what tools are needed to take rotors off (2000 EX Coupe) - havent done that since my 91 honda accord and you have to take everything off to do those.

i did a quick search and came up short on finding one with "tools needed"

 

To take off rotors? Hmm... on my 95 EX I just used a screwdriver, tire iron (to get the rims/tires off), just a 3/8 drive with various MM sockets, and closed end wrenches. Basic tools that are in the garage I would say... nothing special.

 

yea, thats what i figured -- havent done them in so long and last time i did it was on my 91 accord where you have to take the axle nut off and it sucks when you dont have a good enough air compressor

 

Yeah for sure... I really wish I had a compressor and air tools. If I had all the tools needed to do everything to my car I would be set lol. Then all I would need is a beater to drive to work while the project is down.

Zipties will help too so you can hang the calipers up, its not needed though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah for sure... I really wish I had a compressor and air tools. If I had all the tools needed to do everything to my car I would be set lol. Then all I would need is a beater to drive to work while the project is down.

Zipties will help too so you can hang the calipers up, its not needed though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, got a good compressor now -- yea, not sure what im going to order but its either going to be slotted or drilled rotors and hawk pads..so i cant wait

 

From what I have heard, slotted will be your best route. Drilled tend to crack

 

right on, yea i was leaning towards those anyway -- how do drilled AND slotted rotors hold up...same risk of cracking?

 

big f- hammer if your rotors have been on there awhile. like a short handled sledge. and a drill if the screws holding your rotors on are rusted in there good or are stripped. a lot of people have to drill the screws, or heat a little to get them to turn. i'd think on a '00 you'd be okay, but it might be tough to get the rotors off still.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea, got a good compressor now -- yea, not sure what im going to order but its either going to be slotted or drilled rotors and hawk pads..so i cant wait </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? Is this a track car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what tools are needed to take rotors off (2000 EX Coupe) - havent done that since my 91 honda accord and you have to take everything off to do those.

i did a quick search and came up short on finding one with "tools needed"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jus did this on my 99 ex and had zero issues pretty straight forward however you may want to have a hammer drill or screwgun for the little screws holding the rotor on i used my cordless dewalt and it worked just fine. other than that project EJ1 is spot on as far as tools go

 

get a torque driver for those rotor screws

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=864784

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16b-EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Jus did this on my 99 ex and had zero issues pretty straight forward however you may want to have a hammer drill or screwgun for the little screws holding the rotor on i used my cordless dewalt and it worked just fine. other than that project EJ1 is spot on as far as tools go</TD></TR></TABLE>

i never have that luck to just use a drill to remove them.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sk8shorty012 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a torque driver for those rotor screws </TD></TR></TABLE>

best bet. if by any chance the screws strip, start drilling.

 

damn..went to lunch for an hour, come back and theres 23 different replies...thanks guys, appreciate it.

yea, i dont think they'll be too difficult to get off..i had them changed back in the winter..i was fully capable of doing it just had the car in the shop and it needed to get done so i said efff it...but im DEFINITELY not paying to get my brakes done anymore when i can do it myself.

thanks for the links and tips guys

 

axle nuts won't need to come off.
Impact screwdriver + 5lb sledge or hammer for the little screws.
Slotted rotors are a waste... spend your $ on good pads and better tires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miahmouse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">axle nuts won't need to come off.
Impact screwdriver + 5lb sledge or hammer for the little screws.
Slotted rotors are a waste... spend your $ on good pads and better tires. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well im sure slotted is better than stock and ive got BFGoodrich G-Force T/As

 

Unless you've got a lot of upgrades to the brake systems, and use the car for autocross or similar purposes, blanks will work just fine for you. If you want 'em for the bling, whatever, that's fine, but you're not going to notice a difference in daily driving. Except that lighter wallet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MJ0LNIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you've got a lot of upgrades to the brake systems, and use the car for autocross or similar purposes, blanks will work just fine for you. If you want 'em for the bling, whatever, that's fine, but you're not going to notice a difference in daily driving. Except that lighter wallet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i hear ya -- no it isnt for track, its for daily..but mostly for highway (97% of my driving) where i like to drive pretty fast, and not like an a$$hole. but regardless of my style of driving, im putting suspension on very soon (within a week or 2), converting the rear drums to disc (when i put my suspension on) and then a couple of months after im going to be building the head and HOPEFULLY sending a block out to be built..and regardless of having a block sent out i WILL be building the head and putting a full-race turbo kit on.

i care ALOT more about braking and handling then i do about speed


EDIT: and fine if i still wont notice a difference - then fine, illusion of safety ftw?

 

That's cool man, I just wanted to make sure you weren't expecting some incredible performance difference. If YOU like what you're putting on YOUR car, that's what really matters.

 

Don't use drilled/slotted rotors if all you're doing with it is daily driving. Use regular Brembo or OEM blanks.

 

im more or less prepping the car for when i turbo it and build the motor -- im sure there will be a difference though regardless...might night be huge but im sure its more considerable than OEM..but if im wrong so be it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im more or less prepping the car for when i turbo it and build the motor -- im sure there will be a difference though regardless...might night be huge but im sure its more considerable than OEM..but if im wrong so be it</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, there's no difference in daily driving - turbo or not.

They only come into place in autoX or something where you're on the brakes CONSTANTLY. NOT a daily driver. They just cost more and warp faster (due to less surface area making contact w/ the rotor).

Cross drilled rotors:
AutoX = Good
Anything else = Bad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No, there's no difference in daily driving - turbo or not.

They only come into place in autoX or something where you're on the brakes CONSTANTLY. NOT a daily driver. They just cost more and warp faster (due to less surface area making contact w/ the rotor).

Cross drilled rotors:
AutoX = Good
Anything else = Bad</TD></TR></TABLE>


i got ya, and definitely appreciate the info. then what's a good blank..Brembo? will it be any better than OEM. oh and not sure if you saw earlier il be getting Hawk pads and i already have good tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i never have that luck to just use a drill to remove them.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>

GOOD hammer drill will work on newer cars some older ones i've had i just went ahead and drilled them out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Probot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i got ya, and definitely appreciate the info. then what's a good blank..Brembo? will it be any better than OEM. oh and not sure if you saw earlier il be getting Hawk pads and i already have good tires</TD></TR></TABLE>

Brembo blanks are as good as OEM but a lot cheaper. The only thing to keep in mind with higher performance pads is they need to be warm before they're fully effective... e.g Hawk HPS