So with the egr valve and o2 sensors priced between $225.86 and $277.53 each at the stealership I really hope they don't have to be replaced in regular like 30k mi maintenance. [I]/I]My new 4th generation toy is running good I guess, the idle is smooth, got 27 mpg on the first tank with a can of Techron cleaner in it, doing mostly 80mph on the highway and city driving. Acceleration does not bog down, but I've felt a small surge like activity a few times when using the cruise control. Does this car have a fuel evaporator canister?

There are 20 "ticks" in this mod fuel guage, when I got down to only one of them it took only 13 gallons of gas. So there are 2 gallons left after the guage shows empty?

The parts guy at Hendrick's Honda told me that in the H22 motors the urgency to change the timing belt at the specific intervals like in the smaller motors wasn't that great. He said you didn't run the risk of doing high dollar damage in the bigger 4 bangers. This one was done at 135k. I'm at 200 now, think I might go 50k more if I keep the pedal off the floor?

Is the high rear end ratio the cause of my rpms being at 4k when I'm cruising at 80mph?? Or is this just a 4 cylinder issue?

The plugs weren't changed recently, NGK platinums good for the stock H22A1?
How about the cap and rotor, wires which brand should I go with, I loved what the Magnecor 8.5's and MSD Blaster did for my Chevy. Are the rules different here with an auto from Sayama City?

I know there's a lot in this post, but I've got limited rights now.

I hope that soon I can contribute back with my learned VTEC knowledge. I've already seen a couple post asking "What is" about things I've mentioned....

and YES:
Water Wetter is great if you live in FL or somewhere else hot/never freezing and completely flush the cooling system/replace with distilled h2o and this product. Had a car with a reverse flow system/dry intake manifold when I used this.

Cerwin Vega made (makes ?) speakers of audiophile quality like JBL. Not muddy bass, clear vocals and riffs. Ten years ago they made killer SS-2693 6x9s and Vega 6002 6"s that took all my JBL GTQ190 put in `em.

 

I have never heard of anyone changing egr or o2 every 30k. I don't even think they have service intervals. If either starts to go you will get a cel since they are major parts of the emissions reduction. I think there is an evap canister but I am too lazy to look at a helms right now.

I have put over 16 gallons of gas in my car before. I have driven just over 440 miles before on a single tank of gas without stoping. The gauge hides a lot at the top and the bottom.

I wouldn't trust "The parts guy at Hendrick's Honda" to look at my car if he said that. I broke a t-belt on my h23 at 121k and bent several valves. I haven't opened it up to see if I stamped any pistons but either way it cost less to by an H22A than it did to fix the one I had. Most if not all current Honda engines are interference designs. That means that if a valve is left open enough the piston will hit it. You would only not have major damage if it were a non interference design or you got really lucky. I would say replace your tbelt at 125 or sooner and diy.

We only have 5 speeds and no granny gears. All gears are made to be usable and will pull till redline on h23 or h22 unless you have a speed limiter. However a taller gear might not give better mileage. It depends. If you want taller gears get an h23 trans if you are not using one already. I have h22 with h23 trans and I like it. But some people on this board will disagree and several use an aftermarket final gear to get really short gears. It is all personal preference and what you want the car to do.

Those plugs are fine. Get oem cap and rotor unless you are making a lot of power.

 

Thats great news for me about the o2's and the huge egr.

Yep I've had gas gauges a lot worse than this before. 1 of those marks left means 2.9 gal at 27 miles each that's ample time to find gas.

He was working at the parts counter not a mechanic. I asked him about some OEM parts prices and he gave me a scary printout. $21.87 each for a sparkplug. They can dream on, and that's a lot more nice than what I'm really thinking now. I wouldn't afford them to work on my car anyhow besides the 4 wheel alignment they did for a decent price, $60.00 right after the new Kumho ASX's went on.

I was just curious about those cruising rpms, won't be changing gears or putting $2000.00 racing transmissions in a car ever again. It's too easy for a stupid to take it away from you because they are daydreaming behind the wheel. Besides this car has decent acceleration changing at 3500 after the initial quick first to second.

Dude, I appreciate the intelligent response, not the first one I've had here either.

 

Honda says to use on platinum tip plugs with a 1.3 mm gap. "Make sure that the 1.3mm plug gauge does not go into the gap for platinum tip plug. If the gauge goes into the gap, do not attempt to adjust the side electrode; replace the plug with a new one." From the service manual. It also says use ZFR6F-11 (NGK) OR KJ20CR-L11 (ND) for normal driving and ZFR7G-11 (NGK) OR PK22PR-L11 (ND) for hot climates of continuous high speed driving. That is why they are so expensive but you could probably get them cheaper elsewhere.

 

WRd. i got my plugs from autozone(local parts store) for @12 bucks. recently did my tune up as well. Im @ 161k still running strong.

Bought
ND plugs
Bosch Plug wires
oil filter
oil
air filter

all for around 85 bux i'd like to change my gaskets tho.. oil seems to be leaking from my oil pan.