Not sure if this is the correct place to put it, but I had a quick question.

I have an exhaust system that is slip-fit, similar to the Buddy Club Spec 2 exhaust. One thing I hate about it is the difficult task to put on and remove the spring clamps when i'm under a car. The exhaust has a interchangeable resonated mid-section and rear section. I change these 2 parts out before and after the race, so it's still bearable on the drive home.

I recently went to a race event and saw a lot of hardcore track cars run long cotter pins to hold the exhaust joints together. I thought about it and figured it would be a great idea to scrap the springs and use cotter pins instead.

I've searched through Home Depot, Lowes, various hardware stores, with no luck on cotter pins of that length. I know there's a place that sells it either online or in store, but i've yet to find it. I've tried searching Yahoo about 6" cotter pins, but came up unsuccessful. If someone knows a source, please let me know, i'd most likely be purchasing these in packs of 50 or more.

This is the exhaust system that i'm running on my 94 Civic hatch

RCrew Racing dual purpose exhaust, available for EG/EK hatches only. 3" piping only. I also sell these to the public, PM me for pricing.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com

6" is also pretty long.. i think my exhaust only needs a 4" cotter pin.. the longer the pin you get, the thicker it gets..

 

Don't use cotter pin. Use safety wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie Hartanto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't use cotter pin. Use safety wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i am using right now.. my bolt holes got flattened at thunderhill, so bolts don't go through there anymore..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie Hartanto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't use cotter pin. Use safety wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got a pic/link of the safety wire?

 

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/safewire.htm

 

Why bother at all? Have you dyno'ed them both? Is there a power difference between the change?
You very well might be loosing 1hp with the change and you need to weigh if it's even worth the time.
If it's an actual race and not an HPDE where you need the 1hp, I can see the reason. If it was me, I'd probably not even bother with the change and just leave the exhaust on if it the change wasn't needed.

Just looking at it from a different angle I guess.

 

You should be using springs, not cotter pins. Any local bike shop will have them.