Replaced stock susp. w/ Tokico Blues & Eibach Sportlines on CRX
So i replaced the stock suspension on my friends crx. he got a bunch of stuff for the car already and i volunteered to install em. i was a bit surprised he was sold tokico BLUES. i told him when i saw it, how much i crap i think of these shocks and i simply wouldnt recommend it. with sportlines no less. but i put it on anyway.
anyway, so the point of this thread is to share with you all the alignment and ride height numbers i recorded before and after.
so here they are.

take the numbers FWIW. i have previously been accurate to within 1/32 for toe. i told him to get an alignment asap and give me a copy of the printout. ride height was measured to the top of the wheel well.
three interesting things in this:
1.
the average drop is about 2". pretty close to advertised. what i wanted most to show was the CHANGE IN TOE. thats 1/8" total toe change. and it toes IN. that is significant enough to require an alignment in order to save tire wear.
i realized after thinking about it. the front toe went IN. in the past, i thought the toe might have toed OUT when lowering. thinking of the effect of the tie rod moving in as it arced up. however, i realize that the effect of negative camber change to the toe is greater. as the knuckle angles in it brings the steering arm of the knuckle closer to the rack so the tie rod pushes the rear of the knuckle out, causing the toe in.
2.
HOWEVER, the rear didnt change! i dunno, id like to think my measurements were accurate. but if they were, then i guess it adds to the fact that honda dialed out the rear toe change after 88. this was an 89 car. im tempted now to drop my 88 and record the change and compare...
3.
check out the difference in ride heights BETWEEN sides, before and after. if you notice, the right passenger side is ALWAYS higher. it was higher before, it was higher after, and even dropped a bit more than the left side. a difference of about 3/4".
point being that SO MANY TIMES when ppl lower their car, they complain about the ride heights being uneven. and so they think "something must be wrong! installation? springs?" well no. nothings wrong. it was like that BEFORE. you just didnt notice it because the wheel gap was much higher and when you slammed it, the difference between none to a little are much more discernable.
so there it is. for your information. take it or leave it.
anyway, so the point of this thread is to share with you all the alignment and ride height numbers i recorded before and after.
so here they are.

take the numbers FWIW. i have previously been accurate to within 1/32 for toe. i told him to get an alignment asap and give me a copy of the printout. ride height was measured to the top of the wheel well.
three interesting things in this:
1.
the average drop is about 2". pretty close to advertised. what i wanted most to show was the CHANGE IN TOE. thats 1/8" total toe change. and it toes IN. that is significant enough to require an alignment in order to save tire wear.
i realized after thinking about it. the front toe went IN. in the past, i thought the toe might have toed OUT when lowering. thinking of the effect of the tie rod moving in as it arced up. however, i realize that the effect of negative camber change to the toe is greater. as the knuckle angles in it brings the steering arm of the knuckle closer to the rack so the tie rod pushes the rear of the knuckle out, causing the toe in.
2.
HOWEVER, the rear didnt change! i dunno, id like to think my measurements were accurate. but if they were, then i guess it adds to the fact that honda dialed out the rear toe change after 88. this was an 89 car. im tempted now to drop my 88 and record the change and compare...
3.
check out the difference in ride heights BETWEEN sides, before and after. if you notice, the right passenger side is ALWAYS higher. it was higher before, it was higher after, and even dropped a bit more than the left side. a difference of about 3/4".
point being that SO MANY TIMES when ppl lower their car, they complain about the ride heights being uneven. and so they think "something must be wrong! installation? springs?" well no. nothings wrong. it was like that BEFORE. you just didnt notice it because the wheel gap was much higher and when you slammed it, the difference between none to a little are much more discernable.
so there it is. for your information. take it or leave it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> take it or leave it.</TD></TR></TABLE>taking it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
point being that SO MANY TIMES when ppl lower their car, they complain about the ride heights being uneven. and so they think "something must be wrong! installation? springs?" well no. nothings wrong. it was like that BEFORE. you just didnt notice it because the wheel gap was much higher and when you slammed it, the difference between none to a little are much more discernable.
so there it is. for your information. take it or leave it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
adjustable coilovers FTW!
point being that SO MANY TIMES when ppl lower their car, they complain about the ride heights being uneven. and so they think "something must be wrong! installation? springs?" well no. nothings wrong. it was like that BEFORE. you just didnt notice it because the wheel gap was much higher and when you slammed it, the difference between none to a little are much more discernable.
so there it is. for your information. take it or leave it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
adjustable coilovers FTW!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Might not be a bad idea to throw this in the FAQ section? a lil before and after?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, great information Tyson.
Yes, great information Tyson.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RanCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So is it like that for every crx? I bought a car with lowered springs H&R. And about to put some tokico blues without coilovers.
Would you suggest coilovers instead?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have tokico blues (got em for cheap) on nuspeed lowering springs (no idea what type or how old, i got them for free)
the stance is awesome, the ride quality?
i dont think there is enough of these:
....to do it justice.
when i swich to rear disc brakes im also going to take the 90-91 style rear LCA and im buying a real suspension, either that popular ground control or tein.
basically the whole you get what you pay for does apply imho to these type of setups. only an opinion, of course. but if you can wait to save up for full coilovers, i would consider it.
car looks nice when its not moving though, lol
great info tyson.
Would you suggest coilovers instead?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have tokico blues (got em for cheap) on nuspeed lowering springs (no idea what type or how old, i got them for free)
the stance is awesome, the ride quality?
i dont think there is enough of these:
....to do it justice.
when i swich to rear disc brakes im also going to take the 90-91 style rear LCA and im buying a real suspension, either that popular ground control or tein.
basically the whole you get what you pay for does apply imho to these type of setups. only an opinion, of course. but if you can wait to save up for full coilovers, i would consider it.
car looks nice when its not moving though, lol
great info tyson.
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Tyson
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Aug 6, 2007 10:55 AM





