The car: 1993 Civic Si w/JDM B16A

I just got the thing and theres not much wrong with. well, nothing mechanical anyway. At any rate, theres little to no info on the 2 PO, so im basically in the dark about it. the only real stuff that kind of concerns me is that theres a Greddy turbo timer mounted and functional in the dash. which of course rouses the suspicion that it was a FI car at some point. oh well. If anyone thinks that the possible turbo could have been a strain, id like to hear the info.

the point of the post is maintenance: I have read a little about the maintenance on Hondas on this site, and the most consistent answer i get is do the timing belt, that way you know how much life you have on it. In addition to that, my plan is to do a seafoam, replace the fuel filter, spark plugs, oil, oil filter, and the head gasket. if any one can think of any other stuff that needs to be done or if there are flaws in the plan, id love to hear about them. Thanks! BTW, the oil is going to be royal purple, and the filter HAMP synergy, if there are any good/bad experiences, id like to hear those as well.

 

This should get you started. It's a schedule for stock 6th gens, but it should be basically the same.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2053807

 

bump. thanks for the info so far though. very helpful. id like to see a website that has all timing belt components in one spot for one price, or a list of everything that i will need to replace while doing said belt. thanks doods!

 

bump

 

on ebay a belt and tensioner runs about 35 bucks. compare that to about 80 bucks from auto parts stores.

 

use a factory belt, oh please dont cheap out on it.

 

yeah, cause a guy using royal purple and a hamp filter is probably gonna "cheap out" on a timing belt...


Honestly there are some good retailers on ebay who sell complete packages made of honda factory parts, just hit the search on ebay and you'll see em.

the person you bought it from didn't mention it being turbo'd?

 

ok, so my questions in response:

1) So, the ebay stuff is okay? if so does anyone know of any reputable vendors?
2) im no mechanic, but the one i go to says he likes to do everything under the timing belt case while its off. which includes? in other words, if you guys could give me the premium shopping list for maintenace, id appreciate it.
3) again, if there are any suggestions or sound advice, id love to have it. thanks all!

 

also, what timing belt do i need to buy? my motor is the JDM B16.... so?

 

you can get a timing belt kit from this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1720782 I got one and have no complaints its all oem

 

Thanks! bump for more info

 

morning bump.

 

I did a 'tune up' on my 3sgte, and on the timing belt side, i changed this:

-timing belt
-cam seals (x2)
-front main seal
-tensioner
-#1 idler
-water pump/gasket
-checked alternator
-alternator belt
-valve cover gasket
-plugs/wires

some people suggested oil pump since its on that side too..but I decided I don't need to. That one is up to you.

I also changed the rear main seal while upgrading my clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Heinz57 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a 'tune up' on my 3sgte, and on the timing belt side, i changed this:

-timing belt
-cam seals (x2)
-front main seal
-tensioner
-#1 idler
-water pump/gasket
-checked alternator
-alternator belt
-valve cover gasket
-plugs/wires

some people suggested oil pump since its on that side too..but I decided I don't need to. That one is up to you.

I also changed the rear main seal while upgrading my clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would definitely cover all bases, heh.

The traditional/basic timing belt maintenance is belt/tensioner/water pump.

 

well, with the seafoam, ive read a where a lot of folks have found a leak that didnt know about after doing it. so should front and rear seals be done along with everything?

 

definately front seals, because you'll have the belt off anyway. You need to take the crank pulley off to change the front seal..so why not do it while you're under there..front seal won't cost much. Good luck getting the crank pulley off..not sure how hard it is on honda's since I haven't changed mine..but on the toyota, it was a pain..

the rear seal requires the flywheel to be off..which means a whole bunch of other things..bleh..I'll leave that one up to you..maybe wait until you do a clutch upgrade..

cam seals will be easily accesible when the timing belt is off...sooo yea..change those too!

good luck

 

awesome. so heres what i've got:

Seafoam
replace:
-spark plugs
-oil
-oil filter
-fuel filter
-timing belt
-cam seals (x2)
-front main seal
-tensioner
-#1 idler
-water pump/gasket
-check alternator
-alternator belt
-valve cover gasket
-plugs/wires

sound good to everyone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Convert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome. so heres what i've got:

Seafoam
replace:
-spark plugs
-oil
-oil filter
-fuel filter
-timing belt
-cam seals (x2)
-front main seal
-tensioner
-#1 idler
-water pump/gasket
-check alternator
-alternator belt
-valve cover gasket
-plugs/wires

sound good to everyone?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check your CV joints and front bearings too.

 

alright. thanks guys. hopefully nothings gonna break after this for at least a year.

 

I've owned two EG's, a '92 Si and a '94 Si and they were both great cars that I really enjoyed. The only negative was constantly worrying about them getting stolen.

 

one last thing its a quick check and cheep if needed pull the distributor cap off and make sure that you don't have any oil inside the distributor if you do you need to replace the distributor oil seal its about $5. plus shipping

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one last thing its a quick check and cheep if needed pull the distributor cap off and make sure that you don't have any oil inside the distributor if you do you need to replace the distributor oil seal its about $5. plus shipping </TD></TR></TABLE>


I agree. You'll also and to make sure there aren't any little metal shavings or carbon in there. Clean that real well.

 

done. thanks guys.
hopefully this will do wonders to keep jenny running smooth.

 

To those that did a timing belt on their honda, aren't there 2 idler pulleys?

When I did my Toyota, I only changed the #1 idler pulley (the one that the tensioner pushes against), but there was another idler puller which I should have changed since I was changing all that other crap..but I don't think it will be a huge problem.

You might want to consider changing both idler pulleys - but the best bet would be giving them a spin and check for noise/smoothness and decide from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Heinz57 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To those that did a timing belt on their honda, aren't there 2 idler pulleys?

When I did my Toyota, I only changed the #1 idler pulley (the one that the tensioner pushes against), but there was another idler puller which I should have changed since I was changing all that other crap..but I don't think it will be a huge problem.

You might want to consider changing both idler pulleys - but the best bet would be giving them a spin and check for noise/smoothness and decide from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is only one tensioner pulley on D's and B's