Hello, I have searched but I really couldn't find enough information in a K build that I will be doing. It will be done by a very reputable guy in NJ and he will do the build himself and do all the prep and all to make it kit into my EK hatch.

The decision is between:

Head: K20a2 (upgraded springs and maybe some pro1s)

Block: K24a2 or K20a2?


Considering both blocks will have after market pistons and rods and it will be Tuned on 93 octane and it will be a daily driver what would you guys prefer? My builders prefers me to go with the k20a2 because of smaller stroke and the ability to rev more. I also know that the k24 sits very low (19mm) difference between the two oil pans and I really like that fact but I just would like some opinions from others?

 

k24 bottom end, k20 type r top end. and if your really lookin to spend some money 2.8L stroker kit

 

K24 bottem end will make some really good torque numbers and I have seen quite a few of them last a long time.

 

Yes the k24 will produce more torque but i am thinking that it might be too much on street tires and wind up making them just spin all the time..

 

I have a friend of mine that has the k20 head k24 block setup. He has ITBs, Kpro, and a set of cams. The block is bone stock. He runs 12.0 consistently on slicks. Take the slicks away and maybe he will run a 13.0. I dont know about you, but a little traction loss is ok with me if Im running high 12s low 13s on street tires all motor with a bone stock block.

 

which ITB's is he running im building a k2420 also but im gonna try to shoehorn it in a 91 hb

 

K24

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by makavali27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes the k24 will produce more torque but i am thinking that it might be too much on street tires and wind up making them just spin all the time..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go K24 and learn to modulate the throttle to control traction.

Haven't you realized yet that there's no such thing as too much power?

 

Im not positive on the ITB setup he has I can ask him. I do know that they had to cut the hood. This is in a eg.

 

so everyone prefers the K24 I see? How about the fact that it can't rev as much as the k20 can?

 

Why do you need to rev it out. If your making all your power down at 6800 vs. 7500 whats the diffrence especially if you making 10-15 more ft/lbs of torque with the k24

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by makavali27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so everyone prefers the K24 I see? How about the fact that it can't rev as much as the k20 can?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make the power then match gearing for the power. Who cares if you can't rev to 15,000rpm if you're making 280whp by 7,500?

 

I would like to have more torque especially having the heavier ek hatch. The only problem is that the k24 sits very low so that 19mm does make a difference in clearance issues...in NJ the streets sucks and this is my only car..

 

anyone else have opinions??

 

who cares about the revs, you want that power.

 

not everyone, I would go with the K20. We have been running a K24 for 3 years now and I wish I would have gone with the K20. Traction owns me even on a 25" slick and when I drive it one the street its like walking on ice with dress shoes.

 

Just get the "EKK2" mounts form HaSport, and allong with an EG subframe you can have the motor sit higher and have better axle gometry.

 

daily driving a k24 built setup?
can you say wheel spin?

do any of you guys who recommend the k24 actually own one and drive it daily?

prepare for accidental burnouts if you go k24...lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ipodhustle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">daily driving a k24 built setup?
can you say wheel spin?

do any of you guys who recommend the k24 actually own one and drive it daily?

prepare for accidental burnouts if you go k24...lol</TD></TR></TABLE>


Im going to be Daily Driving a k24 built setup in less than a month... But its also in a 2600lb car.. So Im hoping it wont be as bad as a hatch.. lol

a Buddy of Mine back in GA is driving a 04 SI with a K24A2 (TSX) With a JRSC, IPS KSC cams, k-pro, and STOCK BOTTOM END and is revving out at 8500 all day long.. no problems. SO who says you cant wind up a k24?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ipodhustle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">daily driving a k24 built setup?
can you say wheel spin?

do any of you guys who recommend the k24 actually own one and drive it daily?

prepare for accidental burnouts if you go k24...lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I guess if you seriously suck that bad at driving go with the K20 because you cant handle the extra power. There are people out there running way more power than your gonna make and they seem to be able to handle it pretty well, without "accidental burnouts."

 

Hey onefstek, do you know who has put in a eg subframe and had it sit real good? If so can I get a link if its up? Thanks alot. I would have to decide what I want pretty soon so I need to figure out what i would like to do....

 

He probally did.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well I guess if you seriously suck that bad at driving go with the K20 because you cant handle the extra power. There are people out there running way more power than your gonna make and they seem to be able to handle it pretty well, without "accidental burnouts."</TD></TR></TABLE>I make almost 220tq to the wheels and I can speak from experience, even with 225/50/15 DRs I have no traction 1,2, or 3rd gear. Hell on most tracks I have to take power away in 1st gear even on 25" slicks to get a good 60ft.

Makav here is the setup I would run on the street
K20a2or3 block
90.7mm s2000 crank
H series rods
89mm bore
13/1cr
unported type-s head
RBC mani with 70mm TB
then pick the right cams for your setup. Hytech, Skunk2, IPS, and Brian Crower all make great cams. We have won many races with the Hytech cams . Also dont believe all the dyno sheets your read online look for times and MPH the setup puts down. I have ran into many guys with Brand X cams claiming big dyno numbers that dont add up to the low MPH and time they get.Good luck

 

Yeah and your block is built. He isnt going to make nearly as much power as you are. Also I bet you can still drive the car down the street to 7-11 and not do a burnout. Am I right ? If what your saying is true than people like onefstek shouldnt even be able to drive their cars, when he dailys it everyday.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah and your block is built. He isnt going to make nearly as much power as you are. Also I bet you can still drive the car down the street to 7-11 and not do a burnout. Am I right ? If what your saying is true than people like onefstek shouldnt even be able to drive their cars, when he dailys it everyday. </TD></TR></TABLE>no all that is being said is there is a better way. If you have a K24 and a K20 that make basically the same Hp, on the street the K20 should win if both drivers are equal. Mod for mod the 20 and 24 will make about the same power with the 24 making way more Tq. Look at the inline pro car, they went faster on the K20 then they did with the K24. On the street with a FWD Tq is the enemy.

And to answer your question my car is fine on the street as long as you stay out of Vtec.