duh
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, because that's a really good idea.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, because that's a really good idea.
[QUOTE=117]How do you change the main bearings without removing the crank? That's impossible!
actually it is possible, i have done it before at the track. you have to fish the top halves out by pushing on the edge of the bearing and rolling it around the crank journal. its actually not all that big of a deal.
to the op, there is a reason it needs thrust washers.....either there is a problem causing them to get chewed up in which case the crank and possible the block are damaged......or the motor has so much wear on it, you wouldnt want to use that crank anyway. if all it needs is thrust washers the seller probably would have just replaced them instead of swapping out the block because he was already in there to see it needed them anyway.
actually it is possible, i have done it before at the track. you have to fish the top halves out by pushing on the edge of the bearing and rolling it around the crank journal. its actually not all that big of a deal.
to the op, there is a reason it needs thrust washers.....either there is a problem causing them to get chewed up in which case the crank and possible the block are damaged......or the motor has so much wear on it, you wouldnt want to use that crank anyway. if all it needs is thrust washers the seller probably would have just replaced them instead of swapping out the block because he was already in there to see it needed them anyway.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So when you do the bearings without removing the crank, do you even bother to check the clearances?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i did it at the track to go rounds and finish the day. i didnt say it was the right way to do it, i just said it was infact possible just to correct your previous statement of "thats impossible"
i did it at the track to go rounds and finish the day. i didnt say it was the right way to do it, i just said it was infact possible just to correct your previous statement of "thats impossible"
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