quick hp out of the D16A
6k will buy u an h22, its cheaper but a slight less bit popular than a k series. IMO buy an H22LSD.
go here ---> http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30019
go here ---> http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30019
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAZARD_1310 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah but I'm looking forward to put a K20 its just that I just wanted a bit more from the engine.
just a cheap way to make hp any ideas?
for like $6,000</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol a way to waste $6k? How is $6k cheap? If you had $6k to throw around, why the hell would you mess with a D series. A K20-R doesn't even cost $6k.....
Buy your choice of DOHC VTEC FWD motor. You will make more power and waste less time.
H22 = $2500
b16= $2200
b18C5= $4500
the list really goes on and on.....I believe the K20 type R is around $5k or a little more....
just a cheap way to make hp any ideas?
for like $6,000</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol a way to waste $6k? How is $6k cheap? If you had $6k to throw around, why the hell would you mess with a D series. A K20-R doesn't even cost $6k.....
Buy your choice of DOHC VTEC FWD motor. You will make more power and waste less time.
H22 = $2500
b16= $2200
b18C5= $4500
the list really goes on and on.....I believe the K20 type R is around $5k or a little more....
[QUOTE=B serious]
lol a way to waste $6k? How is $6k cheap? If you had $6k to throw around, why the hell would you mess with a D series. A K20-R doesn't even cost $6k.....
QUOTE]
x2 ....6k on a d series? ...lol.... lets b serious
lol a way to waste $6k? How is $6k cheap? If you had $6k to throw around, why the hell would you mess with a D series. A K20-R doesn't even cost $6k.....
QUOTE]
x2 ....6k on a d series? ...lol.... lets b serious
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$600 this is what I ment because like in 5 months I'm getting the K20 which is 5,000 or so, but not 6,000 and yeah H22 is alot cheaper and their about the same hp
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAZARD_1310 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$600 this is what I ment because like in 5 months I'm getting the K20 which is 5,000 or so, but not 6,000 and yeah H22 is alot cheaper and their about the same hp
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, we all know k20 swaps cost about $5000
It's the other stuff that adds up.
K-pro - $1000 (only tuning available right now)
Tuner - $500
Mounts - $400
Brackets - $200
Custom header - $400-800 ( A MUST )
Not to mention install, the use of a welder, the hacking of your firewall. What if you don't have tools? That's another $400-500 if you want air tools and an engine hoist.
This brings out total to ~$8000 without including misc parts you might need.
K swaps are NOT cheap.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yes, we all know k20 swaps cost about $5000
It's the other stuff that adds up.
K-pro - $1000 (only tuning available right now)
Tuner - $500
Mounts - $400
Brackets - $200
Custom header - $400-800 ( A MUST )
Not to mention install, the use of a welder, the hacking of your firewall. What if you don't have tools? That's another $400-500 if you want air tools and an engine hoist.
This brings out total to ~$8000 without including misc parts you might need.
K swaps are NOT cheap.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoffer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if the H22 is cheaper and has the same amount of hp, why would you want to spend more money on a motor that puts out about the same of hp?</TD></TR></TABLE>
K20 = much more potential. much...much more.....
K20 = much more potential. much...much more.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
K20 = much more potential. much...much more.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, then I ask myself:
"How fast do I want my street car to be?"
I've worked it out in my head, for $5000 I could easily have an h2b on 7-10lbs of boost on a t3/t4 .60 trim.
That puts me easily into the low 12's. With no internal building or custom work. h22's have a lot of potential. Chris put down 550whp ~400 tq on his turbo h2b. I'll bet the whole setup cost him maybe $8000
How much faster do I need to go in a FWD??
K20 = much more potential. much...much more.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, then I ask myself:
"How fast do I want my street car to be?"
I've worked it out in my head, for $5000 I could easily have an h2b on 7-10lbs of boost on a t3/t4 .60 trim.
That puts me easily into the low 12's. With no internal building or custom work. h22's have a lot of potential. Chris put down 550whp ~400 tq on his turbo h2b. I'll bet the whole setup cost him maybe $8000
How much faster do I need to go in a FWD??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So lemme see if I'm reading this right.
You wanna put 6k into upgrades for this D16A, just so you can swap it out to drop 9k on a K20?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAZARD_1310 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$600 this is what I ment </TD></TR></TABLE>
No your not reading right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes, we all know k20 swaps cost about $5000
It's the other stuff that adds up.
K-pro - $1000 (only tuning available right now)
Tuner - $500
Mounts - $400
Brackets - $200
Custom header - $400-800 ( A MUST )
Not to mention install, the use of a welder, the hacking of your firewall. What if you don't have tools? That's another $400-500 if you want air tools and an engine hoist.
This brings out total to ~$8000 without including misc parts you might need.
K swaps are NOT cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When is a welder needed and when do you have to hack up the firewall??
You wanna put 6k into upgrades for this D16A, just so you can swap it out to drop 9k on a K20?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAZARD_1310 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$600 this is what I ment </TD></TR></TABLE>
No your not reading right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes, we all know k20 swaps cost about $5000
It's the other stuff that adds up.
K-pro - $1000 (only tuning available right now)
Tuner - $500
Mounts - $400
Brackets - $200
Custom header - $400-800 ( A MUST )
Not to mention install, the use of a welder, the hacking of your firewall. What if you don't have tools? That's another $400-500 if you want air tools and an engine hoist.
This brings out total to ~$8000 without including misc parts you might need.
K swaps are NOT cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When is a welder needed and when do you have to hack up the firewall??
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
very true, then I ask myself:
"How fast do I want my street car to be?"
I've worked it out in my head, for $5000 I could easily have an h2b on 7-10lbs of boost on a t3/t4 .60 trim.
That puts me easily into the low 12's. With no internal building or custom work. h22's have a lot of potential. Chris put down 550whp ~400 tq on his turbo h2b. I'll bet the whole setup cost him maybe $8000
How much faster do I need to go in a FWD??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno....i'm into really tractable power. I'm also into road racing. Honestly, I find drag racing to be kinda boring. I mean i have respect for it as a form of motorsports, but it's just not for me.
I would be quite happy with stock H22 power in a hatch. I was happy with bolt on B16 power in my hatches. 550whp would be way too much. Furthermore, FWD turbo cars require ballerina feet to keep from hopelessly wheel spinning or understeering or both around a race track. I'm not saying I couldnt drive a turbo FWD car fast...I just prefer torqueless N/A power. Plus, you usually have factory reliability with bolt on N/A cars.
My S2000 got me to the track (150 miles), passed up most of the cars at the track (including gutted and caged civics), and then I drove home in air conditioned comfort (it was 90+ out) with no reprucussions at all. Plus, I got 36mpg on the highway....25mpg combined hwy, town, and road race
. I can continue to do this over and over and over and over with no reliability problems. I did the same thing with my N/A hatches. lol my SR20'D 240sx was very reliable....but definitely more finnicky. N/A works for me.
The K20 has about 135 or so lb/ft of torque IIRC. I like it because it makes TONS of top end power. The H22 is no slouch...but again...ballerina feet lol.
very true, then I ask myself:
"How fast do I want my street car to be?"
I've worked it out in my head, for $5000 I could easily have an h2b on 7-10lbs of boost on a t3/t4 .60 trim.
That puts me easily into the low 12's. With no internal building or custom work. h22's have a lot of potential. Chris put down 550whp ~400 tq on his turbo h2b. I'll bet the whole setup cost him maybe $8000
How much faster do I need to go in a FWD??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno....i'm into really tractable power. I'm also into road racing. Honestly, I find drag racing to be kinda boring. I mean i have respect for it as a form of motorsports, but it's just not for me.
I would be quite happy with stock H22 power in a hatch. I was happy with bolt on B16 power in my hatches. 550whp would be way too much. Furthermore, FWD turbo cars require ballerina feet to keep from hopelessly wheel spinning or understeering or both around a race track. I'm not saying I couldnt drive a turbo FWD car fast...I just prefer torqueless N/A power. Plus, you usually have factory reliability with bolt on N/A cars.
My S2000 got me to the track (150 miles), passed up most of the cars at the track (including gutted and caged civics), and then I drove home in air conditioned comfort (it was 90+ out) with no reprucussions at all. Plus, I got 36mpg on the highway....25mpg combined hwy, town, and road race
. I can continue to do this over and over and over and over with no reliability problems. I did the same thing with my N/A hatches. lol my SR20'D 240sx was very reliable....but definitely more finnicky. N/A works for me. The K20 has about 135 or so lb/ft of torque IIRC. I like it because it makes TONS of top end power. The H22 is no slouch...but again...ballerina feet lol.
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If you only have 600 - save it.
It's not worth putting into this motor if you have serious plans of a K20 in the near future...just deal with its power (or lack there of) for now.
It's not worth putting into this motor if you have serious plans of a K20 in the near future...just deal with its power (or lack there of) for now.
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I think if you really wanna throw away $600 on a D series....get $600 worth of nitrous set up. After the impending explosion, when you've got your D series jones out.....go get the K or B or H or whatever....
was that just your average dyno though? Just asking because that powerband looks a little drastic. I would definetly prefer the smooth band of an H
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
what stock K20 makes 240hp at the flywheel? How does that only make 168whp then? a stock ITR makes around 168whp.



