http://www.racingworks.com/ape...r.htm

I've seen a couple ludes around on here with the 1st version of the AFC
has anyone tried out the AFC NEO?

my reason for asking, is because my h22a with recently swapped into my lude
but i'm having alot of problems with vtec engaging....
a couple people around here are sayin i should buy one of these controllers.

what are the advantages to having one?

 

also, do you know is the 2 controllers are the same size?
if so..the controller should fit right where the little holder is next to the cigarette lighter?

 

Its the same size as a vafc, and if you go on ebay you can get one for 270 shipped instead of 360 plus shipping!

 

if you are having vtec problems then you need to figure that out first before trying to hack it to make it work.

 

yeah agreed here, my first guess would be low oil or a clogged solenoid screen!! On the other hand, mine works fine, but since I run an H23 tranny, I want to keep in VTEC as I shift at the track from 1-2 better so I am adding a neo in the next week, I am planning to just roughly tune the vtec crossover for smoother power since I have I/H/E, and I have a lamo auto-meter a/f from when I bought the car, so I may try a tiny street tune off of what that shows me.

 

if that A/F auto meter gauge is hooked up to your stock primary 02 sensor or anything thats is not a wideband sensor then it;'s crappy and will not help you tune correctly at all for power/performance sake.

stock narrowbands are only accurate worth a crap in the stoichiometric area(14.7) other then that you can only tell if your running rich or lean from that point. weither your 14.3 or 11.0 you won't be able to tell from that gauge though.

if you want to street tune get a wideb and, you wouldn't try to unscrew a screw with a hammer would you? I hope not you would get the right tool a screwdriver, same applies to tuning.

beside you can get a chipped ECU and have it tuned and actually make some power if you just want to get something to change VTEC engagement get a buddy spec controller or something, dont need all those wires screwing with signals if all your trying to do is change VTEC engagement.

the only advantage that any piggyback has is you get to keep your OBD2 comupter and you dont have to take 5 minutes to swap it out when you get smogged.

I would say they are easier to tune but I really dont consider what they do "tuning" so

 

srry i never replied back to this, i had it in my watched topics but no one posted anything on it so i deleted it and then found it again..


so really the vafc is a kind of waste?
i have a p13. if i got a chipped ecu would i get like a p28 or is that just integeras and stuff??..(not sure)

the NEO's are so cool though..lol

if i got a chipped ecu could i just plug it up and go (plug and play?) or would i have to go and find someone to tune it before i plug it in?

(sorry if this is confusing)

 

FAQ's

ECU choice guide for prelude
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=567799

a basemap will start the car for the drive over to the tuner, dont install the ECU until you ready to drive it over to get tuned.

 

Thanks for the ideas/knowledge DC!! I already had the Neo on the way, and did it with a Boomslang harness so its easy to reverse. I am going to leave fuel alone for now, just got it all set right and adjusted VTEC points a bit, I had some real issues there since I run the H23 tranny, so it made worlds of difference in that respect! I do plan to have someone dyno tune it when I have the chance, as long as I stay N/A here, but i may go turbo and when I put an all new built block and such in it will get Hondata or AEM, just like the idea of AEM since I have seen the great power and reliable tunes Brent at PFI here can do for a H22 with it!

 

so could i just get the VAFC NEO and just adjust my vtec rpms and not have to go to a dyno...thats all i really care about right now since im gonna have the h22a motor/h23a1 trans. and i'll drop out of vtec going into 2nd, could i just set the vtec for now and then the fuel and stuff later on when i have $$

 

adjusting your vtec, in effect, adjusts your fuel as well. If you change the crossover, you need to change the fueling. and you wont be able to do that without a wideband and/or dyno.

 

Technically yes, if our cars were tuned that highly stock, but they leave a big margin of error on the rich side, so by dropping vtec down from 5150 to 4800, it is fine with the base fueling, or if you want you can set the neo to do the vtec unmatch and add fuel in that area that has been changed from oem ecu parameters.

But your question in a nutshell Shaylude, is yes you can do that, it is exactly what I have done, and it runs great!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Technically yes, if our cars were tuned that highly stock, but they leave a big margin of error on the rich side, so by dropping vtec down from 5150 to 4800, it is fine with the base fueling, or if you want you can set the neo to do the vtec unmatch and add fuel in that area that has been changed from oem ecu parameters.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

have you seen this via a wideband?

 

No I havent, but since I still read rich on my autometer through that range at full throttle, and I am not pinging at all, even under load uphill in the mtns here at 5800 Ft, I think I am ok. Yes I know I am bad bad person and will go to hell for not running to the dyno for every little thing I touch on the car, but oh well!

 

autometer is a narrow band gauge which = trash, unaccurate, light show for a display of afr.

 

so i can drop the vtec engagement point down just enough for it to stay in vtec and not have to tune?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaylude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i can drop the vtec engagement point down just enough for it to stay in vtec and not have to tune?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

believe what you want. I am telling you not to mess with it until you KNOW where it needs to be and KNOW what fuel changes to make.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No I havent, but since I still read rich on my autometer through that range at full throttle, and I am not pinging at all, even under load uphill in the mtns here at 5800 Ft, I think I am ok. </TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ this kind of thinking is backyard, wrong and an utter guess that the car runs better.

I have made 150+ dyno runs with my motor. I know the effects, not think.

 

Yeah I know the Autometer isnt worth much of anything, it was on the car when I bought it, and left it since I like it more than holes on paneling. From my understanding though, it does show a narrow range of if you are rich or lean off stoich at the very least, which would lead me to believe, if it shows rich at full throttle, that I am at least not a lean point where I could be doing damage to my engine. Is this correct or not?
I do understand that by not dyno tuning I am not getting the fullest potential out of my setup, but that isn't quite my goal yet, I am working to it. I also still have P/S and balance shafts since I haven't hit the point to extract every last H.P. out of my engine. And I never said my engine ran better from the Neo, just that I liked VTEC engaging lower and it felt to be a much smoother transition from low-hi, and will stay in VTEC from my 1-2 shift now.
I wish I had the time and money to devote to my car to make 150+ dyno passes man, I would love to have that much information! But I can't, so I do what I can for now. Just curious though, have you seen what a/f looks like on a stock H22 when the vtec point is lowered? I am curious as to how it ends up on a wideband.