Ok I'm in the middle of redoing my h22a crx. I have a stock h22a w/lsd in a 91 crx and due to some issues with the shell I am going to an 88 si crx shell. It runs strong and is very fun. Wired it up myself, installed it myself, etc.

Before I go fitting the firewall for the intake again I wanted to get the intake I will need so I will not have to pull the engine when I want to upgrade the upper end.

I need to get an idea of where to go with it and what parts I need to be scrounging to find. I work at a small Honda/Acura shop (not a dealership) so you know the tools/skills I might have access to.

It's more or less a daily driver right now...I want to hit the cones with it next year after its done quite a bit. So road race/DD. No turbo,sc or nos. With the exception of I was thinking of a small shot of nos (50?) just to get the car into vtech if it drops out....I'd guess that would be a pipe dream tho.

Anyways after reading a ton of posts I still have a vague idea of what to get.

Parts I am looking at:
Cams
Intake
TB
header
Hondata ECU and cam gears for tune

For the cams since skunks are more for strip there is really 2 options from what I read:
The jun and the type S. Quite a difference in price. Which one and there others I should look at also? Do I need to figure in springs/retainers too?

Intake and throttle-body: The skunk2 pro seemed to be the highest gain but its longer thus more relief to the firewall which can be done but...euro mani may be within a couple hp and easier to install?

I didn't find much on header there was an older post about one for a civic chassis but the link and google it turned up old or broken links. What are proven performers here? One made for a prelude should not be a problem either.

The tune stuff should take care of business I would hope comments welcome for these.

So I need your input before I spend needless cash on parts that will do little of nothing for me. It's fast now but I need more

Thanks for reading!

 

honestly man, for autocross you will want the best mid-range power you can get.

I would do type-s cams, a SixSigmaRacing header, an s300 for tuning, and leave it at that. Honestly a 95mm crank in the bottom end would be a great idea too but I don't think you would be into dissecting the block right now.

 

Depends on what the crank is going for....its not much time to switch one out if its outta the car. I need to do whatever I'm doing before it goes back in.
Is it a direct bolt in just need bearings and crank?

Mid range on one of these engines is ? 5200 to 6k rpm? or before vtech?

I guess I was sorta looking to get a few more rpms outta it also...as I know the higher you can make power the more power you get....its a air pump after all.

 

What is the upper rpm power range on the s cams and the jun cams?

 

without porting the head and big cams you're gonna have some trouble making power over 8k rpms. The stock rev range on the h22 is plenty for road racing and the powerband is great for dd.

The type s cams should make power until about 7300 or so and then fall off. The JUN cams are apples to oranges with the type s cams, they're good for over 8500rpm with other stuff done.

An h23 crank is cheap, you would need h23 rods too. Then its just bearings and in she goes. Pretty simple, keep in mind it puts the pistons higher up and increases the compression ratio, which is good, but it also leaves you less clearance for cams, if it was me, I'd stick with type s cams for that reason.

When you have it tuned you can lower the vtec point just a little if you need to, but the h22 is pretty good on midrange anywhere from about 3500 to 5k. Then vtec takes over.

 

isn't a H22 crx going to be a bit front heavy for autocrossing? I mean I know the preludes are even front heavy but they have suspension all tuned for that?

Also if your going to be autocrossing it I highly recommend getting a P72 chipped so you can control the IAB's I have a P28 so I keep them open all the time, it didn't totally destory my low end but it's noticable. But after 3K the car pulls strong all the way into vtec and to about 7600rpms(I have stock cams atm). SO while you could get away with having the IABs always open may as well keep the low end, chip a P72 and lower the IAB point to about 3-3.2K and you'll pick up a lot of midrange from that.

 

Hmm I actually have a h23 with a bad head here...theres no machine work needed? How much of a compression bump are we talking...91 octane ok?
Pop the h22 pistions on the h23 rods and install with new h22 main bearings?

I would think you would want to keep the car in vtec as much as possible while going around the track so thats why I was thinking of a higher rpm range to keep the car making power. And it would have loads more pull on the street/strip to keep up with the kids out there

I don't think it will be too heavy...with a good suspension setup and a feel of the car I think it will turn well. I don't have a real suspension on it now but it really dosen't feel that bad.
I have the stock ecu that came with the engine (i'll have to look and see what one it is) with the IABs hooked up you can actually feel them open in this car. When vtec hits it throws you back in the seat even. Last prelude I drove you couldn't really feel the vtec hit it was just a smooth pull all the way up.

I am thinking of getting a diffrent intake tho to go along with cams later...skunk2 looks like the way to go? Or just stick with the stock one? A few hundred for a couple hp might not be worth it.

 

you can feel when the IAB's make power on my BB6, I can't say you feel them open because they are always open but you can definetly tell when they start to make power and "should" open.

You really shouldn't "feel" VTEC if you do then the VTEC crossover point is too high(if it's a stock ECU it' too high) and should be lowered for maximum horsepower gains. Ideally you are correct you would want to be in VTEC all the time around the track but you would wanted to keep a good midrange just incase you fall out of VTEC in a long turn or something happens and you have to slow down because you can't pass someone.

for 91 octane I wouldn't recommend going over 11:1 CR 11.5:1 if you have a really awesome tune but then you playing with fire and losing out of any time of room for error.

It's not that the car would be too heavy over all but ideally you would want a 50/50 wieght ratio so the cars gonna be front heavy with a H22 in a CRX, but you can get a suspension set up to help with that, you be very percise when your picking your spring rates, your probably going to need to get a custom spring rate tein set up or something similar.

Really the Type S cams should be fine for an autocross, if you upgrade your valve train(which you should even with the type S cams) then you'll make plenty of power and not have it be as peaky as with a really high profile cam. If your changing your intake I would change to a CAI, blake(98Vtec) has had some very intresting findings in the whole intake area for the H22's and shown short rams to not really net any gains. The verdict is still out on how the BpI flow stack helping a CAI since noone has really tested it versus a stock set up but I can't see it hurting and I'm happy with mine so that that for what it's worth.

 

if you are mainly focusing on autocross i would definately consider another chassis option. i have built and driven a few h series crx's and i wouldnt own one myself because of the handling delima. they are exremely front heavy w/ a very short wheelbase, off ramps on the hwy are VERY dangerous believe me. i dont know how anyone could autocross one?

if you are going through w/ it i would find the smallest intake possible (euro-r) and also keep the clutch/tranny completely hydro. s cams would be your best bet for midrange by far, you may even want to look into cat cams as they are used/designed by honda/acura road race teams (REALTIME).

oh yeah, also dont forget to stick a few of your buddys in the rear for extra weight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCxMagus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for 91 octane I wouldn't recommend going over 11:1 CR 11.5:1 if you have a really awesome tune but then you playing with fire and losing out of any time of room for error.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

lets not speculate here, you and I both know those numbers are hearsay bs.

OP: check out the faq for info on the h23 vtec, check a thread i made for the CR and all that info.

 

The autox I would be doing is cone driving since this will be a DD/street car also. The track here in KC is really for the big race only cars I think I've not been to it yet tho. And actually this is a DD/street car first, not the only car I have to drive but I am sure once its done it will get plenty of use.

My current h22 crx that I am driving right now doesn't feel that bad really. And I don't have a good custom coilover set for it yet. Yes its a little heavy on the steering but I have yet to get it to not go where I'm pointing it. I have a favorite cloverleaf and I keep going another mph or 2 trying to get the tires to at least whine at me but nothing yet. Just leery of it just popping the back end around sometime without warning which I have seen them do at an asphalt track here. Ive got around 9k on the swap so far but and it felt a little heavy until I got a little better springs and shocks...its super stiff now but I am just biding my time until coilovers.

By changing intake I was referring to the actual intake at the head not the cold air as I have to have a custom cold air because of the swap.
I am going from a 91 hf to a 88 si chassis and need to get the intake so I can do the proper clearance before I paint it. If the stock one is good enough I'll stick with that but if there is a better one that would be something I need to get before I put the engine back in for good.

Yea I sorta have already went through with the swap , I didn't keep the hydro setup tho...I got the hasport mounts and I'm using the cable-hydro adaptor. I have no problems with it at all...and I'm running a much stiffer pressure plate and 6 puck. Word to the wise if you want it to take off silky smooth every time don't get a 6 puck . I'm used to it now tho just gotta take off a little harder so it don't chatter.

All I really need for the h23 lower end switch is a bottom line of yes or no ,91 oct with the h23 crank/rods, will be ok with that gas. If I am pushing it to pinging then the extra hp vs expensive fuel will pretty much be a null choice heh.

Where do the cat cams sit in the lineup? If type S cams are at the lower end with more torque than hp up the the skunks with more hp than torque what kind of power are you seeing from them.

Thanks for reading and replying so far you guys have been tons of help