Here's my question: is it possible to get 210 reliable wheel-horsepower into a '98 Integra GS-R without going forced induction? Is there any advantage to this at all?

I want to get a JRSC, but I'm considering NA instead... Not that there's anything wrong with the JRSC, but since I like a "factory-style" ride (basically, I want everything to seem like it belonged there) and a good, reliable commuter (wouldn't want to tarnish Honda/Acura's image, would I? ), I was wondering if NA might be a better idea. On top of that, I don't need a huge amount of horsepower--I'll probably be more than happy with 210 whp. Then maybe later if I get bored with that, then I could go forced-induction.

Thanks!

 

http://www.importreview.com/d_2.0.html

Here is a list of dyno charts, some with more HP then you are asking for, read through them and take a look at there mods, that should give you an idea, there are more then a few 2.0's making 210 on pump gas

 

its gonna cost you allot more money to go all motor. and if you wanna go FI after all your motor work to get you to 210hp your gonna have to take out your cams (too much blow by) your high comp pistons and some other parts. your better off either goin jrsc if you want more power for a daily driver without spending lots of money. goodluck

 

Does NA mean no N2O? N2O is ideal for the setup u are talking about. Contrary to popular belief, when used right, its a great way for reliable power only when u need it.

 

http://www.importreview.com/d_1.8.html

Check out the gsr bored out to 84mm putting out 216.5hp.


[Modified by RK, 1:56 AM 6/11/2002]

 

whats with the huge dip at 5.5?

 

Yeah I'm pretty much anti-N2O. Not that it's bad, but I like permanent horsepower. That goes with my "factory-style" philosophy.

BTW, what exactly do you do in an NA setup anyway? I mean, these are the only parts I could find (except I don't have a Hondata ECU on there):

AEM Cold-Air Intake - Silver; $198.81; Inlinefour.com
Comptech Power Pro Exhaust - s/s Cat-back; $518.36; AutoCarParts.com
Comptech 4-2-1 Header - s/s, TIG welded; $473.36; AutoCarParts.com
Mugen Two-Layer Head Gasket (+ .4 compression); $129.00; Kingmotorsports.com
AEM Tru-Time Cam Gears - Silver; $211.96; Inlinefour.com
Spoon Sports Balanced JDM Integra Type-R Pistons; $360.00; Inlinefour.com
Comptech High Volume/High Pressure Fuel Pump; $134.95; Comptechusa.com
Comptech Fuel Pressure Regulator; $279.95; Comptechusa.com

I mean, what else is there? Performance cams? I'm not too sure about those... Maybe an MSD...? I think (dyno) tuning is probably the main cost...

Thanks.


[Modified by RobertMcDonald, 10:10 AM 6/11/2002]

 

your not gonna make 210 hp without some upgraded cams.

 

Oh, and I forgot the Spoon 70mm Throttle Body on Inlinefour.com for $552.

 

add some
Jun 3 cams around $900
Jun Titanium retainers $300
Jun Titaniums Springs forgot how much...
Hondata-$800
Port flow head,- not sure on price
Skunk2 IM- forgot...
good 3" exhaust... - forgot the price
CTR pistons- 185

sorry I've had these many bers
so maybe I'll come back and make a better answer tommorow


[Modified by Kelvin96GSR, 2:26 AM 6/11/2002]


[Modified by Kelvin96GSR, 12:03 PM 6/11/2002]

 

buy my Toda B's for 675 right now........

that will help you.

it's a major ingredient for the 200+ recipe

 

haha toda b's
I think I should update my sig I got lots of new shiet on my car
Drunkenpost

 

cams compression and tuning are what make power n/a followed by air flow through the engine.

 

You can't just buy random bolton parts and expect them to fit your performance goals. Research is your friend here.

The Comptech catback is a 2 1/2" diamater. Great quality exhaust itself, but 2 1/2" is going to become a bottleneck once you pass 180whp.. which is 30whp less than your goal.

You want at least 60mm if not 2.5" . A qualty Hybrid header like Hytech or SMSP have the advantages of both 4-2-1 and 4-1 designs. Along with a matched highflow cat (carsound), you should be set as far as exhaust.

As said you are going to need cams, and probably increase the displacement. Read through tuans articles on http://www.team-integra.net for more info..

 

for real??? a comptech exhaust it 2.5 the whole way through? ive been lookin for a 2.5" pre built (non custom) exhaust.

 

yea a good 3" exhaust...on a NA vehicle?! friggin ricer

 

okay i thought 2.5" would be just fine...

 

2.25-2.5 for NA

 

p&p would help quite a bit for all-motor. quite expensive though.
just go FI. you will love it.
and also 210 whp is not a lot of hp? hmmm...

 

Isnt the Greddy EVO 2.5"?

 

No, its 2.25"

 

N/A means no nitrous..or forced induction ... doesnt mean you cant use nitrous on a beefed up all motor ride (:

its going to take Heavy modifacation to break 200hp@wheels all motor ..

my b18b is near the 200hp mark @ wheels but i have higher compression oversized pistons .. cams .. ect.. takes a good deal of money ...

a month ago .. a brand new Civic EX spraying nitrous (no idea of the size of shot) .. spanked my $5k motor... of course the civic was considerably lighter ... but still.. you will feel cheated ... and will slowly .. BUT SURELY be turning to the Dark Side (:

 

instead of listing parts, (this has been discussed many many times before, do a search) it will cost around 4500.00 dollars done right...speed ain't cheap. 210 is not easily attained on 1.8 liters.

 

greddy evo is 2.36

 

i thought it was 2.25...anyways ditch the formula you got now..that will net you nowhere near 210 whp. 2.5 inch header,cat, and catback. toda b cams and cam gears. high compression pistons, ported and polished head w/ valve job, and skunk2 IM. plus LOTs of dyno tuning...an aem ems would help greatly in the tuning department....you should reach around 200 whp w/ that set up. i would go with either erric's racing or portflow head, w/ valvesprings and retainers, to handle the higher rpms. this is the basic set up and will cost $$$$$$. increasing displacement would also be very ideal.