clutch problem (brand new clutch) need some advice
It's my brother's car. It's a 98' prelude that I converted to manual. It has a brand new clutch master/slave cylinder and lines. After driving the car for like 10 mins the clutch pedal engagement changes. At first the pedal engagement is about halfway down (pressing the pedal). Then after a short while it starts to engage closer to the very top of where the clutch pedal sits. Which eventually get to the point where the clutch starts to slip. It's a CC stage 4. Anyone have any insite, I'm out of ideas.
You can not adjust the engagement point on a hydraulic system. You can, however adjust the 'free play' of your clutch pedal.
If you ask me, it is a Good to have the clutch grab high than the other way around. Search "Adjust clutch" and you'll get many results.
If you ask me, it is a Good to have the clutch grab high than the other way around. Search "Adjust clutch" and you'll get many results.
I'm not tring to adjust it, I am saying it's adjusting itself. After first the pedal engagement is about halfway to the floor. After about 10-15mins it engages all the way up top then eventually causes the clutch to slip.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_ride14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can not adjust the engagement point on a hydraulic system. You can, however adjust the 'free play' of your clutch pedal.
If you ask me, it is a Good to have the clutch grab high than the other way around. Search "Adjust clutch" and you'll get many results.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're wrong.
When you adjust the rod on the master cylinder, you either have it in or out more on the whole. If you push it in more, it will move the clutch point up toward the top of the pedal's throw because the plunger will be further in, therefore it will have to displace less fluid before it reaches the "clutch point." If you go too far like this you will loose all the play up top and risk riding the clutch and ruining it prematurely.
If you pull it out some, it will move the clutch point closer to the floor because it will have to displace much more fluid before it gets to the clutch point. If you go too far like this you will not be able to fully disengage the clutch even though the pedal is all the way down.
It sounds to me like you have a leak in the lines somewhere, take a look around.
If you ask me, it is a Good to have the clutch grab high than the other way around. Search "Adjust clutch" and you'll get many results.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're wrong.
When you adjust the rod on the master cylinder, you either have it in or out more on the whole. If you push it in more, it will move the clutch point up toward the top of the pedal's throw because the plunger will be further in, therefore it will have to displace less fluid before it reaches the "clutch point." If you go too far like this you will loose all the play up top and risk riding the clutch and ruining it prematurely.
If you pull it out some, it will move the clutch point closer to the floor because it will have to displace much more fluid before it gets to the clutch point. If you go too far like this you will not be able to fully disengage the clutch even though the pedal is all the way down.
It sounds to me like you have a leak in the lines somewhere, take a look around.
did u bleed the clutch all the way??
if its a hydraulic tranny it in front of the tranny.
just look up how to bleed the clutch.
u have to have a buddy of yours there also... 1 of you must open the valve and the other pump the clutch.
if u need any help.
write back and i'll put it in "Detailed Instructions"
if its a hydraulic tranny it in front of the tranny.
just look up how to bleed the clutch.
u have to have a buddy of yours there also... 1 of you must open the valve and the other pump the clutch.
if u need any help.
write back and i'll put it in "Detailed Instructions"
Did you ever figure this problem out? I've had the exact same thing for a while now, and I can't figure out what's causing it. There are no leaks, if there was a leak, I would have seen a drop in the resevoir by now, (it's been months). I changed the master and slave cylinder and still no dice.
It seems to go with the temperature. If it's hot outside, it engages up towards the top of the stroke, if it's cold, I can't even put it in geat until the car has ran for like 10 minutes.
It seems to go with the temperature. If it's hot outside, it engages up towards the top of the stroke, if it's cold, I can't even put it in geat until the car has ran for like 10 minutes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




