air conditioner removal?????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MJobe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont do it , youll regret it later!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I completely agree... the 5hp you free up is not worth the discomfort of summer while sitting in traffic.
I completely agree... the 5hp you free up is not worth the discomfort of summer while sitting in traffic.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I completely agree... the 5hp you free up is not worth the discomfort of summer while sitting in traffic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i regret it but i wanted a turbo so thats that
just start ripping AC **** outta there
I completely agree... the 5hp you free up is not worth the discomfort of summer while sitting in traffic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i regret it but i wanted a turbo so thats that
just start ripping AC **** outta there
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I completely agree... the 5hp you free up is not worth the discomfort of summer while sitting in traffic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm trying to find the parts to put mine back in...dont do it cause im having a hell of a time trying to put it back together
I completely agree... the 5hp you free up is not worth the discomfort of summer while sitting in traffic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm trying to find the parts to put mine back in...dont do it cause im having a hell of a time trying to put it back together
get a shop to pull the freon out. then just start pulling bolts loose and taking things out like the compressor, the evaporator under the dash, the condenser next to the radiator and all the lines. thats pretty much all there is to it.
dont do it. i bought mine without the a/c and with a new baby on the way, I wish i had just gotten something with a/c. but, if anyone sees this and is selling a/c components, pm me. i'd loooooove to have it.
keep it
keep it
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsleepercivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don't have freon you have 134a I don't think its bad for the ozone so you could probably just let it out, some will say not but its up to you </TD></TR></TABLE>You ******* redneck. Don't follow this guy's advice and just let that **** out into the atmosphere. There's a reason that it's illegal to just evacuate your refrigerant. Take it to a shop and have them empty it for you, then just go home and start unbolting ****. Then send your compressor to me, along with the lines, since I got rid of mine long ago
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchling37 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You ******* redneck. Don't follow this guy's advice and just let that **** out into the atmosphere. There's a reason that <FONT SIZE="5">it's illegal to just evacuate your refrigerant.</FONT> Take it to a shop and have them empty it for you, then just go home and start unbolting ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
and 134a IS FREON...
x2
and 134a IS FREON...
Well, after proper removal of freon:
1. Remove the 2 bolts connecting the two lines to the dryer
2. Remove the 2 bolts/ screws holding the dryer bracket (then pull the dryer upwards)
3. Remove the bolt connected to condensor (which will be removing one of the a/c lines)
4. Remove the two brackets (one bolt each) that hold on the condensor (then pull condensor up and out)
5. Remove radiator bracket (so the radiator is allowed to move freely)
6. Using two wrenches, undo the long a/c line that runs along the radiator support.
7. Undo the intake box (if you have an OEM intake)
8. Remove Battery
9. Remove Battery rack (held in by 3 bolts; becareful not to strip as most of them are rusty!)
10. Remove the two bolts that are connect the a/c lines to the evaporator (found on the firewall under/ behind the battery rack.)
11. Undo the bracket (one bolt) that holds both a/c lines together (located under the intake box<~ If OEM box is still there.)
12. Use both wrenches again and undo the two lines (Up to this point, everything should be removed besides the compresser, compresser bracket, and a/c belt!)
13. Remove the 4 bolts that connect the compresser to the bracket (4 long bolts.) After doing this, the belt should be loose.
If you want to keep the a/c compressor bracket as another mount you should be done removing the a/c under the hood (besides the belt; which I would cut off b/c it only costs $10.00 for a new one!) If you would like to remove the compresser bracket as-well and you have power steering; follow #14! if no Power Steering, disreguard #14
14. Its easiest if you Remove: Front bumper cover, Driver Side Tire, and Driver Side Inner fender lining.
15. Remove the two bolts holding the rubber mount under the front subframe ( its located down by the wheel!)
16. Remove the 4 long bolts on the compresser bracket
17. Now under the upper radiator support, you'll find a wire harness that is mounted accross the front of you car! After you undo the couple of clips and the one bolt holding a small black box, you have successfully removed all of the a/c stuff under you hood!
I hope this helps?
-Chris
1. Remove the 2 bolts connecting the two lines to the dryer
2. Remove the 2 bolts/ screws holding the dryer bracket (then pull the dryer upwards)
3. Remove the bolt connected to condensor (which will be removing one of the a/c lines)
4. Remove the two brackets (one bolt each) that hold on the condensor (then pull condensor up and out)
5. Remove radiator bracket (so the radiator is allowed to move freely)
6. Using two wrenches, undo the long a/c line that runs along the radiator support.
7. Undo the intake box (if you have an OEM intake)
8. Remove Battery
9. Remove Battery rack (held in by 3 bolts; becareful not to strip as most of them are rusty!)
10. Remove the two bolts that are connect the a/c lines to the evaporator (found on the firewall under/ behind the battery rack.)
11. Undo the bracket (one bolt) that holds both a/c lines together (located under the intake box<~ If OEM box is still there.)
12. Use both wrenches again and undo the two lines (Up to this point, everything should be removed besides the compresser, compresser bracket, and a/c belt!)
13. Remove the 4 bolts that connect the compresser to the bracket (4 long bolts.) After doing this, the belt should be loose.
If you want to keep the a/c compressor bracket as another mount you should be done removing the a/c under the hood (besides the belt; which I would cut off b/c it only costs $10.00 for a new one!) If you would like to remove the compresser bracket as-well and you have power steering; follow #14! if no Power Steering, disreguard #14
14. Its easiest if you Remove: Front bumper cover, Driver Side Tire, and Driver Side Inner fender lining.
15. Remove the two bolts holding the rubber mount under the front subframe ( its located down by the wheel!)
16. Remove the 4 long bolts on the compresser bracket
17. Now under the upper radiator support, you'll find a wire harness that is mounted accross the front of you car! After you undo the couple of clips and the one bolt holding a small black box, you have successfully removed all of the a/c stuff under you hood!
I hope this helps?
-Chris
just wanted to post saying I don't recomend just letting r134a into the air, i just ment it would'nt be the end of the world, also I was wrong that r134a is not freon it is, just not freon-12. which is what i think of when someone says freon. here are some articles from wikipedia which I don't usually use to help clear up the different opinions of its harmful effects
from wiki
1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane, also called simply tetrafluoroethane, R-134a, Genetron 134a, Freon 134a or HFC-134a, is a haloalkane refrigerant without an ozone depletion potential and thermodynamic properties similar to R-12 (dichlorodifluoromethane). It has the formula CH2FCF3, and a boiling point of −26.6 °C (−15.9 °F).
R-134a first appeared in the early 1990s as a replacement for Dichlorodifluoromethane (R-12), which has significant ozone depleting properties. [3] R-134a has been atmospherically modeled for its impact on depleting ozone and as a contributor to global warming. Research suggests that over the past 10 years the concentration of 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane has increased significantly in the Earth atmosphere, with a recent study revealing a doubling in atmospheric concentration between 2001-2004.[4] It has insignificant ozone depletion potential (ozone layer), significant global warming potential (GWP = 1410) and negligible acidification potential (acid rain). 1,1,1,2-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R134a
once again it is not the best thing in the world to do but its definetly not the worst. After reading the wiki it appears they are looking to replace r134a
Also this stuff is released into the air everytime some soccer mom talking on her cell rear ends a civic or any other car.
just wanted to put in my .02, but hey I'm just a stupid ******* redneck
from wiki
1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane, also called simply tetrafluoroethane, R-134a, Genetron 134a, Freon 134a or HFC-134a, is a haloalkane refrigerant without an ozone depletion potential and thermodynamic properties similar to R-12 (dichlorodifluoromethane). It has the formula CH2FCF3, and a boiling point of −26.6 °C (−15.9 °F).
R-134a first appeared in the early 1990s as a replacement for Dichlorodifluoromethane (R-12), which has significant ozone depleting properties. [3] R-134a has been atmospherically modeled for its impact on depleting ozone and as a contributor to global warming. Research suggests that over the past 10 years the concentration of 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane has increased significantly in the Earth atmosphere, with a recent study revealing a doubling in atmospheric concentration between 2001-2004.[4] It has insignificant ozone depletion potential (ozone layer), significant global warming potential (GWP = 1410) and negligible acidification potential (acid rain). 1,1,1,2-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R134a
once again it is not the best thing in the world to do but its definetly not the worst. After reading the wiki it appears they are looking to replace r134a
Also this stuff is released into the air everytime some soccer mom talking on her cell rear ends a civic or any other car.
just wanted to put in my .02, but hey I'm just a stupid ******* redneck
I definetly wish my car had it when I bought it. I roll with the windows down all of the time, and even the highway is a bit harsh with the damn humidity. I would put it back in, but somehow I think I would overlook parts and expletive it up.
ok if u really want to do it..what i do is pull the ac line on either one on ac dryer/receiver and the it will leak.and then take out the ac compressor.there are 4 long bolts to take off.and then take out the ac condensor bracket and pull the condensor out..the ac pipe are easy to remove .just unsrew them and pull them apart.i think u better leave the ac evaporator in its place in case in the future u want your ac back on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ahron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go ahead n do it..its not that bad without ac..juss open ur windows</TD></TR></TABLE>
That works great if you don't mind 100 degree weather wind rushing your face. It was 93 to 95 here today. Do you have any idea what the FEEL was like!?!? The news was all over it.
That works great if you don't mind 100 degree weather wind rushing your face. It was 93 to 95 here today. Do you have any idea what the FEEL was like!?!? The news was all over it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsleepercivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
once again it is not the best thing in the world to do but its definetly not the worst. After reading the wiki it appears they are looking to replace r134a
Also this stuff is released into the air everytime some soccer mom talking on her cell rear ends a civic or any other car.
just wanted to put in my .02, but hey I'm just a stupid ******* redneck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course during a vehicle collision that ruptures the A/C system leaks refrigerant into the atmosphere. but thats not intentional. just do your part and do it right. its not that hard...
and some scientists over in England or something already have a replacement for R134a... just hasn't been tested to be tried and true yet. just an FYI
and shade tree mechanics annoy the hell out of me when it comes to this kind of stuff... just to justify myself
once again it is not the best thing in the world to do but its definetly not the worst. After reading the wiki it appears they are looking to replace r134a
Also this stuff is released into the air everytime some soccer mom talking on her cell rear ends a civic or any other car.
just wanted to put in my .02, but hey I'm just a stupid ******* redneck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course during a vehicle collision that ruptures the A/C system leaks refrigerant into the atmosphere. but thats not intentional. just do your part and do it right. its not that hard...
and some scientists over in England or something already have a replacement for R134a... just hasn't been tested to be tried and true yet. just an FYI

and shade tree mechanics annoy the hell out of me when it comes to this kind of stuff... just to justify myself
everything is out. and i dont regret it. i never used it and its been hot as hell here in lincoln for the past week. thanks guys...appreciate the opinions and whatnot.
later
later
i agree, dont do it...ull regret it. i had a hatch before withouth a/c and when i would go into the car after leaving it in the sun for a long time, i would get some sweat drops on my forehead and woudnt be able to cool off.
now i have a car with a/c and i love it!
now i have a car with a/c and i love it!
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