How much u spend$$
So i had saved up enough money in the early summer to confidently go about turboing my 98GSR....then to my goodluck i spun a bearing in the lower end so my piggy bank went to a new motor...now at the end of summer i have enough saved up again to go about it and looking to doing it for the fall n storing it over the winter..
with everything and a good tune i was looking at around 2300$ with parting it together and a new turbonetics turbo....recently local guy i was talking to with a teg said he peiced a kit together for less than 700$!! how much did u guys spend on ur turbo kit and what are some parts that are O.K. to buy used ex. intercooler BOV etc
with everything and a good tune i was looking at around 2300$ with parting it together and a new turbonetics turbo....recently local guy i was talking to with a teg said he peiced a kit together for less than 700$!! how much did u guys spend on ur turbo kit and what are some parts that are O.K. to buy used ex. intercooler BOV etc
xs power for 700 dollars maybe
I say stick your budget and plans. If you get a new quality turbo and quality parts pieced together 2300 should just about make it if you leave the engine untouched.
beware of cheap $hit. you pay cheap you get cheap.
I personally have spent aout 3500 alone on turbo stuff including exhaust and misc stuff. then internal engine suff is even more on top of that.
I say stick your budget and plans. If you get a new quality turbo and quality parts pieced together 2300 should just about make it if you leave the engine untouched.
beware of cheap $hit. you pay cheap you get cheap.
I personally have spent aout 3500 alone on turbo stuff including exhaust and misc stuff. then internal engine suff is even more on top of that.
$3500-4000ish
The clutch, EMS, Injectors, Fuel Pump, and tune time is just as much of the price of a turbo kit as the turbocharger and wastegate are.
The clutch, EMS, Injectors, Fuel Pump, and tune time is just as much of the price of a turbo kit as the turbocharger and wastegate are.
A used manifold or a CDM cast manifold + 38mm blockoff + steel brush (to clean the flakes off on the inside) $150
Used but mint Holset HX35 $350
Some piping and couplers for $200 an IC $200, get a downpipe fabbed for $100 and of course get some vacuum hoses ($20 will buy enough to cover your car). Don't forget the pshh-pshh, ebay and junkyards got your back with 1G DSM, Greddy Type-S style and HKS SSQV style BOVs. The rest is fuel managment and that'll cost you $800ish for a chipburner/ostrich, wideband, injectors and pump.
Used but mint Holset HX35 $350
Some piping and couplers for $200 an IC $200, get a downpipe fabbed for $100 and of course get some vacuum hoses ($20 will buy enough to cover your car). Don't forget the pshh-pshh, ebay and junkyards got your back with 1G DSM, Greddy Type-S style and HKS SSQV style BOVs. The rest is fuel managment and that'll cost you $800ish for a chipburner/ostrich, wideband, injectors and pump.
after everything i've spent about $4-5k....i dont remember anymore. The one thing i have learned is that if you half *** something, you end up redoing it eventually....do things right the first time and you'll spend less in the long run
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after everything i've spent about $4-5k....i dont remember anymore. The one thing i have learned is that if you half *** something, you end up redoing it eventually....do things right the first time and you'll spend less in the long run
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theres no other way do it right once
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theres no other way do it right once
I have over $4,500 in the turbo kit alone not counting what I have in the motor and everything else. Listen to everyone who is telling you to do it right the first time, you will thank yourself for taking that advice. I know I have.
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most u guys spent like 4-5k on the initial parts? damnn.. there are full kits for like 3k... pieceing one together i cant see spending more then 2500$ i have a budget that i wouldent wanna go much over 3k that would be topss
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec8804 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most u guys spent like 4-5k on the initial parts? damnn.. there are full kits for like 3k... pieceing one together i cant see spending more then 2500$ i have a budget that i wouldent wanna go much over 3k that would be topss</TD></TR></TABLE>
then turbocharging and having a healthy motor are not with your limits better start the weight reduction and all motor build up
then turbocharging and having a healthy motor are not with your limits better start the weight reduction and all motor build up
It depends on what your power goals are really. If you just want 220 whp or so, I could see you getting away with only 2,000 + clutch and exhaust for decent parts, some used. Some people are just unaware you don't need a BLAH-FAB/FULL-RACE latest, tytest, maddest equal length manifold and a BB turbo to make a little more power than stock. Those are the dudes who you see buying control arms and all kinds of worthless braces, just because they're shiny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wakedoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It depends on what your power goals are really. If you just want 220 whp or so, I could see you getting away with only 2,000 + clutch and exhaust for decent parts, some used. Some people are just unaware you don't need a BLAH-FAB/FULL-RACE latest, tytest, maddest equal length manifold and a BB turbo to make a little more power than stock. Those are the dudes who you see buying control arms and all kinds of worthless braces, just because they're shiny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol hey thats not nice traction bars work kinda
lol hey thats not nice traction bars work kinda
I don't think it's about being oblivios to being able to 'get the job done' with other parts.
Some people, like myself, like to have a great platform to grow with and work off of, and the 'latest/tytest/badest' parts as your speaking of, do help make power efficiently, which is really the most important aspect of a build - EFFICIENCY.
Some people, like myself, like to have a great platform to grow with and work off of, and the 'latest/tytest/badest' parts as your speaking of, do help make power efficiently, which is really the most important aspect of a build - EFFICIENCY.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think it's about being oblivios to being able to 'get the job done' with other parts.
Some people, like myself, like to have a great platform to grow with and work off of, and the 'latest/tytest/badest' parts as your speaking of, do help make power efficiently, which is really the most important aspect of a build - EFFICIENCY.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much power can you expect to make on stock internals with day in day out reliability? Now ask yourself if those parts are needed. Hell you could even make over 200 with the stock pump.
Some people, like myself, like to have a great platform to grow with and work off of, and the 'latest/tytest/badest' parts as your speaking of, do help make power efficiently, which is really the most important aspect of a build - EFFICIENCY.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much power can you expect to make on stock internals with day in day out reliability? Now ask yourself if those parts are needed. Hell you could even make over 200 with the stock pump.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wakedoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much power can you expect to make on stock internals with day in day out reliability? Now ask yourself if those parts are needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A lot. My stock motor went through ~30,000 turbo miles, 3 different setups, 3 different turbos, making mid 300's on pump.
Turned up the boost on race gas, made mid 400's to the wheels, ended up dipping into the 10's, and drove home from the track. Didn't have to swap out parts, just turned the boost up.
In that timeframe, the car has seen 2xx passes with no issues.
Why spend the money to go with a kit that in the long run will be more a hinderance than a benefit to someone?
Spend the money on quality parts that give you some room to grow, do it right the first time, and you'll save yourself the headache, aggravation, and money of doing it twice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wakedoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hell you could even make over 200 with the stock pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure, you could, but why would you want to? To save $100 instead of buying a Walbro? What's the next suggestion...that EMS isn't needed and a FMU will be fine?
A lot. My stock motor went through ~30,000 turbo miles, 3 different setups, 3 different turbos, making mid 300's on pump.
Turned up the boost on race gas, made mid 400's to the wheels, ended up dipping into the 10's, and drove home from the track. Didn't have to swap out parts, just turned the boost up.
In that timeframe, the car has seen 2xx passes with no issues.
Why spend the money to go with a kit that in the long run will be more a hinderance than a benefit to someone?
Spend the money on quality parts that give you some room to grow, do it right the first time, and you'll save yourself the headache, aggravation, and money of doing it twice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wakedoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hell you could even make over 200 with the stock pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure, you could, but why would you want to? To save $100 instead of buying a Walbro? What's the next suggestion...that EMS isn't needed and a FMU will be fine?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What's the next suggestion...that EMS isn't needed and a FMU will be fine?
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Damn you're psychic. I was also gonna suggest twin-turbonators instead of a turbo.
lol i see what u mean though
What's the next suggestion...that EMS isn't needed and a FMU will be fine?
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Damn you're psychic. I was also gonna suggest twin-turbonators instead of a turbo.
lol i see what u mean though
you can do it pretty cheap, get a nice cast manifold, a 57 or 60 trim t3t04e .63 garrett, ebay for the intercooler and piping, hit stealthmode for a oil line kit, send your ecu out and get it chipped and a basemap on it, 3" downpipe exhaust, tuning and fuel injectors can set you back pretty far
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can do it pretty cheap, </TD></TR></TABLE>
Its true, you CAN build a setup cheap, but like a1320addict was saying...why build something that's going to be a hinderance. Do things right the first time and you'll have an efficient setup that is capable of making good power
Its true, you CAN build a setup cheap, but like a1320addict was saying...why build something that's going to be a hinderance. Do things right the first time and you'll have an efficient setup that is capable of making good power
my goals would be high 200's on a reliable setup, pump gas, basically a DD...im not looking for a 500whp track rocket pretty much....what about upkeep, whats reg matienance and what parts are going bad cost x$$?
I've a couple buddies who went the HMT route in the $600-900 range (not including tuning) with good results, 225-275 whp stock engine stuff. You have to be a decent mechanic and okay fabricator to pull it off, it's not the route for everyone but if you understand the system and don't mind hard work it's doable with decent quality parts.
I have $5000 in my 88 STD, including car and everything bolted to it. Target is 500 whp and high 9's. I'll have no problems making the power and laying it down reliably, but getting the suspension up to snuff so it hooks on slicks, plus the cost of the slicks, will set me back another grand. There are a lot of parts I was more or less given on the car, some high dollar flossing bits I felt important, and everyone on the planet will think they have a better idea about what I should have done for a manifold.
You can buy a new OEM-quality Garrett turbo, use one of the CDM castings ported so the casting flash is gone, a quality REAL TiAL wastegate, source oil feed and drain bits at a local supplier for 2/3rds what they sell for online plus shipping, and then go with inexpensive ICs and BOVs (used, etc) in the $1400-1700 range not including tuning. Be prepared to make your own charge pipe and wield a sawzall and welder, but you will end up with a good quality setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wakedoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A used manifold or a CDM cast manifold + 38mm blockoff + steel brush (to clean the flakes off on the inside) $150
Used but mint Holset HX35 $350
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The HX35 fits onto those?? Can I see a picture? I have a couple HX35 offered to me currently for a stupid price, but they are a fitment nightmare.
I have $5000 in my 88 STD, including car and everything bolted to it. Target is 500 whp and high 9's. I'll have no problems making the power and laying it down reliably, but getting the suspension up to snuff so it hooks on slicks, plus the cost of the slicks, will set me back another grand. There are a lot of parts I was more or less given on the car, some high dollar flossing bits I felt important, and everyone on the planet will think they have a better idea about what I should have done for a manifold.
You can buy a new OEM-quality Garrett turbo, use one of the CDM castings ported so the casting flash is gone, a quality REAL TiAL wastegate, source oil feed and drain bits at a local supplier for 2/3rds what they sell for online plus shipping, and then go with inexpensive ICs and BOVs (used, etc) in the $1400-1700 range not including tuning. Be prepared to make your own charge pipe and wield a sawzall and welder, but you will end up with a good quality setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wakedoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A used manifold or a CDM cast manifold + 38mm blockoff + steel brush (to clean the flakes off on the inside) $150
Used but mint Holset HX35 $350
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The HX35 fits onto those?? Can I see a picture? I have a couple HX35 offered to me currently for a stupid price, but they are a fitment nightmare.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you seen very many 'budget' kits? They are janky as hell. Do yourself a favor and don't use used turbos or abused parts...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fixed it for you. I've never met an undented used IC, or set of clean used Precision injectors I didn't like. On the other hand, any "used for 500 miles" turbo needs rebuilt, in my experience.
Fixed it for you. I've never met an undented used IC, or set of clean used Precision injectors I didn't like. On the other hand, any "used for 500 miles" turbo needs rebuilt, in my experience.




