wheel strength? Enkei RPF1 vs Black Racing Pro N1
I'm running 17x8 +35mm Enkei RPF1s right now.
I'm putting HPDEs on the side for a while, and the RPF1s are a little plain.
(I had another set and the RPF1s were track only but I sold my other set since the RPF1s weren't selling)
Possibly trading for a set of 17x8 +38 Black Racing Pro N1s.
I'm concerned about wheel strength since in a year or so
(whenever I finish school) I WILL be hitting the tracks again.
(and yes I know of the weight gain with the Pro N1s)
Now I read RealTimeRacing ditched the SSR Comps for RPF1s since they were
"tired of bending the SSRs" but I forget if the source is reliable.
Furthermore, since Enkeis are easier to source, I wouldn't mind too much having to replace one.
Anyone heard of issues fo the Black Racing Pro N1s?
I've seen it on a J's Racing S2000, but I rarely see them used here in the U.S.
so I have no idea if they are are durable as the RPF1s....
Not to mention I had an old set of Pro N1s and I had to settle for 17x7.5 +35mm since any other size would have to be shipped from Japan....so they aren't that easy to source in case I need to replace one.
I'm putting HPDEs on the side for a while, and the RPF1s are a little plain.
(I had another set and the RPF1s were track only but I sold my other set since the RPF1s weren't selling)
Possibly trading for a set of 17x8 +38 Black Racing Pro N1s.
I'm concerned about wheel strength since in a year or so
(whenever I finish school) I WILL be hitting the tracks again.
(and yes I know of the weight gain with the Pro N1s)
Now I read RealTimeRacing ditched the SSR Comps for RPF1s since they were
"tired of bending the SSRs" but I forget if the source is reliable.
Furthermore, since Enkeis are easier to source, I wouldn't mind too much having to replace one.
Anyone heard of issues fo the Black Racing Pro N1s?
I've seen it on a J's Racing S2000, but I rarely see them used here in the U.S.
so I have no idea if they are are durable as the RPF1s....
Not to mention I had an old set of Pro N1s and I had to settle for 17x7.5 +35mm since any other size would have to be shipped from Japan....so they aren't that easy to source in case I need to replace one.
Both are strong enough for hpde use. I dont see any issues with rpf1s as long as you dont off the car too hard. The weight of the black racing wheels has to be huge compared to the enkeis.
15.5lbs 17x8 +35mm and 15.9lbs for each 17x9 +35mm I want to get for the fronts (if I keep the RPF1s of course)
vs.
19lbs for the 17x8 +38mm Black Racing Pro N1s
vs.
19lbs for the 17x8 +38mm Black Racing Pro N1s
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Egeezy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i think the rpf1s look better but i thought this was over wheel strength? </TD></TR></TABLE>
In which case the Rpf1's still win.
In which case the Rpf1's still win.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suprmods »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In which case the Rpf1's still win.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes to me the Pro N1s wins in the looks dept., but I got rid of my old Pro N1s for the RPF1s for the purpose of function at the track (and yes they have served me right).
Track time is put on hold currently so might as well roll on some nice wheels for the time being right?
So I considered my old favs again...but still no word on if they are strong, durable wheels since replacing one would be a PITA.
As of now seems the RPF1s are the winner.
Yes to me the Pro N1s wins in the looks dept., but I got rid of my old Pro N1s for the RPF1s for the purpose of function at the track (and yes they have served me right).
Track time is put on hold currently so might as well roll on some nice wheels for the time being right?
So I considered my old favs again...but still no word on if they are strong, durable wheels since replacing one would be a PITA.
As of now seems the RPF1s are the winner.
since I have this pic uploaded in my p-bucket,

this is the car off of which i was considering trading my enkeis for his Pro N1s.
he is selling this car because he just bought an FG2 sedan Si and already has the interior stripped and caged. he's going to be running RPF1s on it and already has a set, but since it's a track car, he needs an extra set of wheels.

this is the car off of which i was considering trading my enkeis for his Pro N1s.
he is selling this car because he just bought an FG2 sedan Si and already has the interior stripped and caged. he's going to be running RPF1s on it and already has a set, but since it's a track car, he needs an extra set of wheels.
Not to take the thread off-topic, but raise that RSX up a little bit and I think you'll find it'll handle a little better. Unless you have done some major geometry 'fixing', your front roll center is way below ground and your rear shocks, I'm sure, are binding up.
But you've got the right idea with sticking as much rubber as you can under the car on a properly matched-width wheel.
And I don't think realtime stopped using SSRs only because they bent a lot (rumor). There were other factors involved.
But you've got the right idea with sticking as much rubber as you can under the car on a properly matched-width wheel.
And I don't think realtime stopped using SSRs only because they bent a lot (rumor). There were other factors involved.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to take the thread off-topic, but raise that RSX up a little bit and I think you'll find it'll handle a little better. Unless you have done some major geometry 'fixing', your front roll center is way below ground and your rear shocks, I'm sure, are binding up.
But you've got the right idea with sticking as much rubber as you can under the car on a properly matched-width wheel.
And I don't think realtime stopped using SSRs only because they bent a lot (rumor). There were other factors involved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My LCAs pick up points are parallel at this point. (pics w/ Pro N1s the car was a lot lower than it is now). I still do intend on getting RCAs to better the situation.
The car WAS lower before but I felt a huge difference in handling stability once I raised it.
How can you tell if the rears are binding up? The only thing I can complain about the rear was it's high speed twitchiness even w/ toe in in the rear--my DIY diffuser helped in that dept though.
I plan on running wider fronts, be it by hub centered spacers or wider (staggared) wheels. Some guy from Canada has a wider front setup and told me it has only helped him for the better.
As for the SSRs, do you know the reasons then? I mentioned that it was just what I read, and never stated it as fact, but it did make me wonder why they made the switch. Perhaps change in sponsorships?
But you've got the right idea with sticking as much rubber as you can under the car on a properly matched-width wheel.
And I don't think realtime stopped using SSRs only because they bent a lot (rumor). There were other factors involved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My LCAs pick up points are parallel at this point. (pics w/ Pro N1s the car was a lot lower than it is now). I still do intend on getting RCAs to better the situation.
The car WAS lower before but I felt a huge difference in handling stability once I raised it.
How can you tell if the rears are binding up? The only thing I can complain about the rear was it's high speed twitchiness even w/ toe in in the rear--my DIY diffuser helped in that dept though.
I plan on running wider fronts, be it by hub centered spacers or wider (staggared) wheels. Some guy from Canada has a wider front setup and told me it has only helped him for the better.
As for the SSRs, do you know the reasons then? I mentioned that it was just what I read, and never stated it as fact, but it did make me wonder why they made the switch. Perhaps change in sponsorships?
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