More pics to come. motor is built strong weisco pistons eagle rods golden eagle block gaurd arp studs walbro fuel pump 450cc inj afc neo car not finished yet







Modified by bpr00civicsi at 8:04 AM 8/4/2007

 

looking good. mounting the turbo that way gives a very tight situation for the intercooloer piping IMO but we have done it a few times and it has turned out pretty good. Are you going to relocate your battery?

Subcribing to see more pictures

 

 

Id suggest a better fuel mananement..

fmu,,walbro fuel pump,450cc injectors and afc is shitty and old shcool,,you need to remove the fmu and afc and get a chipped ecu, look up turboeit.

also how long do you think the turbo,manifold and msd ignition will last?

not trying to negative or anything but ive had experiecne with these parts years ago

 

whats wrong with the msd ignition? i'm only asking because thats what i planned on going with?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1helluvahatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats wrong with the msd ignition? i'm only asking because thats what i planned on going with?</TD></TR></TABLE>


1st of all an aftermarket ignition is not needed unless you plan on going about 10k revs..I used the stock honda ignition in a race car turbo crx ,9000 revs and lots of HP..

2nd ,I had tryed their setup on an older car using the new digital box,blaster coil,and billet distributor,and the motor would always start to break up at aroun 4k revs and up...sent the distributor back to msd there was a problem with it,they fixed it and it ran good for like 2 weeks then started doing the same ****,,sent it back again and got it back this time it ran ok for about 2 months,then the ignition box failed,,just plain broke...it was wired right and out of water or heat areas...these were new parts

if you REALLY want an aftermarket box look into crane cams or mallory..

On a side note I have msd full setup in my mustang carbed big block race car and it's perfect,,,,but if you have a fuel injected car stay away from the stuff.

 

Your block is built for power and you mated it to the chaepest turbo kit going. Why? Should have spent the extra cash and pieced togeather a reliable kit. But hey it's your buck right.

 

Looks really really good, but if you can, I might suggest coming around from the back of the block on the driver's side and near the driver's side shock tower with that oil feed line that way it's nowhere near your exhaust manifold. Kinda like this one I did on my CRX... Just a suggestion



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.speaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id suggest a better fuel mananement..

fmu,,walbro fuel pump,450cc injectors and afc is shitty and old shcool,,you need to remove the fmu and afc and get a chipped ecu, look up turboeit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1

In mine and other people's experience, it will run too lean with the AFC/FMU.

Too much air + not enough fuel = VERY bad things happen regardless of how well the motor is built.

Mine is managed with Crome Pro in a chipped P28... It's pretty good too.

 

I will prob change out the turbo because that is the only way i can run the oil feed line. this turbo was very cheaply made but i am on a tight budget and do they make a chipped ecu for obdo. will this fuel manage set up not work for 8lbs untill i can afford something better or untill i change over to obd1.

 

hmt ftw
get a chipped ecu and get it tuned.
good job

 

I believe you can chip the PM6 ECU because it IS EPROM right? I never played with the ECU in my car too much before swapping to OBD1 and installing a P28. On the second hand, the AFC and FMU are going to suck until you get it tuned JUST right. My Integra had a Vortech 12:1 FMU, Walbro 255LPH, AFC and 390cc injectors and it ran like **** until I got an 8:1 FMU and tuned it properly. Then I scrapped the FMU and the AFC alltogether and got a ZDyne Gold ECU. Getting your ECU chipped will make your car run like it came turboed from the factory.

 

Made piping myself it was the first time ive ever welded anything but it turned out alright. the down pipe that came with turbo kit would not fit with crossmember so i had to make my own

 

you are a gnar star

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are a gnar star</TD></TR></TABLE>


is that canadian?

 

 

Not good dude. You compromised the structural integrity of the front cross-member. That piece is responsible for transferring the forces of the suspension to the body of the car. I would rethink that if I was you. You might want to check into a traction bar.

 

wow many crazy bends you've got there

My car has the turbo mounted the same as you but it's bigger and i have a full size rad. good job on doing everything yourself and as others have said, chuck the fmu and get turboedit at least

 

the car is done it just needs to be painted and interior put back in but i have a problem. the car will not start it rotates and its getting fuel and fire but will not start. the starter is new all parts are new accept harness and ecu could it be a timing issue. i need help before i burn this thing to the ground ive checked everything possinble accept for the timing and ive hade someone tell me it could be the main relay but the fuel pump works and i dont think that it would if the relay was bad. if anyone has any knowledge please help ive had this car sitting for over a year now because i cant get it started.

 

someone asked what radiator i used its a factory 92 00 civic radiator

 

I had a problem like that on my gsr swap. I was getting fuel at the rail but my injectors where not getting a signal from the ecu so fuel would not spray. It ended up being wires swaped on my dizzy.

-Chris

 

Thats one heck of a clean bay man, awesome build!

 

lookin good.. keep it up

 

you definatly just anilated your xmember. and as the piping goes, why didnt you just get piping made? you could still weld it all together, but just get piping pre bent for you.

 

Your crossmember is going to spell out a lot of bad news for you man.

Replace it.

The area to NEVER AT ANY TIME skimp on.......is your suspension.

 

What kind of crappy welder are you working with? is it a flux core gasless mig?
It really looks horrible and im sure it will have many leaks. Just practice and learn how to get a nice bead started and make some new piping. Im no expert myself but even my fist try looked better than that. Also is that galvanized exhaust tubing? If so I think it can produce some real toxic fumes if you weld it. That might be part of your problem as well.

Also if you get someone who can actually weld, have them box in the crossmember where you cut and it should be OK.